Michael Bauer, the restaurant critic for the SF Chronicle, brought up the subject of service charges at restaurants on his blog. Tipping, whether you like it or not, is still the standard in the US and diners are used to it. Up until recently, the only time that a service charge was included on the bill in lieu of a tip was when you had a very large party out for dinner. Some restaurants, notably higher-end places like Chez Panisse and Per Se, have flat-rate service charged tacked on to the bill regardless of how many diners are in your party, streamlining the process for those footing the bill and giving the restaurant staff an ample enough fee that some of that charge can be diverted to "tip" the back of the house staff.

More recently, in a strange hybrid between the two styles of gratuity payment, at least one restaurant has begun to add on a service charge to cover the back of the house, while expecting customers to tip the waitstaff. Incanto, in San Francisco, is the example that Bauer pointed to. He noticed that they added a 5% service charge to his bill with no explanation. When he asked his waiter, he was told that it was supposed to be in addition to the normal tip, although some customers deducted it from what they would usually leave. Clearly, having both additional fees wasn't working out well for the front of the house staff even if it did benefit those in the kitchen.

As Bauer points out, it sounds like we may be reaching a turning point in this country when it comes to tipping. He says he is "beginning to edge closer to the opinion that maybe an automatic service charge should be applied, or that prices of the menu should fully compensate the staff." It certainly sounds like a reasonable solution.

I am a big fan of the SF Chronicle's Michael Bauer's blog, Between Meals, and have mentioned issues that he has brought up before. His post yesterday was particularly interesting though, bringing up the issue of whether food critics should somehow be licensed, after a commenter mentioned that there was a lack of standards in the industry.  Such a task, however, might be nearly impossible. Would "taste" be judged? Writing ability? Tests could be implemented in all industries, but the reality of working is that the best way to get good at something is to do it - over and over again. Writers have to write and chefs have to cook. Critics have to learn how to convey the unique experience of dining at a restaurant to their readers because chefs do not all use identical recipes and there is no one "right" way to make a marinara sauce.

As Bauer rightly points out, "Good chefs rise to the top, and good critics develop a following." A good critic's readers can trust what they write and use their recommendation as a means to decide when to try (or not to try) a restaurant. Of the skills a critic needs - ability, knowledge and passion - only one can be taught or tested, while the others come naturally and over time.

The standards of taste are not hard and fast rules and people look to critics to create a baseline, a jumping off point from which they can form their own judgments. The only hard and fast rules I want to see are the ones that the health department enforces.

Last week, Nicole posted about San Francisco Chronicle food editor Michael Bauer's new food blog, Between Meals. If you haven't already, by all means check out his post about the factors he takes into consideration upon reviewing a restaurant. Whether you're a fledgling restaurant critic, an involved diner or just someone who wants more insight into the mind of a food writer, Bauer's list is a great glimpse. It should also serve as a helpful reminder to restaurant staff, especially the front of the house, that in many cases, not a single detail goes unnoticed.

[Via Amuse-Bouche, which was equally fond of Bauer's post.]

Michael Bauer, the San Francisco Chronicle's food and wine editor, as well as their restaurant critic, has just launched a blog, following in the footsteps of the New York Times' Frank Bruni and his blog. Bauer's blog is called Between Meals and has been up and running for about 1 week now. So far, he has included a list of the ten noisiest restaurants in the Bay Area (Town Hall and A16 are the worst offenders), following up on posts about the rising noise levels in eateries. The best part of the blog, though, is the FAQ, where Bauer answers reader-submitted questions about his life, the review process and about what makes him qualified to be a restaurant critic.

Will other critics soon jump on the blogging bandwagon?