Steakhouses, as a rule, all used to market themselves the same way. The place was presented as a sanctum sanctorum, an all-male preserve where men could drink whiskey, eat charred beef, and revel in their temporary liberation from the tyranny of women.
But times have changed; and the New York steakhouse has changed with them, giving yesteryear's cultural baggage the heave-ho. A few classic exemplars of the old school persist, and are rightly celebrated as temples of meat-worship; but now they compete with a new generation of steakhouses, all of whom bring a new, metrosexual take to the most primal of all restaurant concepts.
Typical of this breed is Quality Meats, a tarted-up meatery from the corporate group that brought you 78 different Smith and Wollensky restaurants, not to mention Cite, Maloney and Porcelli, and the Post House.
Bon Appetit continues its 50th Anniversary. This month:
While it's absolutely adorable to don a frilly apron, pack a lunch box for the kids and bake
casseroles all day, I'd much rather put on a fur stole and go '50s retro-Rat-Pack-style. That means dining out at an
all-American steakhouse and twirling the night away into the bottom of my martini glass at a glamorous lounge. 










