"vermontcheese" news and stories

From firm and earthy Cabot clothbound cheddar to Consider Bardwell Farm's sweet and creamy Mettowee, Vermont's cheeses run the gamut of flavors and textures. So, in preparation for the Vermont Cheesemaker's Festival, which takes place on July 25, we've put together a list of five must-visit cheesemakers. Since there are dozens of Vermont cheesemakers (exactly 41 are members of the Vermont Cheese Council), we've selected the ones that are the most innovative and worth the journey.

Consider Bardwell Farm, West Pawlet, Vt.
Located in the bucolic hills of the Champlain Valley, near the N.Y. border, this farm, which dates back to the 19th century, has gone through many transformations. It started off as a cheesemaking co-op in 1864 by Consider Stebbins Bardwell. Today it's run by Angela Miller, Russell Glover, Chris Gray and Peter Dixon and boasts some of the state's most distinct cheeses – the oozy washed-rind Dorset with an scent reminiscent of a stinky French Livarot and Manchester with its unforgettable rustic earthy taste. Make sure to call ahead of time to arrange a visit. Note that the farm is open to cheese enthusiasts only on weekends.

More after the jump...

When it comes to American cheese, shapes and sizes can be deceiving. Smaller cheeses that come in the shape of a pyramid or disc (think Valençay or Selles-sur-Cher) are often associated with goat's milk cheeses. However, there are several American cheesemakers, like Cowgirl Creamery, that are defying these expectations by producing an array of cow's milk cheeses, including Inverness, in the shape and size of French chèvres.

Sarabande, a raw cow's milk cheese from Dancing Cow Farm in Vermont, is an astonishing example of this innovation. In a pyramid shape reminiscent of a Valençay, it shares more similarities with Taleggio and Langres.

"We have low production pastured cows that don't give a lot of milk, say 30 pounds a day average, but they give a very rich, flavorful milk," says Karen Getz, who co-owns Dancing Cow Farm with her husband, Steve. "We make cheese every day from warm, straight out of the cow milk [...], because milk is very fragile and starting with fresh milk each day allows the flavors of the pastures to shine."

The days when only Maytag Blue represented American blue cheese are long gone. From sweet and peppery Bayley Hazen Blue to the mineral-like taste of Tilston Point and the fruity pear flavor of Rogue River Blue, the options for American blue cheeses have dramatically increased. And, now, there's a new distinctly rustic blue cheese to add to this growing list -- Vaquero from Willow Hill Farm in Vermont.

Unlike other American blue cheeses, Vaquero has a creamy taste with a fascinating and delicious crispy dark chocolate flavor. "I would have to say it's the milk combination," explains Willow Smart, who co-owns the farm along with her husband, Dave Phinney. "We milk both sheep and cows, hence the yellow-ness from the cow's milk. We milk Brown Swiss and Dutch Belted cows, which always have very yellow milk as the beta-Carotene [red-orange pigment] from the pastures comes through in their rich milk."

Vaquero's rustic-looking rind, pale-yellow paste, and thick buttery consistency also make it stand apart from other blues. The natural exterior of the wheel appears similar to that of a Tomme de Savoie. Indeed, the cheese has the same brown Tomme de Savoie mold. Aged for three to five months, the molds, flavor and spreadable texture develop in caves that Willow and Dave built back in 1999.

Though we've been covering goat's milk cheeses for the past couple of weeks, today I'd like to concentrate on an American blue raw cow's milk cheese from northern Vermont called Boucher Blue.

This sweet and creamy fromage has an earthy flavor reminiscent of the famous French Fourme d'Ambert. What sets it slightly apart is a unique taste of chestnuts and vanilla and a long finish on the palate. While Boucher Blue is certainly tasty eaten plain, it would also make a great addition to a fresh spring salad, such as one with watercress, prosciutto and hazelnuts.

Boucher Blue is handmade by brothers Daniel and Denis of the renowned Québecois Boucher family, whose 1,000 acre farm boasts 120 Holstein and French Normandy cows. The brothers have deep roots in the region: Their family has been cultivating land for nearly 400 years. Long ago they tilled the land by the Lake Champlain and St. Lawrence River valleys in what was once New France (now Quebec). Their ancestor Pierre Boucher was celebrated after the French and Indian War for making peace with the Iroquois.

Fnd their cheese at farmer's markets such as the Burlington Farmers' Market or purchase it from Saxelby Cheesemongers here in New York.

Last week, after writing a post about Tarentais, I thought about another cheese with a similar name: Tarentaise (the "s" is pronounced). These two cheeses can not be any more different. Tarentaise is a cow's milk cheese made at Thistle Hill Farm in Pomfret, Vermont. John and Janine Putnam were inspired by the mountain-style cheeses, such as Beaufort, that are produced in the Tarentaise valley in France.

Tarentaise is an incredibly rich buttery cheese with hints of grass, apricots, and walnuts. While this alpine-style cheese pays tribute to its European ancestors, it stands apart with its unique smooth taste and complex finish. This exceptional American cheese is perfect eaten on its own. Or, you can pair it with a chestnut spread to bring out its nuttiness. Another condiment to pair with Tarentaise is apricot jam which will magnify the fruitiness of the cheese.

Visit Thistle Hill Farm!
Tarentaise is hand crafted by the Putnams on their farm. Even the process of moving the curds is done by hand, using a large cheese cloth, rather than commerical pumps that often harm the curds. Before entering the aging room, Tarentaise goes through a series of molds and turnings. Finally, it enters the aging facility where it matures for 4 to 6 months. The painstaking attention to detail can be tasted in the exquisite end result. To bear witness to this process, visit Thistle Hill Farm in North Pomfret, Vermont. Call them first at (802) 457-9349.