"localfood" news and stories

• Be still our anise-loving hearts -- the newfound love for now-legal absinthe, and just what to do with the divine beverage.
• Uh ... would you consider Lays potato chips to be local food?
• Last weekend's Tofu Takedown -- one in a long line of new competitions -- Risotto Challenge, Chowder Slam, Cassoulet Cook-Off. ...
• Sea urchins get trendy and gourmet.
• We never thought swine could be so powerful -- pigs transform Eastern Europe.
• The French speak out on the art of rosés and the possibility of laxer wine rules.
• Two-Minute Squid: a recipe for Spicy Calamari with Tomato, Caperberries and Pine Nuts.
• You could praise the 50th anniversary of Manhattan's Four Seasons restaurant, or you can roast 'em.
• Should we be worrying as much as we do about food safety and food-related scares?
• Crespelle -- Italy's version of a crepe.
• The Minimalist explores asparagus and the flavor of Spring.
• Reviews: Fatty Crab is good for the giddy, maybe not for the rest. The mediocre markets of Bouley and Get Fresh Table.
• Food Stuff: Hydroponic Greens, Funky Truffles, Chicken Nuggets.
• New restaurant openings and the dining calendar.

Today, Slashfood wishes prominent food writer, speaker, and celebrity Michael Pollan happy birthday. Pollan's revolutionary and compelling arguments about the direction of the food industry continues to influence both food enthusiasts and politicians. The Omnivore's Dillemma has become somewhat of a bible for gourmands, farmers, and people simply concerned with reforming the modern food chain.

When I think of the trend to eat local I think of Pollan and his impressive impact on American food culture. It's no wonder that on May 8, 2007, the James Beard Foundation named The Omnivore's Dilemma its 2007 winner for the best food writing. Recently, Pollan published In Defense of Food: An Eater's Manifesto which reveals the relationship with what he terms "nutritionism" and the "Western diet." Recently, he is investigating practices of the meat industry.

While Pollan did not initiate the current discourse on food, he has contributed enormously to it. Pollan's work on the food industry and trends in American agriculture have drastically opened up people's minds when thinking about how to eat. In 2002, he received the Reuters World Conservation Union Global Awards in environmental journalism.

• Speed dating has made its way to the world of food producers and chefs ... but not for dates. It's all for the love of local food.
• 250th anniversaries, Robbie Burns, and haggis.
• Foodie football feats in mid-town Manhattan at Zereoue.
• Word of mouth makes the red wine, Fuzion, fly off the shelves.
• Restaurant Reviews: Czehoski offers good food and random bouts of dancing, and Forte Bistro and Lounge offers manly financial style with rock star lobster sandwiches.
• Wine, Pt 1: Parri Estate 2007 Viognier/Chardonnay, Fairhall Downs Single Vineyard 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, Don Eugenio Reserva 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, La Moras Black Label 2005 Shiraz, Joffré E. Hijas Premium 2004 Merlot
• Wine, Pt 2: X & Y 2006 Chardonnay, Etko Nefeli 2007 White, Domaine De La Croze Granier Cuvée Réserve 2006, Perrin & Fils Vinsobres Les Cornuds 2006, Western Range Julimar 2006 Shiraz/Viognier
  
• Recipes: Garlic-Studded Pork Tenderloin with Mojo and Minted Eggplant

Just a few days ago, I noted my love for highly specific food traditions, tied to holidays and celebrations -- hoppin' john on New Year's Day, king cake on Mardi Gras, mint juleps on Derby Day. So, it seemed foolhardy not to avail myself of a Moravian Love Feast bun when I had the chance, seeing as how I was in North Carolina, and my in-laws have been attending the Christmas Eve Wesley Memorial United Methodist Church's Love Feast since back when Rudolph was a fawn. I'm not, by habit, a churchgoing gal, but was assured that all (even long-lapsed Catholic school girls like me) are welcome to share in the ritual.

What the heck is a Love Feast, you ask? Well, according to North Carolina and Old Salem Cookery (1955):

No church service is more distinctive than a Moravian love feast. Love feasts are held in connection with holidays such as Christmas, New Year's, Easter and on days of special significance to the church such as church anniversaries and a day set aside to honor missionaries.

During the love feast, each person in the church receives a large, flat yeast bun and a mug of coffee containing cream and sugar.

The love feast is symbolic of the fellowship of the church. The idea behind the simple meal is that those who break bread together are united in the fellowship the way a family is.

While there are regional variations in the components of the feast -- some congregations subbing in warm cider or hot Russian tea for the coffee, or embossing an "M" on the bun tops, rather than the Moravian star seen in the image above -- the recipe invariably calls for the inclusion of mashed potatoes. As a choir or orchestra performs, the buns are passed in baskets throughout the congregation, followed by cups of the hot beverage. After these have been collected, beeswax candles -- decorated with red paper frills to catch dripping -- are distributed to the assembled, lit from wick to wick, and carried in procession out of the church.

Two bun recipes after the jump.

Does your grocery bag include a freshly baked baguette and locally grown basil and apples? The trend to consume high-quality artisanal foods persists despite the increasing costs of basic foods worldwide. A recent article from the Irish Independent explains that Ireland is going local and organic. According to recent studies, almost half of Irish grocery shoppers have purchased an organic product in the last month. Annual sales in organic produce alone exceed 100 million pounds.

Just this month, there will be a series of events in Ireland promoting local and organic produce, meat, bread, and cheese. The first one begins this weekend in Dublin at Marks & Spencer where grocery shoppers will have the opportunity to meet the farmers producing local produce. The next is National Organic Week when there will be a series of events on farms. Next weekend is the Septemberfest Food and Drinks Fair. September is an important month for Irish produce and they're taking every opportunity to enjoy it.

According to this article, buying organic in Ireland seems to imply local. In the U.S., buying organic is not necessarily environmentally friendly, because it often means that products from another part of the country or globe are flown and/or driven to your food store. I would encourage many of us this month to do as the Irish do - explore the incredible diverse produce that's available locally. September is a great month for American produce too.