"peru" news and stories

It sounds more like an adman's fantasy, something you'd hear in a TV commercial replete with lush tropical vegetation and a waterfall thrown in for good measure (cue the sexy voiceover): "From deep in the mountains of Peru comes some of the world's most rare and delicious chocolate."

But as it turns out, the story behind Fortunato No. 4, the chocolate being released this week by Marañón Chocolate (in a demonstration at New York's Institute for Culinary Education), is more than just an ad gimmick. It truly is rare, made from cacao beans that were long thought to be extinct.

Chocolate made from the Pure Nacional cacao tree was once renowned as a delicacy around the world, but in 1916, disease struck the trees in South America, wiping out nearly the entire population. It was thought the variety had vanished entirely, until three years ago when two Americans were sourcing fruit in Peru's remote Marañón Canyon, and they found what they first thought were ordinary cacao trees. Then they split open the football-shaped pods.

The economy is suffering, and money woes have mixed their way into Christmas stress. What happens now? Stress eating!

And when you're reaching for something to munch on in all your stress, why not a guinea pig? The Peruvian province of Callao is trying to teach the world that guinea pigs are a cost effective and tasty way to feed yourself.

Warning: this post may offend people who like cute little furry guinea pigs.

A few days ago, I wrote a post about chicha morada, the amazing Peruvian blue corn drink. Thinking on it further, I am becoming increasingly convinced that Peru produces some of the best dishes in the world; with that in mind, I plan on writing a fair bit more about the wonders of lomo saltado, papas a la huancaina, and other treats. However, in the interests of total honesty, I also have to acknowledge the dark side of Peruvian cuisine, the surreal side, the side that dresses up guinea pigs in colorful costumes then roasts them with cheese.

The twisted tale of the Peruvian Guinea Pig Festival begins in a cute, whimsical way. In the small city of Huacho, located north of Lima, somebody came up with the bright idea of holding a regional carnival to honor the cuy, or guinea pig. Now in its third year, the event features contests for fattest, quickest, and best dressed cuy. People from the surrounding communities primp and preen their top animals, preparing them for the race and dressing them in the height of rodent fashion. It is not uncommon to see the animals dressed in bright silks and taffetas, sporting little hats and crowns, and generally looking like a cross between a fur mitten and the infant of Prague.

While the winners of the fastest and best dressed contests are spared from the final competition, the remainder of the cuy become fodder for the greatest test of all, a battle royale that pits woman against woman, village against village, and cuy against cuy: the fight for tastiest guinea pig. Amidst an orgy of stuffing, roasting, skewering and smoking, the women of Peru demonstrate their skill with one of the country's traditional delicacies.

Unlike Manhattan, which is revered for its cuisine, or Queens, which is famed for its ethnic variety, the Bronx is known for its outstanding little Italy, its collection of Puerto Rican cuchifrito joints, and little else. However, in my constant search for the ultimate neighborhood restaurant, I sometimes find wonderful little gems. A few months ago, I wandered into the provocatively-named "Pisac: Peruvian Food and Pizza." Having tried a few Peruvian dishes in college, I was eager to try some more, and Pisac seemed like the kind of hole-in-the-wall joint that ends up becoming a favorite.

Over the last few months, my wife and I have made Pisac a regular hangout. In the process, we've discovered the wonders of chicha morada, a Peruvian purple-corn drink that is simultaneously sweet, spicy, and fruity. In addition to this, it contains a dizzying array of juices that makes it into something of a Peruvian cure-all. In fact, the patrons of Pisac constantly claim that a combination of chicha, ceviche, and Peruvian lime/onion sauce can cure everything from an underactive libido to leprosy.

Meat market in Lima, Peru. From Flickr user ravakhan2.

I'm posting images of sausage counters the world over each weeknight (and occasionally weekend) witching hour until I run out. Please use the comments section to post links to your Flickr or personal site faves, and perhaps you'll see 'em posted here late some evening.

Previously-- Midnight Sausage: Saugus, MA