"yum cha" news and stories

A while back I experienced a dim sum epiphany in the form of pear-shaped dumplings at a spot in Manhattan's Chinatown. I'm pleased to report that the same place, Jing Fong, has provided yet another surprise.

When my yum cha buddies and I saw this dish rolling by,  we wiped the drool off our chins and waved down the lady. At first glance, it looked like a large open-faced dumpling. Digging into it revealed that it was a taro cake flecked with bits of meat (perhaps Chinese ham) crowned with a mixture of  ground meat, bits of lop chong, pieces of mushroom and other goodies. As with all good taro cake, the interplay of the sweet, soft taro with the salty, savory ingredients was spot on. But this version was exquisite: a taro cake fit for a king. 

The thing that really whet my appetite about dim sum when I first tried it was an umistakable sense of being immersed in a neverending cavalcade of cart-borne deliciousness. Alas, as with all passions, this newfound chowlust abated.

That's not to say that I didn't still have my favorites after the honeymoon was over. I like har gao, with their crystalline wrappers bursting with shrimp, as much as the next guy. And I always try to save room for some creamy dou fu fa, spiked with a liberal splash of sorghum syrup to sweeten the nutty, fresh hot tofu. I'm also always on the lookout for such special dishes as fried whole shrimp showered in slivers of garlic and jalapenos. But for what seems like forever I haven't snatched up anything really new with my chopsticks.

Until last week. My longtime yum cha buddy and I were three-quarters through a meal at Manhattan's Jing Fong when a cart rolled by bearing the above delight. At first glance we were sure that this dainty pear-shaped  trio must be some type of dessert. I can't say whether we thought this because we were nearly stuffed or because they were fruit-shaped.

As you've no doubt guessed by now, there was nothing fruity about these pears. Encased within the golden crust was a savory mixture of chopped porky goodness. Oh, about those stems, they're stems all right – cilantro stems.

Sarah J. Gim already mentioned that one of the food traditions for Chinese New Year is to have dumplings, which are meant to bring good fortune in the next year. She didn't mention that they also make a delicious snack or a quick lunch and, with some rice and vegetables, can make an exceptionally tasty dinner. Soft, fluffy "bao" are steamed buns that are typically served as dim sum or yum cha in Chinese restaurants and they'll be on my Chinese New Year menu. You can make them yourself, using any filling you wish, or pick up a few at your local asian market. Good luck and a good lunch? How can you go wrong!

[Photo by Nicole Weston]