It's my final semester of college, and I'm taking Literature of the Great Depression to finish my English major. I think that my professor often feels badly, though, about assigning texts that are just so darn depressing, so she often opens class with a cheerful question like, "What's your favorite type of pie?" or "What's your favorite breakfast?" Recently, she asked us what our favorite thing about Spring is, and I knew instantly that mine is the delicious new food and produce that Spring brings. Clearly, there's no better way to celebrate these bright new ingredients than with entire festivals dedicated to them! This weekend, we have homages to asparagus, seafood, beer, more seafood, seafood and (my favorite) maple.

Read on after the jump to see where to go for the party, and meanwhile check out these lovely photos from last week's Great American Pie Festival.

The Boston International Seafood Show is being held starting tomorrow, Sunday Feb. 24 and going through Tues. 26, 2008. The event is located at the Boston Convention & Exhibition Center from 10am-5pm on the 24 & 25th, 10am-3pm on the 26th. This is the largest seafood show in North America. If you love seafood and are within a few hours drive of Boston then this is where you should be over the next few days. You will see every type of fish and shellfish there is on display. Experience all the new seafood based products, try samples of value added goods like smoked fish, chowders, pate's, dips, gourmet items, you name it.

I have heard about the show for several years and just haven't been able to schedule it in. This year I gave it top priority and I am going to be joining one of Maine's top, multiple award winning chefs, Carl Johnson, owner of what is one of the best smokehouses on the East Coast, Grindstone Neck of Maine and The Fishermans Inn & Restaurant, both located in Winter Harbor, ME. Carl has been written up in several magazines and newspapers. Last year his incredible smoked crab claws were near the top of the list of Saveur Magazines Top 100 2007. Over the past few months I have been chatting with him as he develops new products. Late last fall he told me about his foray into cold smoked uni. he had made a batch and thought it was really good, but didn't see much of a local market. For New Years I asked him to make me a batch and he graciously did. I coordinated a special event at a local Sushi restaurant where we served this paired with a sweet potato shochu, an elegant Japanese spirit, to huge success. Now I will be delivering some of this incredible product to several restaurants in NYC so they can try it, as well as the test kitchen of one of the best food magazines in the country. Expect to hear more about Grindstone Neck of Maine's cold smoked uni.

I look forward to exploring what is happening in the world of seafood with Carl. I couldn't ask for a more knowledgeable guide. Half chef / half molecular gastronomist, he is sure to have valuable insight into the show. See you there!

Though I am personally not a big fan of seafood in general and shrimp in particular, I know that I am in the minority on this one. Most of the world's population loves shrimp. This fact plays out in a bad way in Jamaica.

For years, people in the mountains of Jamaica were able to catch giant shrimp in the rivers there. They would catch them in the old fashioned way, which was, of course, slow and difficult. And, just like throwing dynamite into the ocean to catch fish in Asia, someone came up with a quick new way to catch a lot of shrimp quickly for some fast cash. They dump some kind of poison into the river, instantly killing the shrimp (and everything else), which then float to the top. They're easy to catch that way.

The good news is that a lot of local people have joined a movement to stop this crime. They're taking steps to catch perpetrators, educate local judges (so offenders won't be simply released), and stop the poachers from selling their ill gotten gains at the market. Hopefully they'll be able to put a stop to this before the shrimp is gone for good or the environment is permanently damaged or both.

When Slashfood alum Nick Vagnoni wrote about fish in Florida restaurants being served under misleading guises a year-and-a-half ago, we thought that officials would take care of the problem.

Apparently, a year-and-a-half later, the problem is still around. The Statesman Journal is reporting that restaurants in many parts of Florida are still passing off Asian catfish, tilapia or other cheaper species like emperor fish, hake, sutchi, bream and green weakfish as grouper. It's not the other fish are unhealthy or taste bad. In fact, it probably tastes just fine. It's that real grouper costs something like $20 a pound and the other fish are much cheaper.

Why don't restaurants just serve whatever fake grouper they're serving as what they really are?

"
Safer and better" than what? you may be asking yourself.

After a year of food (and toy) safety problems on their record including tainted seafood, the Chinese government is instituting programs and regulations to restore confidence in the safety of their seafood exports. Among the measures are a crackdown on the use of illegal antibiotics that have been shown to cause cancer and a focus on pollution and water-quality problems.

Let's hope they get it together, since much of the world has to turn to China's land-based fish farms as ocean waters become increasingly depleted by overfishing.

This might be just because I'm not a big seafood fan in the first place (except for some fish, clams, and scallops), but I find oysters a rather odd food to even think about eating. The way it must feel when it's going down your throat...gah. I wouldn't eat one for a million dollars.*

But I know that a lot of you out there love them, and Esquire has everything you need to know about buying and eating them: what they are, the difference between East Coast and West Coast oysters, how to shuck them (including the equipment you'll need), and a few companies where you can buy the best oysters in the country.

Oyster lovers, rejoice!

* This is a lie. I actually would eat one for a million dollars.

Fish is a meat that is really popular in restaurants, but somewhat less so at home. Those who love to fish and those who really dedicate a lot of time to cooking probably cook it frequently and might even use a moderately wide variety of fish, but most home cooks that I know tend to stick with a couple of dishes or a couple of preparations that they really like. For a fish-lover, this is a shame because there is a huge variety of fish available and an almost unlimited number of preparations for them. Go Fish: Fresh Ideas for American Seafood aims to expand the repertoire of seafood fans, introducing new flavors, techniques and possibly even a few new fish.

The dishes sound wonderful and use flavors from all over the world. They include Ricotta Tortellini with Grilled Sardines, Sea Bass Ceviche, Mussel Soup with Red Curry and Coconut and Bacon-Wrapped Hake with Chilled Artichoke Broth, to name just a handful. The only thing to watch out for with this book is that, though the recipes seem quite straightforward with their instructions, they can be more complicated than a novice cook might be used to, so this book seems to be best suited for experienced cooks looking for new ideas or those who like spending time in the kitchen on the weekends when they can devote time (without a week-night rush) to cooking a great meal.

The secret of oyster opening, as revealed at the 2006 World Oyster Opening Championships this past week, is "a steady hand with the oyster knife," since competitors are judged on a lack of grit (from smashed shells) as well as speed. It may not seem like much of a sport compared to soccer or downhill skiing, but it requires a tremendous amount of dexterity and concentration. The contest has been going on for four decades and this year, for the 15th time, it was won by Irish restaurateur Michael Moran, whose father took the title himself nearly three decades ago.

The sport of oyster-opening should be combined with the sport of competitive eating. Working in pairs, one could open and the eaters could, well, eat. The question would be who to team up. Do you put Kobayashi with Moran, the new World Champion Oyster Opener, or should Moran be paired with an underdog to even the teams?

Crab cakes are a favorite food of many seafood lovers. They are made with crab meat that is bound together with a small amount of filler then fried (or baked) until crisp. There are a huge number of variations on the basic cake, but the most important ingredient is, of course, the crab. Summer is typically considered to be crab season, but thanks to frozen and imported meats, crab cakes are available to most people year-round. The question is not whether you can get them, but whether they are worth getting. The week, the Wall Street Journal's Catalogue critic asked that very question and taste-tested five kinds of mail-order crab cakes.

All the cakes had to be cooked at home before serving and all but one was shipped pre-formed. The top choices were Philips Seafood and Chesapeake Bay Crab Cakes and More, which came in first and second with only the narrowest of margins deciding the winner. Third place was the Cadillac Crab Cake Co., the company that shipped the crab cakes unformed in a "loaf," allowing you to shape them according to your preferences.

The biggest drawback is that not only are the cakes expensive, but shipping is pricey, too, so keep that in mind when you decide you want a crab cake or three in the dead of winter.

Pizza?!?! He's taking you out to grab a slice of pizza?!?! Forget it. What kind of cheapskate/Peter Pan/unimaginative guy is he!??! Drop him!

Don't pretend like you haven't done it before -- judged a guy (or girl) before you've even met, based on where they want to go on the first date. Fancy expensive reservations-30-days-in-advance-only and you're impressed, right? KFC drive-thru and...well, you get the picture.

Though they don't have an opinion about pizza, AOL has put together a short feature about what his restaurant/cuisine choice could say about him. If you don't have the time to read through it, here's the lowdown:

• Tapas - "don't expect a commitment from this professional dabbler anytime soon"
• Seafood - "it's nice to spend time with somebody who believes money is no object, but if he never lets you forget it..."
• Pancake house - "a guy who knows what he wants, and exactly where to go to get it"
• Sushi - "an eclectic lifestyle, so he wants to try everything"
• Mexican - "hot and spicy guy is the kind that will dance the night away"
• Chinese - "he needs a little motivation"
• Steakhouse - "since he won't stray too far from the norm, he could be a huge bore"
• Italian - "you've got a serious romantic on your hands"
• Burgers and fries - "likes it straight, so he can save himself for the BMX race he's in"

While there are worries about mercury and other toxins in seafood, fish is still a healthy source of protein, high in omega-3 fatty acids and other vitamins and minerals, that people love to eat. But adding one more negative strike to seafood is the issue of sustainability. Some species are over-fished and others are simply discarded when caught due to a lack of demand. Farming can be a solution in some instances, but not all, and keeping track of what types of fish are the safest and most environmentally friendly can be a challenge.

The Monterey Bay Aquarium has a Seafood Watch (SFW) program that is designed to help make seafood consumers' lives easier. Their website aims to provide enough information to help people learn more about sustainable seafood and make more environmentally sound choices. They provide a printable guide that gives you an idea of the good and bad choices in different areas of the country, or you can browse the guide online, if you don't need to take it along with you.

We already heard about the warning against eating raw oysters from the Pacific Northwest, but the USDA has recently extended the warning to include clams. So far, 72 illnesses have been directly linked to the shellfish, with another 105 cases suspected of originating from contaminated seafood. All of the cases have been in Washington, Oregon and New York, where the oysters and clams from the Puget Sound area are widely available.

Symptoms include "diarrhea, abdominal cramps, nausea, vomiting, fever and chills, [and] usually start within 24 hours and last no more than three days." Cooking can kill the bacterium, Vibrio parahaemolyticus, that is linked to the sickness and the symptoms are unpleasant enough that you would be better off not taking any chances until the warning is lifted.

Summer heat (sans air conditioning) provides a great excuse to lie around the apartment and ponder. Yukari Rymar  feels the sweat bead on her forehead and thinks deep thoughts: "cold showers are great,"  "why hate on freon?" and "I wish it was winter," she murmers  The mercury rises, and deeper she slips, deeper into delirium....

 

 

"Winter in Tokyo , December '91.  I sit under the kotatsu in the living room.  Mama fixes a midday snack in the kitchen.  I watch the cartoon Chibi Maruko-chan.  A commercial for Cup Ramen starring Arnold Schwarzenneger--seriously--comes on the screen, and I turn my attention away in time to see Mama put a dish down on the table.

 

"The plate steams.  It's piled high with deep fried oyster croquettes.  Or as the Japanese call it--kaki fry."

 

 

Roy Yamaguchi is generally considered to be one of the top seafood chefs in the country - and with good reason, because his Hawaiian fusion restaurants (now a chain) , Roy's, are wildly popular. Roy's Fish & Seafood is Yamaguchi's most recent cookbook and it is intended to be a guide to not only preparing recipes "from the pacific rim," as the subtitle suggests, but as to how to get the best fish and fish dishes possible.

You will find some combinations that are far from ordinary because Yamaguchi was trained at the CIA and heavily influenced by native Pacific flavors, foods and fish, so his cooking style combines both European and Pacific styles.

Speaking of fish, some of the fish in this book may not be at your local supermarket, like barracuda, for example. To find it - and get high quality fish in general - it might be best to heed Yamaguchi's advice from the very first line of the book: "patronize a reputable fishmonger at all possible and don't be shy about asking questions."

Whole Foods markets will no longer sell live lobsters and soft-shelled crabs on the grounds that it is an inhumane practice. The company spent months studying the conditions that lobsters experienced en route from the sea to the shopper. They tried to make the lobsters as comfortable as possible, but ultimately concluded that "they could not ensure the creatures [were] treated with respect and compassion."

Whole Foods pointed to a European study that said lobsters can feel pain like humans and animals, but the scientific community is divided over to what degree a lobster's fairly primitive nervous systems actually feel.

The lobster industry isn't concerned with this decision. 25% of all lobsters are sold live and they feel strongly that consumers who want live lobsters will still seek them out.

PETA and other animal rights groups are thrilled with the decision, but seem to have missed the fact that the market will still carry frozen raw and cooked lobster products. The lobsters are still being killed, but they won't be boiled by Whole Foods shoppers.