"restaurant critic" news and stories

Time was, restaurateurs kept their eyes out for the local food critics, the ones who could make or break their reputation with a few well-chosen words in the next day's newspaper.

Today, restaurateurs still have critic anxiety. The difference is, everyone's a critic -- and the criticism is taking place online, reports the Boston Globe. Sites like Yelp and Chowhound have democratized the world of criticism, with lay foodies striking fear into the hearts of restaurant owners. After all, a few quick keystrokes at the computer or on the smartphone can create lasting damage if the writer shares a negative experience.

Just as social media sites like Facebook, Twitter, and Foursquare have shown an explosion in usage over the past few years, so have review sites -- enough so that they're becoming a force in restaurant culture, reports the San Francisco Business Times. Six-year-old Yelp, for example, has grown by more than a third in just a year, and now has more than 10 million reviews in its database -- meaning nary a restaurant can escape its reaches any longer.

Frank Bruni (left) and interviewer John Berman. Photo: ABC News "Nightline."

Restaurant devotees tuning into Wednesday night's edition of ABC News "Nightline," slavering for juicy tidbits from the upcoming tell-all penned by departing New York Times restaurant critic Frank Bruni were treated to an intimate portrait of ... uh, the poignant tale of ... OK, the dude wants to sell some books. This was his infomercial.

It's hard to blame the guy. For the past five years, the admitted former bulimic who once sported a 42-inch waistband was the most fear-inducing eater in all of New York's five boroughs, his deft, often hilarious and scathing reviews packing the power to loft or condemn restaurants' fates -- around 270 of them during his tenure at the Times -- despite his intensely conflicted relationship with food and the constant pressure to maintain anonymity by means of unflattering wigs, stick-on facial hair and fake reservation names he'd sometimes forget upon arrival at the host's stand.

In his first network interview since taking on this trencherman's task in 2004, Bruni -- publicly revealing his face on video for the first time to a national audience -- talked about his lifelong battle with overeating and the extreme, often unsuccessful measures he took to combat his epic binges.

"First let me introduce myself. I'm Craig Claiborne, and this is Julia Child." Photo: Scanned from A Feast Made for Laughter

"And to tell the truth, I was bored with restaurant criticism. At times I didn't give a damn if all the restaurants in Manhattan were shoved into the East River and perished. Had they all served nightingale tongues on toast and heavenly manna and mead, there is just so much that the tongue can savor, so much that the human body (and spirit) can accept, and then it resists. Toward the end of my days as restaurant critic, I found myself increasingly indulging in drink, the better to endure another evening of dining out. I had become a desperate man with a frustrating job to perform." -- from 'A Feast Made for Laughter' by Craig Claiborne, New York Times Dining editor and restaurant critic, 1982

While there have thus far been no reports of departing New York Times restaurant critic and newly-minted memoirist Frank Bruni tipsily pressing ham against the windows of the Second Avenue Deli, rolling members of the Cipriani family for spare change and Bellini drippings, or skulking through the catacombs at Ninja New York, randomly alarming the goofily hooded servers, it's not as if he's going silently into that last bite.

They rarely do.

New York Times and coffee. Photo: The Nickster, Flickr

We reported back in May, along with the rest of the food blogosphere, that Frank Bruni, dining critic for the New York Times, was departing his beat as perhaps the most powerful journalist in the national restaurant scene.

Blogs like Eater, Grub Street and Gawker covered the departure obsessively, and their sadness at the departure of the man some called the Brunz -- or when feeling particularly tender, "King Brunz" -- was palpable.

Now Sam Sifton has stepped into the spotlight and, as editor Bill Keller's memo notes, up to the treadmill. (Bruni wrote about his rigorous workout routine for Men's Vogue). Food writers are already apoplectic about the newcomer: Eater has given the casual "Sifty" a shot, whereas Gawker is far more interested in finding a proper costume for the not-at-all-anonymous Sifton, who has long been the Gray Lady's Culture Editor. No doubt the suggestions of Gawker commenters, which range from Harry Potter to Lenny Dykstra to Anna Wintour, will prove helpful to the new critic.

As per the departure of the Brunificent One, his photo was released to the public this week. Gael Greene quickly tweeted, "Would you trade in your clunker and buy a new car from this man?" Eat Me Daily -- to hilarious effect -- delivered at once.

A mystery diner is basically a restaurant critic that doesn't get published. Instead, his or her writeups on the dining experience go back to the restaurant, or the company that owns the restaurant, just to give them feedback on how things are running. The diners don't just look at the food, unlike regular critics (or bloggers who like to report back on their meals!). They have to keep track of the timing of the service, the greetings, the decor and whether the coffee was hot enough throughout their visit. A restaurant can be dinged if the hostess doesn't smile or if the busboy clears the plates the second you pick up your last forkful of food. The restaurant's management will use the information to make changes in layout, service strategy or at any other weak points that are picked out

Although it sounds like it would be a job only for the most detail-oriented diners, it is a way for food-lovers to get free meals, since the payment is compensation for the meal. A typical dinner might include two drinks, one appetizer, two entrees and one dessert, since the diners are not expected to dine alone. One of the companies that provides the service is called www.theeyespy.com, but there are others that operate all over the country, as well. The only downside is that, because of confidentiality agreements, diners aren't supposed to share their opinions with anyone else, even friends and family.

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