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San Francisco Chronicle Food section in 60 seconds: Salad, Seafood, and Springtime

San Francisco Chronicle Food section in 60 seconds: Michael Mina, margaritas, and more cocktails

San Francisco Chronicle in 60 Seconds: Babes, Beets, and Big Meatballs

kids at bay area restaurants
Increasingly, the under-10 crowd is showing up at Bay area restaurants, and the restaurants happily accommodate.

The Baja meets the Bayou with fish tacos and accompanying fiery salsas, beets get an undeserved bad rap, the Roving Feast goes to Berlin for Potato Salad and Big Meatballs, and a Hae-muhl Pah-jun, Korean seafood "pancake," pairs well with wine.

The liquor of the moment is absinthe, with recipes for Sacred Heart, Sazerac, and Death at Dusk.

Abalone: SF Chronicle Food & Dining section in 60 seconds

abalone
Ten years ago, a ban on commercially harvested abalone was put into place, but today, eco-friendly farmers are able to cultivate abalone. Olivia Wu provides a 10-minute video on how to handle fresh abalone, and there are recipes from Bay Area restaurants: Koi Palace's Abalone Poached in Rich Sauce, Manresa's Abalone, Meuniere Style.

Other recipes this week: Sake-Steamed Tai Snapper, Tofu Miso Soup, Hearty Chickpea & Broccoli Rabe Soup and Lamb Chops with Turkish Carrots & Yogurt Sauce.

Out on the dining circuit, The Musical Offering Cafe combines food, music, and books in Berkeley. Karola Saekel gives it an overal two-and-a-half stars.

From tipping to service charges

Michael Bauer, the restaurant critic for the SF Chronicle, brought up the subject of service charges at restaurants on his blog. Tipping, whether you like it or not, is still the standard in the US and diners are used to it. Up until recently, the only time that a service charge was included on the bill in lieu of a tip was when you had a very large party out for dinner. Some restaurants, notably higher-end places like Chez Panisse and Per Se, have flat-rate service charged tacked on to the bill regardless of how many diners are in your party, streamlining the process for those footing the bill and giving the restaurant staff an ample enough fee that some of that charge can be diverted to "tip" the back of the house staff.

More recently, in a strange hybrid between the two styles of gratuity payment, at least one restaurant has begun to add on a service charge to cover the back of the house, while expecting customers to tip the waitstaff. Incanto, in San Francisco, is the example that Bauer pointed to. He noticed that they added a 5% service charge to his bill with no explanation. When he asked his waiter, he was told that it was supposed to be in addition to the normal tip, although some customers deducted it from what they would usually leave. Clearly, having both additional fees wasn't working out well for the front of the house staff even if it did benefit those in the kitchen.

As Bauer points out, it sounds like we may be reaching a turning point in this country when it comes to tipping. He says he is "beginning to edge closer to the opinion that maybe an automatic service charge should be applied, or that prices of the menu should fully compensate the staff." It certainly sounds like a reasonable solution.

Chocolate chip scent banned from bus shelters!

Even though it sounded like a promising idea, activists for the "scent sensitive" have gotten the chocolate chip scent banned from bus shelters after only one day! These complainers - oops, I mean activists - claimed that the smells could potentially trigger an asthma attack, although there were no cases of such things occurring. CBS Outdoor, the company that put up the scented strips for the California Milk Processor Board's campaign, said that the strips used no chemicals and that there was no way that they could have directly triggered any allergic reactions, although they are complying with the city's request to take them down.

Honestly, if you can't handle the scent of chocolate chip cookies, how on earth can you handle taking a bus in a big city? Do these activists actually walk around San Francisco? It's not the cleanest-smelling city in the world. Besides, in just about any city the scent of chocolate chip cookies would be an improvement over exhaust, sewer and trash fumes. Perhaps they found the scent to be too appealing and were actually worried that cookie cravings would cause people to hyperventilate in excitement. Or maybe they were worried that their own cravings would make them blow their diets the next time they walked by a bakery.

Famously Flat: San Francisco Chronicle Food & Dining section in 60 seconds

mediterranean flatbreads
Flatbreads are the most consumed bread in the world, whether eaten plain, or as part of a dish: Thyme Bread (Manaqish bil-Za'atar), Moroccan Flatbread (R'ghayef), Turkish Meat Bread (Etli Ekmek), Yemeni Fried Bread (M'lawwah), and Yemeni Cilantro Chutney (Z'houg).

The Working Cook keeps within the Mediterranean theme with Chicken and Eggplant Kofte with Bulgur, then does an Asian Spicy Shrimp with Lemon-Peanut Kale & Rice. The Moveable Feast also does Asian with a Mu Shu Vegetable Wrap, and Vijay Bist, owner of Amber India restaurants in Mountain View and Santana Row, shares his recipe for Konkan Steamed Mussels.

There's a whole slew of new restaurant openings around the Bay.

Twenty years of chronicling food: San Francisco Chronincle Food & Dining section in 60 seconds

san franicsco chronicle 20th anniversaryIn most cases, they'd be barely legal, but with 20 years in food journalism, the Chronicle has got some street cred. To celebrate, they select their favorite recipe from each year, along with a runner up:

1986

1987

1988

1989

1990

Continue reading Twenty years of chronicling food: San Francisco Chronincle Food & Dining section in 60 seconds

Sonoma Dreams and Syrah: San Francisco Chronicle Wine section in 60 seconds

valdez family winesIf this isn't an American dream story, I don't know what is. Ulises Valdez left the tiny village of Los Cuachalalates, Mexico, for Mexico City at the age of 10 to work for his uncle. After moving around from place to place, he eventually crossed the California border and made his way to Sonoma County's Dry Creek Valley. There, he worked the fields, eventually gained citizenship, struck up a partnership, bought out his partner, and in July of this year, Valdez Family Wines launched.

The Chronicle's Wine Selection of the Week is Napa Valley Syrah. Of the 21 wines they tasted, three received three out of four stars (***):
2004 HdV Carneros Syrah, 2004 Sand T Cellars Brookside Vineyard Napa Valley Syrah, and 2004 Novy Page-Nord Vineyard Napa Valley Syrah.

To go with that Syrah, there is a recipe for Sausage and Lamb Bolognese. The Cheese Course is Comte,a
A cow's milk cheese from the Jura mountains of eastern France, near the Swiss border, which a former Bay Area chef hand picks from the aging caves in France.

Almonds, Ramadan, and Re-visting Restaurants: San Francisco Chronicle Food and Dining section in 60 seconds

fresh pear and almond dessert pizza
It is time for the almond harvest in California, and the Chronicle has a few recipes: Almond-Breaded Chicken Cutlet with Capers and Lemon, Dried Apricot & Almond Bars, Almond Granola Clusters, Fresh Pear & Almond Dessert Pizza, and Ancho-Almond Mole Sauce.

The holy month of Ramadan begins Saturday, in which Muslims fast every day from sunrise to sunset, then break their fasts each evening with a meal called iftaar. A couple of recipes for the iftaar table: Fruit Chaat and Badam Dood (Milk with Almond Meal).

The Working Cooks recommends braising as a foolproof way to cook fish and provides a recipe for Braised White Fish & Vegetables in Lemongrass Coconut Milk. Also fast and fresh are Chipotle Beef Tacos. To go meatless, try portobello mushrooms in a sandwich.

Three-month-old Xyclo in Oakland gets two stars (**) for its "modern meets Mekong" Vetnamese-style cuisine. Two stars (**) also awarded to Katia's: A Russian Tea Room. Michael Bauer re-visits Mecca, and says that "We shouldn't have to suffer for good food, but in the case of Mecca, it might just be worth it." He gives it three stars (***).

Beef or no-beef: San Francisco Chronicle Food and Dining section in 60 seconds

grass fed cows
There's a new trend in food-buying: getting beef directly from the rancher. Recipes are for: Marinated Grass-Fed Flank Steak, Sally Gale's Olive-Crusted Rib Roast, and Chileno Valley Beef Stew.

Apple recipes in preparation for Rosh Hashana: Currant- & Ginger-Stuffed Baked Apples with Honey Creme Fraiche, Butter Lettuce, Apple, Endive, Walnut & Cheddar Salad with Honey Vinaigrette, and Grilled Flatbread with Melted Brie & Honeyed Apple Compote.

Olivia Wu's Shanghai Diary has Drunken Soybeans.

In the news, THomas Keller's temporary Ad Hoc is open, Cindy Pawlcyn does fish at Go Fish, and Gary Danko tops the Zagat survey. Pan-Asian Red Ginger in El Granada and Oakland's country French JoJo both receive two and a half stars (**½). Mescolanza in the Richmond District gets two stars (**).

Burritos, Bottarga, and Breakfast: San Francisco Chronicle Food & Dining in 60 seconds

burritos - San Francisco Chronicle

Bill Addison visits 85 taquerias in 10 weeks and picks the best of the burrito bunch. He also awards 1½ stars to Moki's Sushi and Pacific Grill (*½). Royal Cafe in Albany gets two stars (**) for their breakfast, lunch, and kitsch. Also getting two stars (**) is Baker Street Bistro.

Bottarga, cured roe sacs of gray mullet or tuna, are a finishing touch to Salad of Zolfini Beans, Dry-Farmed Tomatoes, Celery & Bottarga. The Roving Feast adds accents to Tomato-Ginger Concasse and Pears Poached with Lemongrass & Lime.The Working Cook turns the day upsaide down with Goat Cheese Pizza with Peppers & Artichokes and Corn Griddle Cakes with Smoked Salmon, Tomatoes & Cream for dinner.

Tasting rooms: San Francisco Chronicle Wine section in 60 seconds

wine tasting room

The San Francisco Chronicle Wine section has officially moved from Thursday to Friday.

Wine tasting isn't exactly a cheap pastime, but still, California wineries drew more visitors than Major League Baseball in 2003. Because tasting rooms are a critical source of income for many wineries, they're stepping up wtih creating fancier, more elaborate :destinations." If you're planning to go tastin gin the Wine Country, the Chronicle aslo has tips for how to do it like a VIP, and ratings/reviews of tasting rooms. This week, the ylook at Coppola and Parducci, both of which get three out of four stars (***).

The Wine Selection of the week is South Central Coast Zinfandels, which "could convert Zinfandel naysayers by demonstrating that high alcohol and fruit can be present but not overshadow the wines' other charms."

To pair with the Zins? Braised meatballs. If you're drinking something along the lines of "a red wine that is not too serious or weighty, such as a California-appellation Merlot," then pair it with Beecher's Handmade Flagship, a Cheddar-like cheese from Seattle.

Artisan Chocolate and Almond Milk: San Francisco Chronicle Food and Dining section in 60 seconds

bay area artisan chocolate

There's a new wave of artisan chocolatiers, and the Bay Area is at the forefront.

Recipes and stories this week are: Grandmother's Oven-Baked Chicken, Almond Milk Curd (Hung Yun Dow Foo), Cojondongo (Gazpacho Salad), Mrs. Hyder's Mango Gazpacho, and Mango-Cucumber-Jicama Street Food.

All kinds of news-y tidbits: a soymilk maker, north Berkeley's old Bendean is now Bui, and kids' cookbooks from Williams-Sonoma.

Lunch Bunch: San Francisco Chronicle Food & Dining section in 60 seconds

corkscrew pasta packed lunch

With childhood obesity getting out of hand and food allergies becoming more severe, kids' school lunches require careful attention. If you're packing it to go, try: Corkscrew Pasta Salad with Edamame, Red Peppers & Crunchy Noodles, Mini Pita Pizzas, Quinoa for Kids, Sweet Potato Burritos, Chicken Nachos and Chunky Salsa Base to go with the nachos or burritos.

Lunch-to-go isn't just for back-to-school. Adults pack lunches to take to work: Sesame Soba Noodles with Tofu and Spinach, Chicken and Rice PIlaf with Tomatoes, Chilled Artichoke with Homemade Tartar Sauce, Thai-inspired Noodle & Vegetable Salad, and Pan Bagnat.

If you'd rather go out for an hour during lunch, pick from Amanda Berne's fairly long list of favorite lunch spots around the city.

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Tip of the Day

After cooking a delicious meal, one of the most frustrating experiences happens when you are left with dishes full of stains that refuse to go away.

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