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Gretchen Roberts has passed the introductory course at the Court of Master Sommeliers and is studying for her sommelier certification this fall. "Great wine is made in the vineyard, not in the winery." The expression may have derived from top winemakers modestly claiming to be simple helpers taking advantage of Mother Nature's hard work. Still, a winemaker makes plenty of decisions after the harvest that affect the ultimate taste and character of the wine. Chardonnay is a great example of a vino whose character is formed through decisions made in the winery.
Chardonnay-making is rather like a Choose Your Own Adventure book. Start with the fruit; where you go from there can take you to many alternate endings. A couple of decisions that drastically alter the finished product:
- Stainless steel or oak: Chardonnay fermented in stainless steel will maintain a certain liveliness. Fermented in oak barrels, however, it takes on a lush, ripe character with notes of oak and vanilla spices.
- Malolactic fermentation: Malolactic fermentation converts harsher malic acid into softer, buttery lactic acid (think milk, cream and butter). Chard that hasn't been put through this process can taste bright, fresh and wildly acidic.
