"popovers" news and stories

I quickly stopped into my favorite thrift store earlier this afternoon and found an assortment of treasures. The best among the haul was a six-cup non-stick popover pan. I've wanted a popover pan ever since a brunch at a friend's house a few months ago and discovered how hollow and high popovers can get when baked in a pan designed expressly for them.

When I was seven years old, I was given a cookbook called "For Good Measure: A Cookbook for Children." I loved this book and would pore over it, reading and re-reading the recipes for Hopscotch Scones, Brownies and Old Time Strawberry Jam. My favorite recipe, and the one I made over and over again on Saturday mornings for my babysitter and younger sister, was for popovers. On my last trip out to Portland, I went through most of my childhood books, packing up the ones I wanted to keep and getting rid of the rest. This first cookbook of mine went into the keep pile. It's a little musty from years of storage in my parents' garage and there are a couple of pages that are stuck together, but I still love it. You can find the popover recipe after the jump.

A good popover should be slightly crisp on the outside, tender and slightly custardy on the inside, and must be attractively puffy. There are specialty pans available for making them, but as with most specialty pans, it's hard to know whether buying them is worth the price. I don't make popovers very often, so I almost always use a regular muffin pan, as I did when I made eggnog popovers over the holidays. But the argument for using the specialty pans, neatly summed up in the above photo of the Fanatic Cook 's mile-high popovers, is compelling. The muffin-made popovers met the textural characteristics that are desirable in a popover, but they simply cannot compete when it comes to the towering heights that the specialty pan popovers do.

With this in mind, I would certainly consider investing in a popover pan if I made popovers more than once or twice a year. The results, clearly, are impressive and the pans don't take up that much room. I'll just keep them with my wide array of specialty and shaped cake pans....

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• What should your last meal of 2006 be? Why, french fries topped with cheese and gravy of course!
• Or maybe you'd like something a little more sophisticated.
• Don't just serve bread tonight, try some popovers.
• Yes, Boston has one of the top caviar producers in the country.
• 5 food critics pick their 5 favorite cookbooks of 2006.
• Spending New Year's Eve in Boston? The Globe has some ideas for First Night dining.
• This week's recipes: Candied Orange Rind, Crown Roast of Pork with Rice Pilaf, Carrot Cake, and Tourtiere.

Looking for a way to use up some leftover eggnog, I considered possibilities like eggnog cookies and eggnog cheesecake before deciding to make up a batch of eggnog popovers. A popover is made with an egg batter, very similar to crepe batter, that puffs up in the oven, literally popping over the top of the tin that it is made in. Since the batter is similar to pancake batter, I was hoping for something that would be appropriate for breakfast or dessert and that is exactly what I got.

The interior of these popovers is moist and tender, almost custardy, while the exterior is light and crisp. They're best when they're still hot or warm, but are still tasty at room temperature. You can really taste the eggnog flavor, boosted with a bit of nutmeg and vanilla, and they go wonderfully with maple syrup or powdered sugar.

In our quest for a great set of Thanksgiving recipes, we've already seen the recipes from a lot of our favorite bloggers. First, we tackled the turkey and stuffing and then we moved on to the side dishes. Today, we're looking at some great ideas for breads to serve along with the meal. Carbs may be filling, but you need something to soak up all that extra gravy, right?

• First, we have some Pumpkin Thyme Dinner Rolls from Wednesday Chef, which have a lot of flavor and a lovely color from the pumpkin.
• Nothing goes better with gravy than real Southern Biscuits from Andrea's Kitchen with White Lily flour. If you can't find white Lily, try this recipe instead, as it uses all purpose.
• This is a great time to try your hand at the ever-popular no-knead bread (recipe in the comments)
• Cornbread is a classic Thanksgiving option with a great texture. Many prefer skillet cornbread, as Meathenge does, but sweet cornbread, is a popular option, too.
• Culinary in the Desert's Roasted Garlic and Fresh Rosemary Cloverleaf Rolls (pictured) are delicious even without a feast to accompany them.
• Popovers, like Orangette's, are light, quick-cooking and very impressive when served. They're good for sopping up gravy and juices, but are also fantastic with jam in the morning.
• Parker House Rolls are the gold standard of dinner rolls and will be a favorite with everyone at the table. Take the advice from Humble Pie and keep some butter on hand when serving.
• If you prefer to have a whole grain bread for dinner, try a loaf of Maple Whole-wheat Bread, which Seriously Good said had a "nutty sweetness" and certainly looks seriously good.