'Antojitos: Festive and Flavorful Mexican Small Plates'
by Barbara Sibley and Margaritte Malfy with Mary Goodbody
Photography by Lucy Schaeffer Ten Speed Press -- 2009 Buy it on Amazon
Antojitos, as Barbara Sibley and Margaritte Malfy explain in their book of the same name, are small bites sometimes eaten as appetizers in Mexican cuisine and sometime just downed as a street snack to satisfy between-meals hunger pangs.
The owners of New York City's La Palapa have written a book that covers all manner of these spicy snacks -- from empanadas and tacos to ceviches and mole. Along the way, they give brief stories about the dishes as well as menus perfect for any fiesta, and colorful pages filled with images of Loteria cards and stock Mexican art that add a whimsical touch to the cookbook.
See what we tested and whether it's worth buying after the jump.
Enchiladas are arguably the most comforting of all Mexican entrees. Perhaps that's because they most closely resemble a casserole -- with protein, grains and vegetables all baked together and topped with delicious, flavorful red sauce and a layer of melted cheese.
Whether filled with beef, pork, chicken, fish, cheese, beans or any combination of those ingredients, enchiladas can often be complicated dishes, like these with homemade sauce and fresh cilantro from Flickr user purdyinblue. But the Mexican one-pot meal is also a great way to feed lots of people with very little effort, especially if you use a Dorito-encrusted recipe from the likes of Emeril Lagasse... or Charlie Gibson, depending on who you ask.
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Xoco's churros are hard to get. Photo: ehfisher/flicker.
Would you wait three days for a "Top Chef" churro?
Rick Bayless, one of Chicago's top chefs and the winner of Bravo's "Top Chef Masters," is extending his gourmet Mexican empire to street food. Last week, he added XOCO (pronounced "Sho-Co") to his string of Windy City hot spots including Frontera Grill and Topolobampo. The latest aims to bring authentic Mexican tortas and caldos (sandwiches and soups) to the masses. How did it go over with the locals? The line snaked out the door.
When Slashfood swung by for after-dinner churros -- the delectable fried-dough treats sprinkled with sugar and spices -- it took three nights of trying to get in.
'Guac Off: Rules & Recipes for Becoming Guacamole Champion of the World' by Nathan Myers Photographs by Jeremiah Webster Chronicle Books 2009 Buy it on Amazon Making that beloved standby, guacamole, is a simple enough task when fresh avocados are on hand, relying only on the chef's personal whims and a dash of imagination.
In the case of Nathan Myers' "Guac Off," however, we are reminded of the limitations of imagination when it comes to a classic recipe. A loving ode to the avocado, the book is comprised of three parts: a history of the fruit, guidelines for hosting a "Guac Off" competition and a selection of recipes ranging from the tried-and-true to the dangerously exotic (hard-boiled eggs and cranberries, anyone?).
The background info is fascinating, delineating the dip's roots as what the Aztecs called "testicle sauce," for its purported fertile and aphrodisiac powers. Tips are downright dopey, advising cooks that "Silly hats should be worn on an 'as needed' basis," or that a culinary task should be approached "with the wily ferocity of a cornered tiger."
What we tested and whether the book's worth buying, after the jump.
Man. Now that is a torta. If a picture is worth a thousand words, then what you're seeing is an eloquent argument for why the Mexican sandwich is deserving of its own banh mi-like renaissance. Snapped -- and then inhaled -- by a reader at Midtown Lunch, this appears to be an elegantly and satisfyingly proportioned combination of sirloin, avocado, cheese and tomato, anointed with just a whisper of creamy dressing. The Web site's name notwithstanding, this is a sandwich that could easily encompass breakfast, lunch and dinner, leaving room for only a Mexican Coke or, better yet, an ice-cold Negra Modelo. Apologies if you were planning something, y'know, light for lunch.
Margaritas are lovely, yes, but sometimes the liver needs a break. And Mexico, of course, is no one-trick culinary pony. In fact, while ambling through the famously taco- and torta-laden neighborhood of Sunset Park, Brooklyn, last weekend, a compadre proselytized wildly about a maple-walnut popsicle right before running into traffic to lead us to the deli where it lived.
Traditionally no friend to the walnut unless it is candied, we were inclined to pass. Then we noticed that in this popsicle, walnuts were a minor player relegated to the stick end of the treat. We politely accepted a small bite. And then another.
And then we turned on our heel and ran back to the deli to rummage frantically through the cooler gleaming on the sidewalk: mango-lime, pistachio, egg nog. Egg nog?! Walnut! Where was it? Pops flew everywhere as, like a dog frantically chasing a mole burrowing underground, we went shoulder-deep into the icy cooler. Thank the stars, a lone, innocuous "nuez" pop remained.
These gorgeous, golden-brown churros look so enticing we can practically feel their crinkly, sugar-studded skins melting on our tongues. Though their shape deviates from that of tubular churros -- traditional Mexican treats of deep-fried dough rolled in cinnamon and sugar -- we can't really say that we care. What matters is that they look sweet, crunchy goodness personified ... or like history's most gloriously demonic matzoh balls.
The Amateur Gourmet's Adam Roberts describes these beauties as "The Churros That Saved The Dinner Party." We think he's being too modest. These look like the churros that could save the world, or at least a small principality.
There are many dishes in which the sauce can overwhelm the rest of the meal. But mole is not just a sauce; it's also the focal point of the dish. The meat that accompanies the mole plays a secondary role. Mole consists of nuts, chilies, and spices that are toasted and ground to release their spicy-sweet aroma. Mole poblano from the state of Puebla is also made with chocolate. Hence, its nickname chocolate sauce.
The word "mole" derives from the Náhuatl (language that dates back to the Aztecs) word "molli". The process of making mole is lengthy and it usually involves toasting ingredients, slow-roasting, pureeing, and frying fresh herbs. But, at the end, you have a dish full of deliciously complex tastes, a rollercoaster of flavors. And, if you're looking for the most thrilling gastronomic ride, head to the city of Oaxaca, known as the "Land of Seven Moles."
In Zarela Martinez's book "Food & Life of Oaxaca", renowned Mexican chef shares an incredible recipe for Teotitlan-style black mole. Another recipe to try out is turkey enchiladas with mole sauce. I have just recently been exposed to this fascinating sauce, and I cannot stop thinking about its richness and the fact that there are so many more for versions for me to try.
Sometimes, nothing hits the spot the way a good restauran taco does (I'm not talking about authentic tacos, but more like those that are one step up from Taco Bell). These platter of tacos reminds me of the sorts of dishes I'd get at La Casita when I was in college. Walla Walla had a small chain (if you can consider two location a chain) of locally owned Mexican restaurants that were great when we wanted unlimited, freshly made tortilla chips and delicious tacos (if we were broke, we could get even cheaper and more authentic tacos at one of the nearby taco trucks).
I'm not sure there is a baked dish that's quite as simple as vegetable pudding. Cook and mash your vegetables, add some other tasty ingredients, top with cheese, and bake. In no time at all, you will have a sizzling side dish or tasty main. It's perfect for leftover-using, less pan-dirtying, and quick post-work meals.
The following dish comes from Mexican Border Flavors: The Beautiful Cookbook. Beautiful indeed -- a big honking book with a ton of Mexican recipes and pictures on its large, glossy pages. Budin de Calabacita, or Zucchini Pudding, is a mixture of mashed zucchini, cheese, and crackers that gets mixed, thrown into a dish, and baked.
Since I was cooking for one, I halved the recipe (except the egg) and threw the mix into 2 ramekins, which I found more appealing than scooping and slopping it onto my plate post-baking. In this meal, you really taste the crackers, so it's the perfect dish for flavorful crackers and crumbs -- maybe even some croutons, as well as good spicy flavor, whether from spices alone, or maybe some sauteed garlic and onions.
Guajillo chiles, common in Mexican recipes, are a moderately spicy chile, usually found dried in Hispanic markets. Brick red guajillos have an interesting smoke-and-spices flavor, which some liken to burnt chocolate. I personally think they smell a bit like fresh tobacco (I grew up in Durham, North Carolina, where I could smell the brightleaf from cigarette factories downtown), and love the way they add complexity to the simplest of dishes.
The best way to cook with the guajillo is to toast it lightly to draw out and deepen the flavors. Lay a few chiles at a time in a cast iron pan over medium-high heat, toasting for a few seconds on each side, until the chile begins to inflate and gives off a strong scent. Remove the stems and seeds before using.
I like to put the toasted guajillos in the blender with cooked tomatillos and a bit of salt for an easy, striking sauce for roast pork or chicken.
I'm posting images of sausage counters the world over each weeknight (and occasionally weekend) witching hour (until I run out), so please use the comments section to post links to your Flickr or personal site faves, and perhaps you'll see 'em posted here late some evening.
"I already ate dinner...Oh, BYOT? Did you say BYOT?!?! I'll be there in 10 minutes."
Such was my end of the mobile conversation with my sister last night when she called me over to her place for dinner. Not only had I already eaten a huge meal just before she called, but it was also Mexican food. That all went out the driver side window when she said "BYOT." When anyone in my family does BYOT, everyone and their mothers (literally) shows up.
BYOT in my Delicious family stands for "Build Your Own Taco," which isn't anything earth-shatteringly new or innovative. It just happens that BYOT is perfectly appropriate for a Super Bowl party because 1) the food is not difficult to prepare, and 2) as a "Southwestern-style" food, it matches the Super Bowl XLII's host city, Phoenix, Arizona. It doesn't hurt, either, that BYOT is highly customizable to your and your guests' tastes. It can be comprehensive, vegetarian, or even a little gourmet.
All you have to do is prep the components and set them up as a buffet. Your guests will do all the work of putting their tacos together.
Tortillas - We typically go with hard taco shells made from yellow corn tortillas, but you can also offer soft flour and corn tortillas, flat tostada shells, or if people are picky about carbs, nothing. They can make "salads" in bowls or on plates, and you can make fun of them for being "healthy" at a Super Bowl party. Remember that while people can eat regular tacos with their hands, tostadas and "bowls" mean you have to offer silverware.
Meat - Protein choices for tacos are plenty. My sister likes ground beef with the requisite taco seasoning, but we have done carne asada, carnitas, and grilled chicken. You can do grilled fish or shrimp, and if there are vegetarians on your guest list, you may want to provide black or refried beans.
Cheese - Go with any cheese you like, and shred it. If your cheese squirts out of a can, we can't help you.
Vegetables - The standards are shredded Iceberg lettuce, diced fresh tomatoes, chopped onions, and black olives. Don't get too fancy with vegetables. If you start grilling peppers and onions, you're crossing that fine line into fajita territory.
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