"minimalist" news and stories

Attention all people-who-would-really-love-to-make-bread-but-just-can't-find-the-time: The New York Time's Mark Bittman, AKA "The Minimalist" has figured out how to make no-knead bread even easier. Just add more yeast.

Bittman, who made no-knead bread inventor Jim Lahey a foodie household name when he first published his recipes two years ago, knows that Lahey himself wouldn't approve. Lahey thinks bread is best fermented slowly with just a small amount of yeast. But while Bittman's may not taste quite as good (which he freely admits), it only takes four and a half hours to rise. So basically you could mix the dough in the afternoon before a dinner party and have fresh hot bread to pass around the table with your beef tenderloin and roasted new potatoes.

All you need is a standard loaf pan. Check out the recipe here.

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I wanted to tell Mark Bittman that I own his entire cookbook collection, and that I read his blog and columns religiously -- but I didn't. I admire Bittman, the Minimalist for the New York Times, so much precisely because he wouldn't give a hoot either way. In fact, he didn't even seem to care whether we finished our interview after two disconnects (I, however, frantically scrambled from corner to corner of my room praying for better reception). He has a straightforwardness that I think translates remarkably into recipes, and he is my go-to source for breads, soups and countless other basics. For a taste of the bluntness (and I would say, brilliance) that put Bittman on the foodie map, read on.

You just returned from Europe. How did your blogging for [your new blog] Bitten affect your trip?

I would say it affected it by me writing fewer emails. I spent more time blogging, but I didn't spend more time at the computer really.

When you write your New York Times column, your audience is already decided for you. Do you envision a different audience when writing your cookbooks or for your blog?

I think the answer is no. I think I pretty much do what I do. It's not as if I don't take my audience into account, but people who like I what I do are going to find me and read me by any means. I'm not saying, "Oh I'm writing a blog so I have to a different style." I wouldn't know how to do that anyway.

I've recognized some of the recipes on the blog from your cookbooks, how do you choose which ones to post?

Actually most of the recipes that have been on the blog are former Minimalist columns, the Recipes of the Day are being drawn from Minimalist Columns that have been in the New York Times Book – Quick and Easy Recipes from the New York Times. The ones that are called "What I had for dinner" are literally that and they may or not be variations of something I've done before. But they haven't been "let me take this recipe out of How to Cook Everything and throw it on the blog." I'm not saying it won't be that, but I don't feel the need yet.

Good, fresh bread is one of life's great pleasures, at least in my opinion. I love to go to a great bakery and pick up a loaf for a special occasion. I wish I could do that every day, but I know it would go bad in my house. We just don't go through bread fast enough.

It would be even better if I could bake bread at home. I love to bake. Bread is usually just so time consuming and it rarely turns out at home like it does at the bakery.

I was reminded this week of an article I read in the New York Times food section from about a year ago that may change my mind. The Minimalist, Mark Bittman, interviewed/apprenticed with the owner of Sullivan Street Bakery, Jim Lahey. Together, they made a loaf using Mr. Lahey's innovative new method for making bread. The idea is to stir everything together(no kneading or anything), let it ferment (the yeast eats the flour to make alcohol and carbon dioxide) for a very long time, then bake it in a cast iron or ceramic covered pot.

The covered pot becomes a steamer once in the oven so you can get bakery level results from stuff you probably already have. The Minimalist had said that this is innovative, and it is. The only thing you need to make good, fresh bread at home is time, and a few things you more than likely have in your kitchen. The recipe and procedure are after the jump.

This week, a slight departure from pure food and dining with a story on where animals that were once destined for the dinner plate actually go for sanctuary. Also, beef jerky becomes haute cuisine, sort of.

In the kitchen, Mark Bittman does chicken wings and blackberries come into season.

On the dining scene, Frank Bruni vists Perilla, the restaurant by Top Chef winner Harold Dieterle, gluten-free menus are becoming more popular, and the best way to eat during the summer is a series of starters.

Sonoma Foie Gras, a California company, is going on the offensive by threatening Whole Foods with legal action for pressuring some if it's suppliers to discontinue their sale of foie gras. Whole Foods has a written policy against cruelty and does not carry the delicacy. The chain would prefer to do business with companies who do not support the industry.

Give the tradition of lambic beers, which are naturally fermented with airborne yeast, a try instead of relying the antiseptic modern brews. They have a unique dry, tart flavor that develops into fruityness as the beers mature and are blended together. They pair well with strawberry rhubarb tart.

American Italian food remembers its roots with dishes like fried calamari and fettuccini alfredo, offering diners something refreshingly familiar: big servings, thick and delicious tomato sauces and lots of atmosphere. Frank Bruni picks his favorites.

Sometimes the development of a 3-star dessert starts with something old - like a recipe from Catherine de Medici - but in the hands of a master chef, sweet and savory still make new and wonderful combinations.

The Minimalist, Mark Bittman, prepares fried fish with fried ginger.

Frank Bruni dines at Buddakan, with a two star review.

 

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