"tomme" news and stories

French cheese lovers tend to associate tomme-style cheese with its circular round shape, earthy gray-brown rind. Other distinguishing characteristics include its pale white semi-soft to firm paste and intensely nutty taste. Despite all the similarities, there's tons of variety when it comes to the type of milk and the overall flavor profile.

From France's renowned cow's milk Tomme de Savoie to Twig Farm's goat's milk tomme, the consistency and taste of this cheese can vary rather drastically -- with varying notes of rich hazelnut and mild citrus flavor and a texture from firm to crumbly. Given all these renditions, what exactly makes a tomme a tomme?

According to Michael Lee, cheesemaker and co-owner (with Emily Sunderman) of Twig Farm in West Cornwall, VT, "There is a basic recipe and process that is common to all of these cheeses. The differences come from decisions made from within the same matrix." So, what exactly does this cheesy matrix entail?

My obsession with sheep's milk cheeses, in particular Brebis Pardou, from the Midi-Pyrénées region of France led me to a delicious buttery raw goat's milk cheese handmade in the town of Loubière: Tomme de l'Ariège. I was at Murray's in the West Village of NY, and my palate was acheing for something delicate and creamy but with a pungent aroma. Tomme de l'Ariège exceeded this criteria!

The clerk at Murray's explained that this Tomme is actually based on a recipe for Reblochon, however, unlike Reblochon the wheels of Tomme de l'Ariège are aged for several months in damp, dark caves. The wheels are washed in a brine that results in a bright orange rind contrasting with its pristine white interior. The cheese's unique characteristics attest to the fact that it's produced on a small scale. It's a must have on any cheese plate.

Tomme de l'Ariège exudes a sweet taste of hazelnuts and conjures up bucolic images of fresh pasture. It's best eaten after sitting out at room temperature for about an hour. The insides will become runny and its goaty aroma much more pronounced. I suggest pairing the cheese with a variety of beers. It's delicious with grapes, pears, and apples. Murray's sells this exquisite tomme in their shop and online for $29.99 per pound. Currently, I haven't succeeded at finding it anywhere else.