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Phila. Weekly Top 50 bars

Between Marisa and I, we pretty much have the Philly phood food scene covered. Especially when it comes to Beer Week.

But there's one not-so-subtle difference: Marisa reviews the classy beer critic's news. And me? Well...I stick to what I know. Dive bars and cheap local beer, baby (I'm not sure if I'm proud or ashamed of this fact. Maybe a little of both).

And there's more dive bars and cheap local beer in this week's alt-weekly than one could ever ask for. Now, the alt-weekly staff certainly aren't the most highly regarded reviewers of food and drink, but they do know their fine hole-in-the-wall pubs and classic dingy taverns when they seem 'em. Ask them for the best spot to get a PBR and a shot of Jack, and they'd never steer you wrong. (For the record, it's Bob & Barbara's).

There's a grainy little video of the #1 choice, Grace Tavern. But even if you don't live in Philly, you'll appreciate it for its old-timey tavern feel and the little quirks that make it unique.

Hey Philly readers: which ones from the list do you frequent? And which bars did the paper mistakenly leave off the list?

Oh, and for the record? I've been to exactly half of them. Bring it on, Marisa!

Scalping Reservations and Dining Hall Cooking: NY Times Dining in 60 seconds

A business called PrimeTime Tables operates in New York City by getting primo reservations are restaurants and, effectively, scalping them to customers who want them. Restaurateurs call the service "disingenuous and parasitic," noting that it undermines the relationship between restaurant and diner because unlike any other concierge, PTT charges users for their tables. Most are trying to figure out how the service gets their reservations in the first place.

At Yale, students take lessons in dining hall cooking, where they turn simple ingredients from the condiment bar into gourmet treats the likes of which the cafeteria staff isn't going to offer on their own. And they do it in the microwave.

Mark Bittman, the minimalist, talks about broilers - a.k.a. upside down grills - and how to get the most out of yours. He recommends preheating the oven before turning on the broiler and using an ovenproof skillet for cooking, rather than a broiler pan. Recipes include Hard-Shell Clams With Parsley Pesto, Broiled Steak With Pineapple and Onion Salsa and Tortilla Soup.

Frank Bruni analyzes Top Chef and while he mentions Marcel's haircut and Ilan's cutthroat tactics, he spends more time talking about what makes the show work.

It's lemon season and there are many things to make: Spaghetti al Limone, Chicken Breasts with Fennel and Lemon and Lemon Confit Shortbread Tart.

Frank Bruni dines at Gordon Ramsay at the London and gives it two stars.

Pleasing the Chef: NY Times Dining in 60 seconds

Frank Bruni has some very astute observations about the way that restaurants present themselves these days. Chefs are artists and the meal is art. While once a diner could still eat what they wanted, when they wanted to, those decisions are now given to the restaurant and to the chef, each of which has a vision (usually of an expensive tasting menu) and vanity to preserve.

Even with advertising deals, cookbooks and tv shows, chefs are still making most of their money at their restaurants. And it's not as much as you might think, at least not until the chefs have already hit the big time in terms of popularity.

Issa Moskowitz, of the PPK, talks about being vegan, being punk and then shares some recipes: Devil's Food Cupcakes with Fluffy White Filling and Chocolate Icing, Spicy Peanut Stew with Ginger and Tomato and Butternut Squash Rice Paper Rolls.

Winter is a good time for smoking - smoking meats, that is.

Americanized haggis leaves out the offal (most of it, anyway) and is much more popular with consumers as a result.

Frank Bruni dines at The Waverly Inn and Garden and gives it one star.

Mark Bittman, the minimalist, makes Farfalle with Gorgonzola, Arugula and Cherry Tomatoes.

Food trends for 2007 from (almost) A to Z

We already rounded up the highlights of the food world from 2006 in a comprehensive a to z list and highlighted a couple of trends that we see coming up in 2007, but the Miami Herald has their own list of predictions for the top food trends of 2007. The list runs from A, for "Anti-aging products for boomers," to U, "Upscale salts" (v-z are left out) and highlights include:

  • Downsized desserts -- small sizes appeal to health-conscious eaters, but also mean that people will be tempted to take more "bites" than they would o a single dessert, especially if the pastry chef goes for big, creative flavors in spite of the dessert's small size.
  • Hamburgers and hot dogs go haute -- More chefs tackle these favorites, from Thomas Keller and Joe Bastianich (Mario Batali's partner) to Rachael Ray, who is rumored to be planning her own burger joint.
  • Mad science meets fine dining -- Molecular gastronomy meets the mainstream, as more chefs gain access to the ideas and tools needed to create some of the unusual presentations made popular by Ferran Adria. Like foam.
  • Salt backlash -- Contrasting with the trend for gourmet salts, food watchdogs looking for their next fight could move on to salt from trans fats in a matter of months.

Kitchens in Controversy: NY Times Dining in 60 seconds

Daniel Boulud, the notorious perfectionist, driven chef and wildly successful restaurateur, has been accused of racism by some of his former staff members, who claim that he favors white Europeans (he himself is a French immigrant) over other groups. Boulud, rather than settling the issue with a payoff that could look like an admission of guild, has chosen to fight back, suing the "group leading the protest for... defamation, nuisance and harassment, and of causing damage to his business." Boulud says that "racism is a vicious charge. It is too easy to accuse someone of that, and it is very hard to defend yourself."

Fishermen are worried about the state of the seas. Lately, in Maine, their chowders have been made with only lobster and few other fish. The fact that the typically fish-rich stews are so lacking diversity means that the supplies are not as good, or as stable, as they could be, which may lead to problems with even the lobster in the future.

Black skinned, black boned chickens are not that appetizing to look at, but are hugely popular with Asian cooks that enjoy their "deep, gamy flavor." Unlike regular chickens, Silkies are usually cooked in soup, sauce or a broth, not roasted.

UglyRipes get approval from Florida growers

Frank Bruni dines at Porchetta and gives it one star.

Mark Bittman, the minimalist, makes scrambled eggs with shrimp.

Greenwashing: NY Times Dining in 60 seconds

Greenwashing is the term that is applied when mass market products (junk food, mostly) are made over with some organic ingredients, giving consumers the idea that they are buying something good/good for them. There are several ways to identify their packaging. Look for: farms and fields, possibly dotted with giant vegetables and a cute tractor, diversity if any people are pictured, animals with "special skills or great emotional range" (sunglasses, saxophones etc.), family photographs for a family-owned company and have a cause of some kind. Toss in some subdued coloring and you have a greenwashed product that is sure to fly off the shelves.

What music, if any, should be played in a restaurant's dining room? Some restaurateurs go it alone, but as the complaints start to pile in, many turn to the pros for assistance. Professionals can fit the music to the restaurant, the staff, the food and the time of day to try to create the ultimate dining experience for their guests.

The caviar ban is lifted and exports from caviar-producing countries can begin again.

Absinthe is a spirit flavored with wormwood and a variety of other herbs and spices. Thujone, a chemical in wormwood, gives the spirit an "evergreen aroma" and causes it to become milky when diluted. It is legal throughout Europe (dispite a lack of regulation as to what precisely should go into it), but not in the US.

For the ultimate dining experience, some recommend dining off the menu, rather than from it. Often, it is the regulars who find out about the availability of such dishes, but usually they are available for anyone who orders them.

Greek food is inventive and, at the moment, very popular. Try dishes like Slow-Cooked Beef With Cracked Wheat , Timbale of Skate , and Tomato Sushi at home.

Mark Bittman, the minimalist, makes pork tenderloin.

Frank Bruni eats at Mai House and gives it two stars.

A restaurateur's take on restaurant reviews

Every restaurant wants to get a good review in the paper, whether they actually like the reviewer or not, and there have been so many books from the critic's perspective (Garlic and Sapphires, for example) that most people don't have a clue has to how a restaurant actually handles a review, good and bad. The Denver Posts's dining critic, Tucker Shaw, sat down with restaurateur Danny Meyer to try to get some perspective on how reviews are seen from the other side of the kitchen door.

Meyer has 11 New York restaurants, including Grammercy Tavern and Eleven Madison Park, so he is certainly no stranger to reviews. He says that all reviews will have positive and negative consequences, regardless of the content of the review. Reviews bring the team together, creating a support system that helps the kitchen perform better. Negative reviews not only drive customers away, but they also drop morale, meaning that some staff members might leave, too. Positive reviews can set the bar too high, leaving new customers disappointed and spreading negative word-of-mouth.

Meyer, while he and his staff members have some coping strategies, also said that restaurant critics and restaurants need each other to some degree and, no matter what the reviews are like, he tries to make sure that everything is always done the best that it can be. In the end, he rightly points out, it is the diner that makes the final decision, whether they believe the review or not.

Cane Syrup and Hungarian-Jewish food: NY Times Dining in 60 seconds

Half of the sugar grown in the US comes from Louisiana, so it only makes sense that cooks down there know how to make good use of cane syrup and molasses in addition to regular sugar. The sugar alternatives are especially popular around the holidays, when there are so many sweet treats to be had, including Louisiana Gingerbread (Stage Planks or Mule Bellies) , Cane Syrup Popcorn Balls , and Cane Syrup Cake (Gâteau de Sirop) . (Incidentally, I didn't know that cane syrup over thickly buttered white bread is called a diaper sandwich. But the name would probably stop me from trying it.)

One of the world's largest groups of Hasidic Jews originated Hungary, so it isn't surprising to learn that there is a lot of traditional Hungarian-Jewish food that is popular around the holidays. Dishes like Cheese Danish Pastries (Delkelekh), Hungarian Stuffed-Under-the-Skin Chicken and Hungarian Eggs with Tomatoes, Peppers and Onions (Letcho) are especially popular and making them means not only getting good food, but spending time with family.

The "truffle truck" is the name that chefs have affectionately given to John Magazino's truck, which he uses to deliver truffles, caviar and other ultra-high end foods to the best restaurants in New York.

Au Pied de Cochon - The Album is a cookbook from Marting Picard and the staff at Au Pied de Cochon, full of crazy illustrations and some very high-quality recipes for those who take their pork seriously.

High-end magazines targeted at the customers of high end restaurants claim to be about "lifestyle," but they're really just full of ads.

Frank Bruni dines at Cafe Cluny and gives it 1 star.

Mark Bittman, the minimalist, offers a very quick primer on sugar.

Making it through the holiday season, NY Times Dining in 60 seconds

Worried about how to make it through the holidays with a (hopefully not too unruly) family? The NY Times shares some etiquette tips that should help get you through some sticky situations, but if everyone can just focus on the food and try to be polite - sharing any controversial opinions the next day - everything will go just a little bit more smoothly.

In a piece that rehashes some of Chowhound-founder Jim Leff's background, there is some discussion of groups that splintered off the main boards even before the site was bought by CNET. Some contributors moved to egullet.org and others can be found at Opinionated About Dining and Mouthfulsfood.

A lot goes into finding a really good sommelier. An applicant needs to have wine expertise, passion and enthusiasm - and all must be conveyed to the customers convincingly, but without obsession.

Here's a brief holiday food guide of sweets and savories, along with the names of a couple of mentions of places to find good cookware.

Frank Bruni dines at Porter House New York and gives it one star.

Looking for something really different to do with that raw turkey in the fridge? Mark Bittman, the minimalist, suggests turning it into turkey confit.

Our Daily Bread is a new documentary on the food processing industry. Whether you want to watch depends on what you still want to eat.

Thanksiving Sides and Brooklyn-style Pizza, NY Times Dining in 60 seconds

The "discerning cook" is no longer content with what local supermarkets have to offer (note: although many at least in my area, actually do seem to offer these foods) an is willing to search far and wide for the best of the best ingredients to improve Thanksgiving sides. Among the most sough out foods: pie apples, farm-fresh brussel sprouts on the stalk, high fat butter, Italian chestnuts, cornmeal, organic cranberries, Russet pecans, potatoes, squash and wild rice.

Mark Bittman, the minimalist, shares the secret of baking great bread at home with a surprisingly easy recipe that requires no kneading and produces great results.

Does Domino's Brooklyn-Style pizzas actually compare to a real pizza from Brooklyn? Their pizzas are thinner than the standard, with "large, floppy slices" so big you can fold them in half. Reviews are mixed over how good the Domino's pie is (Adam from SliceNY thought that it was okay), but the bone of contention for New Yorkers seems to be the fact that there is cornmeal in the crust.

Six turkeys - Bourbon Red and American Bronze, heritage birds; farmed "wild" turkeys; organic; "natural"; and Butterball - were cooked up to see which type was the best fro T-day. The conclusion was that, while Heritage, organic and natural birds came out slightly ahead of the rest, the key factors are cooking time and temperature.

Some Chilean sea bass, namely that from one sea bass fishery in the South Georgia and South Sandwich Islands in the South Atlantic near Antarctica, is sustainable and Whole Foods is carrying it again.

Frank Bruni eats at Picholine and gives it 3 stars.

The Cookbook Issue, NY Times Dining in 60 seconds

The Joy of Cooking is the most popular cookbook in America for good reason. It been around since the 1930s and, since that time, has instructed millions on how do to everything from boiling an egg to baking a cake in a no-nonsense way. Since its original publication, the book has been reissued several times with updates that attempt to encompass the various culinary changes that have taken place in between book releases. Is the newest 75th anniversary edition just forced nostalgia? Perhaps, but that's why the good thing about cookbooks is that you don't need to discard the old one when you buy a new copy.

When looking for old cookbooks, the choices that some people make seem surprising, opting for Pillsbury's Best 1000 Recipes: Best of the Bake-Off Collection over Julia Child, but the real reason is that the recipes are classic, homey and probably things that your mother made - all of which are huge selling points.

Take a look at some of the new books that explore Southeast Asian cooking.

Terra Madre, an international culinary event held in Italy over the last week, celebrated slow cooking

Dulcinea Rosso Bruno are tomatoes that are best in fall.

Frank Bruni dines at Boqueria and gives it two stars.

If you're going to write about Trader Joe's in a major newspaper...

I'm beginning to get the impression that writing about Trader Joe's is some sort of fall-back for food writers who don't have any other good ideas. On the surface, this seems like a good idea. There are plenty of good things to say about it and they come out with new things frequently, most of which are worth a mention. Unfortunately, the new things - products, store locations, etc - aren't what seem to attract the press. They seem to enjoy writing about how they are or are not impressed with the store and why it is popular.

Here is yet another article from an east coast paper where the author wondered why Trader Joe's was so popular, tried it and decided that it was a store worth visiting, at least from time to time. The problem with the piece is that the Washington DC area already has several Trader Joe's locations, so the chance that this revelation is actually news to residents, or to anyone else who has shopped at Trader Joe's, is slight.

Continue reading If you're going to write about Trader Joe's in a major newspaper...

Supermarket Shopping: NY Times Dining in 60 seconds

New York supermarkets are grimy and disappointing after a summer of farmer's markets, but you can find some foods that aren't completely worthless: Steel cut Irish oatmeal, Cabot sharp cheddar cheese, Progresso Lentil Soup, Walker's Shortbread, Total Greek Yogurt. Unfortunately, Moskin doesn't share which market she went to, so it may be hard to find all of her picks at home without searching a few places. While you're shopping, you might want to pick up some basics for your pantry, too.

Supermarkets are making changes to hold on to customers that are increasingly shopping elsewhere. They are increasing prepared and specialty food selections, adding new services, offering high-tech gadgets to aid consumers, and vastly increasing the quality and selection of their produce.

The secret to a good basic salad is more oil, less vinegar and lots of salt. If you don't want something quite so basic, try Dandelion, Bacon and Egg Salad, Apple Cranberry and Goat Cheese Salad or Chicken and Parsnip Salad.

Couscous was developed in the middle ages and is still made in much the same way as it was, not to mention that it is a staple of many diets

Tis the season for making soup with dumplings, preferably ones that use Matzoh.

Fran Bruni dines at Freemans and gives it a "satisfactory".

Mark Bittman, the minimalist, makes Mongolian stir-fried lamb.

Tea and Espresso: NY Times Dining in 60 seconds

After 100 years of tea bags filled with a decreasing quality of leaf, tea makers are seeing an upsurge in sales when they decide to upgrade the quality of their product. Premium teas were once sold only loose-leaf, but even small producers are bagging their wares - and with great success. Lipton, one of the largest tea producers, is putting long-leaf teas into a new line of bags, too.

Apparently, knowing how to make an espresso, or to do latte art, is now worthy of an "artisanal" tag, though they baristas aren't always the ones roasting the beans themselves and the label is usually about the production process, not the packaging.

Ferran Adria likes to "do new things with old concepts" and, after starting almost by accident at the age of 21, he has made El Bulli one of the most renowned restaurants in the world and has cemented his reputation as a master of food, magic and science.

Kung fu tea is tea that strives for perfection and requires the brewer (and server) to have an exceptional knowledge of brewing times, the quantity and type of leaf and temperatures. But it also requires someone who really knows tea to appreciate it.

Frank Bruni dines at Trestle on Tenth and gives it one star.

Mark Bittman, the minimalist, grills some chicken.

The restaurant preview issue: NY Times Dining in 60 seconds

From the sound of it, everyone who's anyone is opening a restaurant in New York, from Graydon Carter (editor of Vanity Fair) to chefs like Gordon Ramsey. Hotel restaurants are getting revamped to compete with non-hotel restaurants and chefs who haven't been seen for years, like Michael Lomonaco, the chef from Windows on the World, the restaurant at the World Trade Center.

As chefs and restaurants try to turn names into global brands, they are either bringing branches of existing restaurants to New York, or taking them out of New York and to other parts of the country. Is the dining scene in NY loosing some of its individuality? And do you have to be a multi-national powerhouse to make it in the city?

Last year's hits and misses and what it's like in the kitchen at Buddakan.

September restaurant openings, including a bar that is staffed by women in designer bikinis, and openings to look forward to later in fall.

Frank Bruni dines at Japonais and gives it 1 star.

Mark Bittman, the minimalist, makes blueberry cobbler.

Broadway Panhandler

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Tip of the Day

With a few simple steps, you can make sure your mushrooms are caramelized rather than oil-filled and steamed.

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