'Antojitos: Festive and Flavorful Mexican Small Plates'
by Barbara Sibley and Margaritte Malfy with Mary Goodbody
Photography by Lucy Schaeffer Ten Speed Press -- 2009 Buy it on Amazon
Antojitos, as Barbara Sibley and Margaritte Malfy explain in their book of the same name, are small bites sometimes eaten as appetizers in Mexican cuisine and sometime just downed as a street snack to satisfy between-meals hunger pangs.
The owners of New York City's La Palapa have written a book that covers all manner of these spicy snacks -- from empanadas and tacos to ceviches and mole. Along the way, they give brief stories about the dishes as well as menus perfect for any fiesta, and colorful pages filled with images of Loteria cards and stock Mexican art that add a whimsical touch to the cookbook.
See what we tested and whether it's worth buying after the jump.
These gorgeous, golden-brown churros look so enticing we can practically feel their crinkly, sugar-studded skins melting on our tongues. Though their shape deviates from that of tubular churros -- traditional Mexican treats of deep-fried dough rolled in cinnamon and sugar -- we can't really say that we care. What matters is that they look sweet, crunchy goodness personified ... or like history's most gloriously demonic matzoh balls.
The Amateur Gourmet's Adam Roberts describes these beauties as "The Churros That Saved The Dinner Party." We think he's being too modest. These look like the churros that could save the world, or at least a small principality.
There are many dishes in which the sauce can overwhelm the rest of the meal. But mole is not just a sauce; it's also the focal point of the dish. The meat that accompanies the mole plays a secondary role. Mole consists of nuts, chilies, and spices that are toasted and ground to release their spicy-sweet aroma. Mole poblano from the state of Puebla is also made with chocolate. Hence, its nickname chocolate sauce.
The word "mole" derives from the Náhuatl (language that dates back to the Aztecs) word "molli". The process of making mole is lengthy and it usually involves toasting ingredients, slow-roasting, pureeing, and frying fresh herbs. But, at the end, you have a dish full of deliciously complex tastes, a rollercoaster of flavors. And, if you're looking for the most thrilling gastronomic ride, head to the city of Oaxaca, known as the "Land of Seven Moles."
In Zarela Martinez's book "Food & Life of Oaxaca", renowned Mexican chef shares an incredible recipe for Teotitlan-style black mole. Another recipe to try out is turkey enchiladas with mole sauce. I have just recently been exposed to this fascinating sauce, and I cannot stop thinking about its richness and the fact that there are so many more for versions for me to try.
I'm posting images of sausage counters the world over each weeknight (and occasionally weekend) witching hour (until I run out), so please use the comments section to post links to your Flickr or personal site faves, and perhaps you'll see 'em posted here late some evening.
That's mole as in "mo-lay," not mole as in "Whack-a-Mole" at Chuck E. Cheese. But be not mistaken, making the former is no less difficult than playing the latter.
Mole is a traditional Mexican sauce that has a reputation of being rather difficult to make, not because the technique is all that complicated, but because there are over 30 ingredients and according to Matt Armendariz of food blog MattBites who finally attempted to make the sauce himself, at least 43 steps in making it. Just a few of the ingredients, which seem strange, but are essential to the sauce are chiles (not surprising), nuts (still not quite surprising), ripe plaintains, raisins, bread and tortillas as thickeners, chocolate and cinnamon! Matt does a quick history of mole, talks about his grandmother's mole, and shares the recipe he used to make it at home, which comes from Bon Appetit magazine.
Cinco de Mayo is this coming Friday, and it's an excuse to indulge in more than our fair share of Coronas,
margaritas, and of course, food. But as many people may know, Mexican food isn't always considered to be all
that light and healthy. Heck, a basket of chips and salsa could put you well over your daily calorie needs in one
tequila-fueled haze. The American Heart
Association lists a few tips to keep your health in check when you're shouting out "Ole!"
Instead of flour tortillas, which are often made with lard, opt for corn tortillas, which can contain little
to no fat.
Choose grilled chicken, fish or shrimp over fried carnitas (beef or pork) or chorizo (sausage).
Rather than refried beans (this is always the killer for me), go for frijoles a la charra or
borracho (simmered in liquid).
Sour cream, cheese, and guacamole can be replaced with as much flavor from good salsa, pico de gallo, and
fresh chopped cilantro, onions, and japalenos.
Instead of a plain quesadilla, order fajitas and stick with the tips above for corn tortillas and salsa
If you get a "taco salad," resist eating the shell
So I forced one of my friends to snatch a copy of this past Sunday's edition of the San Francisco Chronicle with the knowledge that the Sunday magazine would have the
annual Bay Area Top 100
Restaurants. I got it in the mail this morning, and was excited to look through it, but the first thing that caught
my eye was the story about a Burrito Eater.
Charles Hodgkins is the Burrito Eater. His website, www.burritoeater.com, is basically a food blog in which he chronicles his quest
for the "nine mustache" (out of 10) rated burrito in the Bay Area, ranging from Baja Fresh to holes in the
wall. When he started, he thought he would have hit them all by the time he had eaten from 50 or 60 taquerias, but he
says that there are over 170 places to get a burrito from a walk-up style stand. His top two favorites are Taqueria San
Francisco and Papalote.
I wonder if Charles has ever pondered the idea of coming to Los Angeles.
If ever you've torn open a bag of Doritos, or dived into a mountain of nachos, or simply scooped up your
favorite gucamole with a tortilla
chip, you have Rebecca Webb Carranza to thank.
Rebecca Webb Carranza passed away in mid January, but is remembered for pioneering the machine-manufacture of
tortillas in the late 1940s. When once tortillas were made by hand, Carranza's El Zarape Tortilla Factory was pumping
them out more than 12 times faster. Sometimes, the machines were turn out slightly misshapen tortillas. Carranza cut
her factory-rejected tortillas into wedges and deep-fried them for a party. Thus, the tortilla chip was born.
By the 1960s, the tortilla chips were being made and sold commercially. Thank you for inventing one of my all-time
favorite snacks, Rebecca!
But Chipotle didn't just blend in with the lot of them. They had a twist. Chipotle went beyond Baja Fresh's
menu of no microwave ovens nor can openers, and served a very simple menu, with ingredients in front of you, sort
of like a hybrid of In n Out's minimalistic menu and Subway sandwich artistry before your eyes. I went a Chipotle kick
for about six months, but got bored a little with a rather narrow menu.
Now, the business, which launched in 1993, has just gone public, and the founder, Steve Ells, has found himself
worth $44 million (share prices doubled on IPO day). Ells originally thought the fast-food burrito place
would be the "cash cow" to fund his dream of opening a high-end restaurant after studying at the CIA and
cooking at Stars in San Francisco. Ha. He could probably buy a restaurant or a half-dozen now.
Who knew a little dried pepper could be worth $44 million?
"Drupe" is the botanical term for a fruit with an
exocarp and fleshy mesocarp surrounding a hardened endocarp that protects a seed inside. In other words, a drupe is a
stone fruit. Peaches, nectarines, plums.
But be not mistaken, not all fruits that have a hard center and a fleshy outside are drupes, and fruits
that you'd never guess were drupes, in fact, are. I thought I was brilliant when I thought an avocado was a drupe because technically, an avocado is a fruit, but
it's not a drupe. An avocado is a berry. But there are berries that are really drupes. Blackberries
and raspberries, also known as bramblefruits, are aggregates of little drupelets.
Dice a couple of mangoes, which is a drupe, a couple of avocadoes, which is a
berry, a couple of tomatoes (also a berry) and toss it with cut grilled shrimp, a squeeze of
lime juice, minced garlic, salt, and pepper. If you
are so inclined, add a splash of tequila. Serve with tortilla chips, and I guess if
you think about it, you're eating one hell of a fruit cocktail!