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Posts with tag pastry

James Beard Award-Winning Pastry Chef - A Chat with Babbo's Gina DePalma

ginaUntil this Monday, Babbo Pastry Chef Gina DePalma was the Kate Winslet of the culinary world, earning six James Beard Award nominations for the honor of Outstanding Pastry Chef but never taking the cake. The seventh time, though, proved to be the ... er ... icing. We caught up with DePalma this morning to chat about victory, pastry, her battle with ovarian cancer and her boss, the boisterous Mario Batali (aka Mr. Fanta Pants).

What did it feel like to the finally win a James Beard Award?
I tried not to break down into tears. I tried to keep myself together up there. After seven years, you try to emotionally turn yourself off. In past years I thought it was such a big deal to win, but it still felt good.

Is that why you were emotional on stage? That was part of it. It's also been a very tough year for me. I don't know if you know, I have been battling ovarian cancer. I was diagnosed four days after my sixth loss. I had a huge operation and went through chemo and lost all my hair. I am still in treatment. It was stage four. It was end of the line, but they got it all in surgery.

Hear why salted caramels should die and why DePalma is afraid to rock orange crocs after the jump.

Continue reading James Beard Award-Winning Pastry Chef - A Chat with Babbo's Gina DePalma

Whoopie Pies from One Girl Cookies

Whoopie Pies

I have always been a huge fan of deliciously rich and creamy whoopie pies. So, when I read the recent New York Times article about its current popularity among New Yorkers, I was not too surprised.

The article traces the history of this delectable to pockets of New England, Pennsylvania and Ohio. And, it explains that due to their gaining popularity, supermarkets like Whole Foods, Trader Joe's and (specialty deli) Zingerman's sell them. But, my favorite spot for whoopie pies is at One Girl Cookies in Cobble Hill, Brooklyn.

As food historian Sandra Oliver states, the cake part that sandwiches the cream is not especially sweet and is often dry, because the frosting, the heart of the whoopie, is full of sugar and a gooey consistency. This characterizes One Girl Cookies' luscious whoopie pies. There is an amazing balances between the frosting in the center and the light fluffy dry cookie/cake.

Perhaps, one of the reasons why they're so special is that cream cheese frosting is sandwiched between pumpkin cake (see the photo above).

You can purchase a dozen whoopie pies from One Girl Cookies online for $27. The Times mentions another pastry shop in Brooklyn with whoopie fever called Trois Pommes Patisserie.

Tidbits: Doughnut muffin

The perfect marriage of pastry- meet the donut muffin.
I love when life tosses a little bit of unexpected happiness. Walking around my local farmers' market, I spotted from a distance a sugary concoction that sparked an interest. I asked the question, he answered, and I wondered if life would ever be the same.

Meet the doughnut muffin: part delectable doughnut, part soft, cake-y muffin tossed around in cinnamon sugar. Beyond filling (but not too heavy), I split this with my trusty side-kick and felt the level of comfort rising. New to block - Brownie Points located in Summit, NJ - turned out this perfect marriage of everything gone right in the pastry world along with many others.

Visit them at the Summit Farmers' Market every Sunday until Christmas or at their store: 3 Beechwood Road (908) 464-2253

Petit fours explained

Two chocolate petite fours and one vanilla petite four.
Petit fours have been becoming increasingly popular over the last few years. They're perfect for those of us concerned about portion control. You can satiate your sweet tooth without overindulging with the bite sized sweets.

There's a certain conception that most people have of petit fours. Most of us think the treats have to be small square or round cakes with a poured fondant icing and a piped decoration on top. There's much more to it than that. Petit four translates from French as 'small oven,' which refers to the ovens after the large items had been baked. The heat in the oven was a lot lower after the bread or large cakes (in the case of the nobility) came out, so things like smaller cakes and cookies that needed lower temperatures could then be baked.

In a strict sense, a petit four can be any small cookie, cake, creme puffs or tartlettes. Even sugar coated nuts and fruits could be considered petit four, technically speaking. According to Larousse Gastronomique, petit fours became popular during the reign of Louis XIV, the Sun King himself.

When we work on the small desserts for teas or buffets in my pastry kitchen, we use almond cake to make the petit four glacés. It's a very dense almond cake that we then layer with different flavors of marmalade, top with marzipan (only on the top layer), and then pour fondant over in a very thin layer (after cutting the cake into small squares of course). They're so rich it's a good thing we cut them in such bite-sized pieces.

People respond: There are great macarons all over the United States

Macarons from Paulette in Beverly Hills

Last week, I wrote a post asking why I cannot find decent macarons in the United States. Apparently, I'm not looking hard enough. Comments from all over the country revealed people's favorite shops where they buy them. Although I have not yet tried the macarons at all these places, I thought it would be useful to create a U.S. macaron directory.

So far, it looks like most of these places are located in California. Feel free to comment with new shops to add to the directory!

Columbus, Ohio
: Becke recommends Pistacia Vera at 541 south third street. Try their salted caramel macarons.

Milwaukee, Wisconsin
: Ann suggests that we try the macarons at 316 North Milwaukee St., at Harlequin Bakery.

New York, New York: To think that in my own city I failed to discover Macaron Café which is just around the corner from my mother's office at 161 west 36th street, just off 7th avenue. Thanks Tom Avel for letting us know about this shop. Kat Kinsman enjoyed the macarons from Alain Ducasse's Adour at the St. Regis hotel.

Yountville, California:
Although I did not care for Thomas Keller's macarons at Buchon Bakery in NY, Kelly enjoyed them at Keller's Buchon in Yountville at 6534 Washington st.

San Francisco, California: Verena suggests Boulangerie at 2325 Pine Street. Ivan claims that Tartine Bakery at 600 Guerreo St., by 18th street, is the place to buy macarons. Mathew points out another shop located at the Ferry Building Marketplace, shop No. 10 - Miette.

Berkeley, California: Verena also reccomends Masse's Pastries at 1469 Shattuck Ave.

Los Angeles, California: Jon raves about the macarons at Boule located at 408 N. Cienga Blvd and at 413 N. Bedford Drive in Beverly Hills.

Beverly Hills, California: Apart from Boule's Beverly Hills location, you can stroll into Paulette at 9466 Charleville Blvd. If you're not in Beverly Hills, you can order from them online. That's what John did.








Why can't I find decent macarons in the United States?

Macarons from Thomas Keller's Bouchon BakeryEver since I returned from my school year abroad in Paris, I have been on a quest for delicate luscious creamy macarons. Unfortunately, every time I purchase them in the U.S., I am disappointed.

Why is it so hard to find decent macarons in the United States? The ones at La Maison du Chocolat are not bad. But, they're overwhelmingly chocolatey. Many times, they even taste too greasy.

Yesterday, I went to Thomas Keller's Bouchon Bakery in Manhattan and was jumping up and down with excitement when I saw macarons. They looked just like the ones I had at Ladurée in Paris. Except, when I looked at them closely, I noticed that the layer of cream in the middle was much thicker and heavier. A bite into a macaron from Bouchon Bakery is more like a bite into a heavy creamy delicious cake. Although it tasted quite excellent, it lacked many of the characteristics I love about the macarons I've tasted in Paris, mainly its lightness and slightly crunchy exterior and creamy interior.

Can someone recommend a shop where I can find a decent macaron?

Luscious macarons at Pierre Hermé

Macarons from Pierre Hermé

My obsession for those heavenly creamy, crispy, sweet French pastries, called macarons, began when I lived in Paris. I would go to the Ladurée, the pastry-shop and tearoom, almost every week to sit down like an old woman and drink tea and snack on a macaron. Ah, the wonderful gastronomic moments spent at Ladurée! It deserves its own blog post.

Recently, I discovered another incredible pastry-shop in Paris, Pierre Hermé, where you can try some interesting flavored macarons, such as caramel with fleur de sel and passion fruit with chocolate. The tiny store, located at No. 72 rue Bonaparte on the Left Bank, almost always has a quick moving line started out the door. As you enter this chic pastry boutique, your eyes are automatically drawn to the many gorgeous fruit cakes on your left. And then, as you get further into the store, all your senses are overwhelmed by the beauty -- the fresh aroma of baked sweets and the stunning displays of various cakes and macarons.

My experience at Pierre Hermé was like a glance into heaven. By the time it was my turn to order, I was speechless. I had spent the entire time in line absorbing the smells and the delicious goodies instead of figuring out which macarons I wanted to order. One of the shopkeepers gave me a menu of macarons. I studied it closely and finally bought a box of 16. Check out my favorite flavors and more after the jump.

Continue reading Luscious macarons at Pierre Hermé

Pastry Chef Central is a magical place

Three individual raspberrry cake desserts.I am in heaven. First I find flame decals for my Kitchen Aid. Now I've found the best web site ever, at least in my opinion.

Pastry Chef Central has everything a pastry chef (or geek) could ever want!
The site is basically split up into two sections: tools and ingredients. The tools section has several categories each filled with wonderful, beautiful toys, I mean tools. The ingredients section doesn't have any sub-sections, but it doesn't need any as it's choc full of lovely and fantastic things necessary for all manner of delicious desserts.

There's a third section, actually. It's a resource area with recipes and an "Ask the Chef" link.

The site is great. It's easy to read and follow. It's neat and clean, as any pastry web site should be. Best of all, Pastry Chef Central has lots of pictures! Can you actually see me drooling? Does anyone have any other pastry/baking websites to share?

Pastry demo with a Certified Master Pastry Chef

chocolate and sugar sculptureOn Monday, I was lucky enough to go to a demonstration by a Certified Master Pastry Chef named Frank Volkommer. There are really only a handful of CMPC's in the country so to see one at work is quite a treat. Chef Volkommer has taught at the Culinary Institute of America and is currently the corporate pastry chef for Cargill Cocoa and Chocolate.

Quite often these demonstrations are dressed up sales pitches for a brand of chocolate or other product. This one was no different, but that didn't make it any less interesting or relevant (at least to pastry professionals). While Chef Volkommer was using only Cargill brand chocolates, the demonstration was really about how to air brush colored cocoa butter into truffle molds to get colorful truffles.

Chef Volkommer made a tasty passionfruit ganache filling first. He then went into detail about a couple of different air brushing machines and how to use them for cocoa butter. The trick is to keep the parts of the air brush gun warm while using cocoa butter, if you're interested in trying this. The Chef went about finishing the truffles and set them aside to cool for later.


Continue reading Pastry demo with a Certified Master Pastry Chef

Food Porn: Cinnamon Butterfly

A hot cup of coffee and a rich, buttery, cinnamon-sugar pastry is a wonderful way to start off a Sunday morning - especially when, because of Daylight Savings Time, we had to "leap forward" a hour last night and are all a touch sleep-deprived. For once, I'm not talking about a cinnamon bun with this sweet pastry, although it is not too far off the mark. Cinnamon Butterflies, also called Cinnamon Ears, are similar to cinnamon buns in that they begin with a buttery dough that is rolled out and wrapped into a cinnamon-sugar-filled spiral. The difference is that the Butterflies are set on their side and pressed in the center so that the ends of the roll are pushed out into "wings" (or ears). The pastry is Scandinavian, and as is traditional with so many recipes from the region, each one is topped with sprinkles of a very large-grain sugar, or lightly crushed sugar cubes, for additional sweetness and crunch. Gattina, from Kitchen Unplugged, made this batch, as you can read the full post for the recipe.

Food Porn: Cannelé Colossus

A good cannelé is one of the things that foodies will spend years seeking. Typically, it is a small pastry with a custardy center and slightly crisp/chewy, intensely caramelized crust. There are special molds available to achieve the proper, traditional shape, but having the molds alone doesn't give you the ability to produce a good cannelé, and so there are few bakeries (especially in the US) that carry the French delicacies. Once you know how to make them, however, it seems like it is possible to do so in a good metal pan of any shape. Melissa, from The Traveler's Lunchbox, has clearly take a page from the Pimp That Snack book with her utterly amazing Cannelé Colossus, which she made in a full-sized bundt pan. Her spectacular pastry took three hours to bake, in addition to a fairly long prep time, but it was worth every second.

It's not often that you hear a food blogger, though they are quite generous with praise, describe a dish in just one word: fantastic.

Zingerman's offers bread, pastry classes

Zingerman's, the famous Ann Arbor delicatessen and foodie hub, is expanding its offerings with the opening of a new baking school. The Bake! baking school is part of Zingerman's Bakehouse, which is responsible for the indulgent pastries and artisanal breads that the Zingerman's group sells. The classes, which run from $40 to $125 each, all teach single skills and are aimed at imparting professional tips and techniques to everyday cooks. Scones, baguettes, strudels, pizza dough and sourdough breads are all topics that will be covered and the classes will vary in length based on the complexity of the subject matter and the time involved in making the product. Students can take one class or a series, depending on what skills they want to master. For those who want to do it all, the school is offering a "Bake-Cation," which is a four-day class that covers everything from quick breads to sourdough with homemade starter. Every single course is entirely hands-on.

Food Porn: Mixed Berry & Cream Cheese King Cake

King Cake is a staple of Mardi Gras celebrations. The pastry is made with a rich, brioche-like dough that is light in texture, but made with plenty of butter and eggs, and wrapped around a decadent filling of either cream cheese or marzipan. Usually shaped in a round, the cake is frosted with tri-colored icing: purple to represent justice, green to represent faith, and gold to represent power. Amanda and Tyler (the cook and the eater, respectively) from What We're Eating baked up a decadent Mixed Berry & Cream Cheese King Cake to celebrate the season, filled with a combination of berries, cream cheese and sour cream for a sweet, fruity take on the seasonal favorite. The berries are actually cooked with sugar to form a quick jam, which is layered with the cheese mixture inside the cake. King Cakes can be eaten for breakfast or dessert, and this one seems like a prime candidate for the former category.

A creative take on turkey

It's a shame that I didn't see this vegan turkey recipe before I tried making the rather... interesting... Tofurkey shortly before this past Thanksgiving. The Tofurkey was a tofu-based "roast" with a wild rice stuffing and a faux-giblet gravy on the side. The vegan turkey from Two Vegan sisters almost reverses the order of ingredients, ending up with something that sounds much more appetizing. At the center of their "turkey," they used seitan, a wheat-based meat substitute, and covered it in a layer of stuffing that was shaped into a turkey-like mass and had turkey/stuffing legs added. The whole construction was covered with a layer of homemade (vegan) puff pastry and baked until golden. A turkey and stuffing savory pastry? It seems hard to go wrong with that!

And if you're not a vegan, this idea could still work for you. I can picture sausages or even real turkey in the center of this faux bird. It would certainly be an interesting take on the traditional bird at your next family dinner!

[via the ppk blog]

Gale Gand's Just a Bite: 125 Luscious Little Desserts, Cookbook of the Day

If you never saw the show Sweet Dreams on the Food Network (which is, much to my surprise, still on the air even though it seems like it has been years!), you have been missing out. Hosted by Gale Gand, the pastry chef/owner of Tru restaurant in Chicago, the show was one of the very first programs to be entirely dessert and pastry oriented. And for any fan of baking, it was a must-see. Gand is extremely talented and is the author of a number of cookbooks, but in Gale Gand's Just a Bite: 125 Luscious Little Desserts, she tackles the types of bite sized desserts that are oh-so elegant and still rich enough to satisfy.

Impressive enough for any pastry chef to present after a really elegant meal, the recipes in the book are also- thanks to Gand's clear instructions - perfectly work-able for the home chef looking for something a cut above the average dessert. It includes lots of retro-inspired recipes that will take you back to your childhood, with (Caramel-Orange Rice Crisps) or without (Peppermint Stick-White Chocolate Bark) a twist. Among the other recipes are Cannelés, Blackberry Brown-Butter Financiers and Banana Brûlée Spoonfuls.

Next Page >

Tip of the Day

December may have peppermint bark, but have you thought to incorporate the taste of autumn into white chocolate with a rich pumpkin swirl?

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