"white anchovies" news and stories

I love Spanish tapas, those small dishes of food served by the dozen as you sip wine or hard cider and talk the night away. Of all the types I have had, hot or cold, meat, fish or vegetable; my favorite are the marinated white anchovies called boquerones. Now these are not the typical salty and fishy anchovies the people love or hate to have on pizza. They are a totally different kettle of fish.

Fans of ceviche, or anything vinegary or with olive oil will love them. Of all the brands I have tried, my favorite is Benfumat from Barcelona. The delicate, small white anchovies harvested in the Bay of Biscay between Spain and France are carefully filleted and headed and tailed. Then they are flattened by heavy stones to mature and firm up the flesh. Then the anchovies are rinsed in brine, rolled up inside cotton cloth, and centrifuged to remove any excess water before being packed in the finest Spanish oil and white wine vinegar. Simple ingredients: white anchovies, oil, vinegar, and salt. But the taste is anything but simple.

Some boquerones are way too salty or have too much vinegar and not enough olive oil. Benfumat's have the perfect balance between the three. Typically boquerones are served draped over a thin slice of baguette or rolled around an olive. They are also great laid on top of a salad of fresh tomatoes or greens, and are a wonderful accompaniment to any dish that could use a bit of tangy, salty goodness. A small 15-30 gram serving is plenty and full of healthy omega-3's, but light on calories with only 25-50. I pan sauteed some fat, sweet, local sea scallops the other day; and then curled a boquerone on top of each and finished them in a very hot oven for a few minutes. The combination of sweet, caramelized scallops and the slightly tart boquerones went together fabulously.