I am a big fan of cooking in a slow cooker. I mentioned in this post that I have four slow cookers in graduated sizes for when I want to cook a little bit or a lot. I love that I can pop something into the pot and set it to cook overnight while I sleep (I often do this with chicken stock or a turkey breast).
I love this little cookbook called Crockery Cookery (there's something very pleasant about saying that out loud), written by Mable Hoffman. It was first published in 1975, when the slow cooking trend first started to sweep the nation. It contains recipes, tips, tricks and a guide to all slow cookers that were available in 1975 (not particularly helpful these days, but an interesting blast from the past).
My copy has a receipt in it from a Salvation Army Thrift Shop from 1983, marking the recipe for Turkey Tetrazzini. It uses canned mushrooms, but other than that calls for fresh veggies and good ingredients, showing me that not all recipes from the seventies are a wasteland of processed ingredients and horrible chemicals.
Though there are a a lot of different things for Super Bowl parties, there are a few that will, without a doubt, make an appearance at every Super Bowl party this weekend -- beer to drink, tortilla chips and salsa for snacking, and as a "main" dish, some sort of chili. If you're hosting a Super Bowl party and chili isn't on your menu, why are you depriving your guests?!?!
There are a lot of recipes out there for chili - heck, we have at least a dozen here on Slashfood - and a lot of opinions about what makes the "best" chili. Ground beef or steak? Beans or no beans? Tomato-base or beef stock? The reality is that chili is more of a technique combined with any permutation of meat and vegetables, rather than a specific recipe. Last weekend, I made a Steak Chili in my brand new slow cooker, and though I had several recipes nearby as reference, I ended up doing everything based on my personal tastes. Here's the step-by-step of what I did, along with suggestions and explanations so you can make your own.
After your chili has cooked for a good 1½ to 2 hours, it's ready to eat, but if you've waited that long, what's another day?!?! Letting chili cool down overnight, or at least for several hours and then re-heating it just before serving somehow makes the chili taste about five thousand times better, if that's possible. For a party, that's incredibly convenient, since you can make the chili at least one day in advance.
For the Super Bowl, serve the chili straight from the slow cooker. The slow cooker may not be the most stylish thing to leave out on the buffet table, but it will ensure that the chili stays warm as it sits out all afternoon (or evening) long. Throw a ladle into the chili and let your guests help themselves. If you have large handled mugs (that you might use for cappuccino or soup), use those for serving. Having a handle will decrease the chance that mingling guests will spill the chili on your immaculate floor.
Chili alone is good, but with "toppings," it's even better. Shredded cheese, sour cream, chopped red onions and scallions, and diced avocado or guacamole are good things to set out as a "bar" to put on top of chili.
You may also want to serve chili with some sort of bread. The natural choice here is cornbread, but any thick, chewy bread is good, as are tortilla chips.
The only vegetables you really need for chili are onions and garlic for flavor, jalapenos for heat, and of course canned tomatoes to create the "gravy." However, I know that people like to add other vegetables either because they like particular vegetables, or they're trying to sneak some nutrition into their friends' and family's diets. Naturally, if you're making a vegetarian chili, additional vegetables like celery, carrots, and bell pepper make sense, but in a beef chili, why would you add carrots? Why?! You aren't fooling anyone.
Adding Vegetables to the Chili To the oil that's left in the pan you used to brown the meat, add 2 chopped medium onions, ½ to 1 whole head of smashed garlic cloves (depending on how much garlic you like), and 5-7 chopped fresh jalapenos. If you are adding other chopped vegetables, add them here, too. Cook for about 10 minutes to soften, then add to the beef in the crock.
Add 1 28 oz. can of whole tomatoes with the juice, crushing the tomatoes with your hands as you add them to the pot. Also add 3 cups of beef stock.
When it comes to the meat for your chili, you have a lot of options, and even options within options. Chili can be made with beef, poultry, or it can eschew meat altogether and go vegetarian. Turkey, chicken and vegetarian chilis are all fine, but I am a beef girl when it comes to chili.
A lot of people use ground beef for chili, which produces a very uniform, somewhat "fine" chili, but since ground beef cooks rather quickly, there is less of a reason to use a slow cooker. I prefer my chili a bit chunkier, so I buy a large piece of any of the less expensive, slightly tougher cuts of beef. Does that make me a cheapskate?!?! Maybe a little, but the reality is that the tougher cuts of beef are flavorful and hold up well during the slow cooking process that allows flavors to develop.
Preparing the Meat for Chili: I bought a 2 lb rump roast, partly because I love the word "rump," but mostly because that's a good cut to use for chili. Rinse the meat, pat dry, and cut into ½" cubes. Dredge the cubes in about ½ c flour that has been seasoned with salt and pepper and shake off as much of the excess flour as you can.
Heat 2-3 Tbsp canola oil over medium high heat and brown the coated beef on all sides. Set aside.
Most slow cooker cookbooks tend to focus on "home-style" foods, like chilis, stews and other dishes of the sort that your grandmother might have made at some point. The homey feel that slow cooked foods evoke is is one of the things that makes them so wonderful, but it also tends to make slow cooker recipes sound similar after a while. The Gourmet Slow Cooker: Simple and Sophisticated Meals from Around the World doesn't cover those same old recipes and, instead, aims for the more unusual recipes that are not often included in grandmothers' recipe collections. The chapters in the book are divided up by country and each section has sides, mains and even desserts. The American chapter will have some standards, but India includes Eggplant and Pea Curry, Neopolitan Truffle Risotto is from Italy and the Mexican chapter has lots of chilies and moles. As you might suspect from the names of the dishes, some are slightly more involved than the average slow cooker stew, but even the hardest will be easier than the recipe would be if prepared in another way. After all, the slow cooker does a lot of the work for you.
All of these recipes are great choices for winter entertaining, when you're looking for something hot, satisfying and elegant.
Bones: Recipes, History, and Lore is a book about meat. It's not about "skinless"-this and "ultra-lean"-that, but about the real heart, soul and marrow of meat. It is meat done right, according to author Jennifer McLagan, and she wants to help reintroduce the idea that meat does come on bones, not in shrink-wrapped foam packages. She cooks all kinds of meat, from fish to veal, and she takes her time doing it. There are no shortcuts in the instructions, though they are clear, precise and quite easy to follow, because McLagan's philosophy is that the time that it takes makes the resulting dish even more worthwhile. There are stocks, soups and other dishes that have a foundation with meat, too.
In addition to the recipes, there is excellent photography, serving suggestions and the history behind the meats. Readers will learn what part of the animal the particular cut (or bone) comes from, why it is prepared in a certain way and, when they taste the dishes, why doing so can be very satisfying.
According to the author, we have "traded flavor for health and efficiency" when many home cooks switched to boneless meats and filets. Of course, there can be a balance, especially where health is concerned. After all, the author probably wants us to stick around long enough to enjoy her recipes - and if you take the time to make them, it certainly sounds like you will.
Carnitas is a Mexican dish of slow cooked pork that is then shredded into little bits. Traditionally, the tougher and cheaper pieces of meat are the ones used for this recipe because the slow cooking allows the meat to get to the point where it melts in your mouth. Once the meat has been cooked and shredded, it is browned in a bit of butter or oil. This version of carnitas, from Jared at Alaska Cooks, includes spices, butter, brown sugar and chipotle peppers with the pork shoulder. It also has some Coca-Cola in the simmering liquid, which adds and extra bit of sweetness to the meat. Some cooks and barbecuers say that it helps to tenderize the meat, too. Looks good, doesn't it? So do the rest of the dishes on Alaska Cooks, so check them out when you have a chance!
Sous vide is a cooking method that involves packing food, usually meat, in a vacuum-sealed bag and
poaching it in water for a long time over low temperatures. It was first developed in France in the
late 1960s and it is a popular technique with chefs at high end restaurants because the food prepared in this way
is more tender, juicy and flavorful than as it is in some other methods of cooking.
The water temperatures used to cook the meat are often much lower than boiling, though, which raised concerns from the New York City Health Department. The department feels that the risk of
bacteria breeding in sous vide food is very high, especially if the bag is improperly sealed. Though there have not, as
yet, been any health problems tied to sous vide cooking, the health department has imposed fines on chefs using the
method until a city health code that specifically governs the use of the technique has been drawn up. Chefs have been
forced to dispose of thousands of dollars of vacuum packed food, both cooked and uncooked, by city inspectors and have
complained that not only is the city's move unwarranted, but that they were not given any notice of the change in
policy prior to their regular inspections.
The meat was sealed, added
to the soften onions and garlic, a teaspoon of paprika and plenty of beef stock. Then a low heat as the whole simmered.
I am not sure the potatoes benefited from par-boiling before being added to the dish but that is what I did. Around 30
minutes before the end of the three hours the potatoes were added to the stew and left to cook just as slowly but
without a lid to the dish.
With a real spicy kick the chorizo bled colour into the stew, the flavours mingling with the paprika and
other ingredients. A hearty dusting of chopped parsley added a freshness to the whole but the spice edge from the
chorizo took a heavy hammer to the complexities of the accompanying wine; which was a shame, but the succulent steak
component shone in a near perfect match. Three hours simmering and less than forty minutes to eat; at least the house
hummed with delicious aromas and the guests went home sedated and mellow.
I'm a firm believer in the beauty of the braise. Not familiar? A braise is any
time you first brown your ingredients in hot oil (or, sauté), and then add liquid to finish the cooking. You can
finish your braise on the stovetop, in the oven, or in a slow cooker - but most braises are finished in the same place
they were started. And braises are often the definition of s.l.o.w. slow.
Many slow cooker recipes call for a good browning of the meats and/or veggies first, but most of them hasten to
mention that the browning could be skipped. I think this is close to vital (and Sarah Gim mentions that it does, after all, speed up the
cooking process). What's your take: to brown, or not to brown.
During the work week though, and even on weekends when time is taken up with "life errands" like picking
up dry cleaning, slow-cooking isn't always realistic. At least, not the kind of slow-cooking that truly takes four to
five hours. Besides, I don't have a slow-cooking crock pot and my tiny apartment kitchen couldn't hold another small
appliance.
But not to despair! There are way to *ahem* cheat the slow cooking a little. It probably won't be as fast and perky
as Rachael Ray or Sandra Lee, but a few tips can still get you a beautifully braised, buttery beefy stew without having
to sic your can opener on Dinty Moore. These aren't novel new ideas in cooking, just reminders.
Who doesn't love baked beans? I always have a couple of cans in my
cupboard, ready to mix with weiners for a retro protein-packed snack. When I planned for slow cooking day, baked beans
was my first thought. Nothing is more quintessentially American or (let's be honest here) easier.
I've tried to make baked beans before, and gotten frustrated with the long cooking time. Not this weekend. I
started composing my soul of slow cooking
post and got into a zen cooking space. I looked up at least five recipes, and they were all almost exactly the same -
all started with two cups of navy beans (or, variously, "Great Northern" or "Michigan Navy" beans,
which are almost the same thing), 5-6 cups of water, onion, bacon or salt pork, molasses, ginger, mustard and
salt.
There were variations, of course; a little Worchestershire Sauce here, a little ketchup there. I ended up using the
recipe for Boston Baked Beans from The Gourmet Slow
Cooker, by Lynn Alley. It turned out fabulously, and I have only one piece of advice: cook it for a really,
really long time! I cooked mine in an oven, for at least eight hours. It was delicious and so flavorful.
I think that ribs are best when they are falling apart and so tender that you almost need a spoon to eat them. I
know that many people prefer ribs that have some chew to them, but I never liked the feeling that I was gnawing at a
bone. For me, meltingly soft meat is the way to go. A slow cooker is the perfect way to
achieve this outstanding texture because it keeps the meat perfectly juicy as it cooks at a low heat. All you need to do
is buy some baby back ribs, cut each slab in half to make sure they fit in your cooker and peel off the silverskin
(silvery white connective tissue on the underside of the ribs). Then, simply layer the ribs with barbeque
sauce and set the timer. I use 3-4 pounds of baby back ribs in my 5-quart slow cooker, though it could easily hold
more. Refer to your manual for the exact capacity. I cook them on high for about 5 hours or low for 6-8. Towards the
end of the cooking time, it is best to test them with a fork just to be certain the meat is done.
You can use any barbeque sauce for a recipe like this one. The homemade sauce recipe below has a nice tang to
it and it goes very well with pork. I like to use dry spices in barbeque sauces because they’re always on hand
and they flavors meld well as the sauce cooks.
"I want a
crock pot!" says the woman who's checking me out at the thrift store, eagerly. Later, I'm shopping for a slow
cooking recipe book and am surprised to see five shelves in Powell's Books for Cooks devoted to the subject.
"Do you have a slow cooker?" asks the clerk after I make my selection. I tell her I've just purchased one.
"I need one, too!"
Today, it seems, everyone's into slow cooking. I head to my favorite gourmet market and there, next to the
fabulously shiny stainless steel cookware and in front of the organic local produce is a sexy All-Clad slow cooker. I
try to find a price tag, and when I can't, figure it's a sign from the heavens: stick with your thrift store
purchase, sweetie. I have to go to the supermarket for a few things, and there's an end-of-aisle display of much
lower-priced slow cookers.
When we set out to do a theme day around slow
cooking, few of us even could define it. Now, we're all hooked, as Crock Pots bubble in our kitchens and
beans bake for hours and hours at 300 degrees. For the record: slow cooking is any method of cookery that combines low
heat and long periods of time, usually without requiring much attention. Often, slow-cooked meals are begun a day
or two before they're meant to be eaten.
Why is slow cooking so popular, now, a good thirty-five years since it became vogue with the introduction of the Crock Pot? It's because it
brings back the soul to cooking.