"turin" news and stories

With the Olympics drawing to a close, why not take the opportunity this weekend to try a classic recipe from Turin. Probably the most famous food item (apart from it's gianduja chocolates) is bagna cauda [BAHN-ya COW-da], a sort of oil-based fondue. The name is a derivation of bagna calda which means "hot bath."

There are plenty of recipes for bagna cauda on the web, but I decided to IM my Italian aunt for a loose recipe, and she happily obliged. Gotta love technology. (Errors in translation are mine.) Read a few other recipes to get an idea for measurements as she doesn't include any.


Bagna Cauda

4-6 whole heads of garlic
anchovies under salt (160 grams), washed, remove bones
milk
extra virgin olive oil
cream or butter

Vegetables for dipping: artichokes, Jerusalem artichokes, peppers, endive, cipolline onions, leeks, carrots, fennel, celery, radishes, cabbage

The wonderful food that Turin, Italy is famous for is not making its way onto the plates of the Olympic athletes. In fact, there have been numerous complaints about the food, including accusations of food poisoning from the Canadian curling team. Athletes from all over the world, including America and Lithuania, are saying that they "expected more from an Italian kitchen" and wonder "how can you screw up pasta?" Because the Olympic Village is not in a central location, with athletes spread over many villages, the food is not all being prepared by the same kitchen staff. Some athletes are fortunate enough to have a personal or team nutritionist who will prepare all their meals, while others can only look forward to the time that they can spend in Turin itself, sampling the city's non-Olympic offerings.

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I've always been attracted to Caffarel's yellow wrapper and stylized Italian logo. But it wasn't until the Olympics began and I learned all about the mysteries of gianduia, the hazelnut-flavored chocolate native to Olympics host Torino, that my attraction turned into a purchase. Last week I brought home the beautifully-wrapped, gold-accented chocolate bar.

It was a few days before I tasted it, and when I did, I was truly in a new cioccolato heaven. From this day forward, Caffarel will be my chocolate of choice when I just need something incomparably creamy, rich, melt-in-mouth-able.

You know how most chocolate bars settle on one extreme of the creaminess scale, either too soft and sticky, or so hard they hurt your teeth when you break off a chunk? Caffarel's gianduia bar is so soft and delicate, it's already melting when it hits your tongue; but yet the bar is solid, easily broken into chunks by hand. And still, no chocolatey fingerprints. The hazelnut taste is perfect, just the essence of flavoring, not tipping the balance to bitter, as so many hazelnut-flavored chocolates do. I give Caffarel the chocolate gold medal. My bar was $3.89 (definitely not cheap) at Pastaworks. Hopefully I'll be able to afford it more than once every four years.

A bicerin is the traditional drink of Turin, Italy. It has been made there since the mid 1700s, essentially unchanged over the past nearly 250 years. It is a mixture of milk and chocolate (locally produced in Italy), coffee and whipped cream. As you can see in the photo of David Lebovitz's lovely rendition of the drink, it is possible to see all three layers, the bottom layer being rich with milk and chocolate. As you might imagine, it is quite rich and it should be served in a small glass (called a bicerin, hence the name). His recipe makes it possible for you to whip up a batch of this decadent drink at home, to enjoy as you cheer on your favorite athletes at the Winter Olympic Games.

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Today, the Dining & Wine section of the New York Times website featured a link to restaurant critic Frank Bruni's new blog,  "Diner's Journal." According to the introductory post, Bruni hopes the blog will be a light and accessible way to give readers a greater insight into the experiences and trials of a restaurant critic. So far, the tone isn't exactly conversational, but it looks to be a good way for readers to learn about restaurants that aren't yet ready to be reviewed.

Other articles today:

• The evolution of the bottled water industry.
• Mark Bittman does veggie burgers.
  
• A return to dining in New Orleans.
• Eric Asimov gives some background on brunello di Montalcino.
• Tasting the chocolates of Turin.
• Florence Fabricant talks brown butter.

[Photo: NYT]