We've all heard about CSAs - Community-Supported Agriculture - and many of us have participated in CSA programs in our towns. Essentially, you fork over some cash (usually from $500 to $800), and each month, you get a bounty of whatever fruits and veggies are in season, courtesy of a locally-owned farm.
For some people, the boxes of produce are as close to they get to the farm, though they can feel secure in knowing that they're supporting their local farmers and not supporting grocery store-sold produce. Other CSA participants go a step further and purchase a small piece of the actual farm, which they visit and keep up themselves.
My question: why is the New York Timesjust now learning about this? A recent article on CSAs calls it "a loose but growing network," making it sound as if they just stumbled upon the movement yesterday. Really? I have friends who have been participating in these programs for years. Perhaps it's just new in more rural areas?
In the meantime, I will continue to enjoy locally-grown veggies, and go back to my love/hate relationship with the Times.
The feature story this week is on the "greening" of Chicago, with farmers' markets returning to new locations with sustainable produce. The Tribune shares some tips for shopping at the farmers' market, as well as recipes from cookbooks that focus on market fresh produce: Scallops with three peas and prosciutto from Blue Eggs and Yellow Tomatoes, Savory mashed potatoes with garden herbs from Rosalind Creasy's Recipes from the Garden, Butter Lettuce Salad from Fresh, and Watercress, snow pea and shiitake mushroom stir-fry from The Farm to Table Cookbook: The Art of Eating Locally.
Writing in The Root, Slate's online magazine covering African-American topics, Bryant Terry makes the argument that soul food has gotten a bad rap. Soul food is portrayed in popular culture as salty, fatty, sugar-laden comfort dishes like mac n' cheese, greens with ham hocks, fried chicken and lard biscuits. But half a century ago soul food meant the simple dishes Southern African-Americans ate for dinner, with plenty of fresh local ingredients - sauteed okra, stone ground grit cakes, homemade peach chutney. Sure there was fried chicken and cobbler, but that was hardly the whole picture, Terry says.
Terry, a Bay Area cookbook author originally from Memphis, hopes that bringing back locally focused, veggie-heavy soul food can help lower rates of obesity and diabetes in African-American communities. The article includes recipes for grit cakes and citrus collards with raisins. Yum.
If you're hungry and willing to fork over the cash, there are plenty of companies that will be willing to deliver you a meal. MSNBC recently noted a few companies that are now bringing their goods right to your front door (or, in some cases, your kid's school).
For $100, California-based RAWvolution will send you a box filled with two soups, four entrees, four side dishes and two desserts, all - you guessed it - raw and organic.
For parents who are way too busy to throw an apple and a pb&j in a paper bag for their kid, they can schedule to have Freshlunches deliver Junior a healthy, organic lunch (about $4-$7 per day), just like mom would make. Except...she didn't. Some company did. Oh, well - guess it's better than Lunchables, right?
Three Potato Four will send you a week's worth of food (or so they say), which includes four organic vegetarian entrees, two side dishes, soup, salad, dessert, and bread. Heck, they even throw in some flowers for ambiance!
Now, these options are all well and good, but if you want healthy food delivered to your family, why not join a CSA (Community-Supported Agriculture) program, and support your local farms while going easy on transportation emissions in the process? And if you need some company to make your kid's lunch every day, maybe you should re-assess your super-busy schedule, no?
Published in 1991, the Farmhouse Cookbook by Susan Herrman Loomis is a hefty paperback filled with recipes that Loomis spent two years collecting. She traveled the country, visiting family farms and small towns, eating amazing food and compiling those dishes into this book. I picked my copy up at a local thrift store about a year ago for $.89 and it has become one of my favorite cookbooks to read novel-style. Loomis is an engaging writer and never presents a recipe without giving a little history about it the people who shared it with her.
Another thing I find interesting about this cookbook is that Loomis writes it with an eye to local and sustainable farming, shopping and cooking. That wouldn't be surprising if she had written it in the last five years, but being that it is nearly 20 years old, I look at her perspective as something akin to visionary.
This is a cookbook I recommend for people who want a good read and inspiration for fairly easy, tasty dishes that take into account issues of local and seasonal eating.
I've been reading Barbara Kingsolver's Animal, Vegetable, Miracle, a book extolling the virtues of eating locally (and the horrors of eating veggies trucked in from California, Chile, and other places far afield). Beyond simply pushing organic food or a vegetarian lifestyle, Kingsolver suggests that eating foods grown locally, in season, by farmers using sustainable practices can, basically, save the world -- not to mention, be delicious. I've swallowed her pitch hook, line, and heirloom potato, and have begun deeply rethinking our family's grocery lists. Starting this process in the dead of winter is a challenge, and "the sustainable food project" is my way of sharing the struggle with you.
The sandwich, a staple of my family's diet, is a particularly interesting problem. Were I to open a pictorial culinary dictionary under "S," I'd imagine a photo of bread, meat, tomato, lettuce, mayo. But fresh red tomatoes and leafy green lettuce are anything but in season in Oregon, where I live -- and the vast majority of the U.S. and Europe for the next several months. Because it's easy to find a sustainably-farmed source, we've been eating lots of beef, ham, and crusty local bread, but what else?
I've been able to find lots of delicious, flavorful options utilizing local, organic produce.
I have a some guests from out of town visiting for a few days and I wanted to prepare something special. As usual I am all about putting together a meal from fresh and local ingredients. Today it is handmade, cultured butter and fresh caught haddock which were the main ingredients around which I wanted to base the meal. When you have these two ingredients the dish that comes to mind is fish in a Beurre Blanc sauce. This is a sauce made from white wine, fresh squeezed lemon juice, sauteed shallots and then it is emulsified into a sauce by slowly whisking in butter at a very low temperature. I will serve this with a nice Tomato, Green Bean, and Baby Potato Salad with Garden Herbs.
Yep, you read that right. There's a new "low carb" diet being touted out there, but thisone has absolutely nothing to do with your health. It has everything to do with the health of the environment.
Instead of calories of carbs, this diet has you counting carbon. That's right. The Low Carbon Diet is one in which you calculate the "carbon cost" of your food to help reduce the emissions that cause the greenhouse effect and global warming. The goal of the diet, which is actually a program that is being tested by a company called Bon Appetit, is to make people "realize that their food choices can have an effect on climate change."
What does this mean for us? It means that instead of eating a tropical fruit that took a lot of energy to transport to your grocery store, you go to your local farmers' market and buy what's been grown locally.
Sure, we'd love to be able to throw our gorgeous heads back and say with ease that we go to the farmers' market every week to buy all our organic produce; that we drive out to the closest dairy farm to pick up fresh organic milk and yogurt, and even ranch our own little flock of chickens for our own organic eggs.
But let's get real. Chickens are noisy.
Seriously though, in the ever-increasing pace of the world that we live in, we're lucky just to be able to think about eating responsibly, let alone actually do it. Thanks to Domino magazine's "green" issue, you can access some reliable organic foods without having to travel too far (and using all that gas) to get them.
The UK's Soil Association has just put forward a proposal to exclude any foods imported by air from using the "organic" label on their products. In theory, the proposal is based around the "food miles" theory, which states that the nearer to the point of sale that food is grown, the better for the environment it is. The theory assumes that emissions from airplanes and long-haul trucks will be greater than any of the pollutants that result from shorter journeys. There are many situations in which the theory does hold up, but by and large, it has been debunked, so even though it is given as the primary reason for this suggested policy change, the real motivation is simply money.
The demand for organics is very high. Stores can charge more for organics, as can growers. By effectively prohibiting imports in a country where the farmland is so limited (compared to some other countries, such as New Zealand, Chile and the US), the Soil Association is simply driving high prices even higher. Such a move may support local farms, but unless their production is able to match demand, consumers are really going to feel the effects of a change like this one.
The New Year is always full of possibilities. There are meals to be eaten, recipes to try and, of course, a slew of new food trends that will shape the way we eat and what food issues will be at the forefront of the news. Of all the trends that seemed to be pushing towards the forefront in recent months, these are some of those that look like they're about to have a breakout year.
Single Origin Chocolates - Dark chocolate was the hot item last year, but more companies, including Hershey's, are introducing and promoting single origin chocolates with cocoa beans from one country - or even one plantation - for their unique flavor profiles.
Healthy Soft Drinks - Jones Soda has eliminated high fructose corn syrup from their recipes. Enviga has been fairly successful so far, thanks to the large amount of publicity that it has received, and Diet Coke Plus will be coming to stores in a few months. Look for other soda companies to follow suit.
Healthy Food Labels - Hannaford supermarket introduced a labeling scheme of their own to direct shoppers to healthier foods and the traffic light system was a success in the UK. Don't be surprised to see more obvious messages about what is and is not good for you.
The prevailing food trends that say you should know exactly what you're eating and where it came from. This is generally accepted to mean that you should buy eggs are from free range chickens and beef from grass-fed, hormone-free cows. Whole Foods is reinterpreting that to mean that you should know the farmers who are responsible for producing the eggs, beef and produce that you are purchasing. They're introducing their customers to their producers by putting up pictures of the farmers in stores, which makes the shopping experience sort of like seeing the vendors at a farmer's market without having to interact with them in any way. The idea is not to make the farmers into celebrities, but to make sure that the customers know that they are buying locally and supporting these people by shopping at Whole Foods, not just supporting the store.
Whole Foods is supporting the farmers because it is driving their business, not just because they believe in the cause, but whatever the reason, the movement for buying locally is making a change for small farmers. Some report that nearly all of their products are now sold locally, whether through a venue like Whole Foods or direct to consumers, and that the increased interest in local foods and the willingness of consumers to pay slightly higher prices for them are, in many cases, saving these farms.
Having worked on a dairy farm for a few months, I know how difficult the life can be. At least in that case the final products were artisanal cheeses selling for upwards of $20 a pound. I can't even think what it is like to run a dairy farm selling milk. Even with government subsidies, many of the farmers actually end up selling the milk for less than their costs to produce it. In the Hudson Valley region of NY near me, there were 67 dairy farms in 1997. By 2002 there were only 45, and best estimates are that 23 remain active as of today. All these beautiful old farms are now becoming housing communities the ex-farmers can't even afford to live in.
I am a big fan of buying local and regional products and try to support all the little farmers struggling to make a living. I was very glad to hear about a new member based non-profit company called Hudson Valley Fresh. They buy high quality, hormone free milk from five dairy farms and sell it locally so that consumers can know that their milk is from nearby, not a farm thousands of miles away. The milk isn't certified organic since that is an expensive multi-year process, but it is very good milk that is going to be much fresher than milk that has traveled long distances to get to your store. It may cost a bit more, but the money is passed back to the local farmers who are getting paid much more than the average price for their milk.
New York isn't the only area where local milk is being sold. There are two producers in Rhode Island, Rhody Fresh and The Farmer's Cow offering local milk. So far these local milks are only available in limited quantities but sales are good which means that more will soon be available.. We have to support our local farmers. It's a hard life that requires great dedication and I for one like to know where my food comes from. I also want to keep as many of my dollars in my local community, helping small and family run businesses to not only survive, but to actually make a decent living. I ask all of you to do the same as much as possible I know that it is very difficult to live off of purely local products, but we can all try to do what we can.
At first, such a remark seems strange, coming from someone who should be, by most popular accounts, concerned about being driven out of business by the coffee giant. Yet this is not the case, as he goes on to explain that Starbucks "pioneered the idea of paying up to $5 for a cup" of specialty coffee, a concept that would have run most coffee shops out of business years ago, as people were used to paying much less. The chain also raised general coffee awareness, which allowed smaller shops to thrive in even Starbucks-dense areas by promoting artisanal coffees and providing a neighborhood alternative, which many consumers appreciated. Indeed, at some coffee shops, almost all of the customers are "regulars."
Starbucks spokespeople say that they do nothing to discourage competitors, a position which is supported by the fact that many businesses thrive only doors down from the corporate cafes. The loss of some shops would indicate a process or natural selection, with interest in a perhaps low-quality product waning as the standards of the area increase. The shops that succeed make good coffee, often offer it at prices similar to Starbucks, and "a selling point of being small," something that they couldn't do without coffee giant.
Keeping track of what foods are in season at different times of the year can be difficult. For those who live in the San Francisco Bay Area, finding in-season, locally grown foods just god a little bit easier. The Local Foods Wheel is a bright, 12-inch wheel that rotates, revealing all the foods that are seasonally available. The front of the wheel indicates the produce that is available year round. The back of the wheel has a full seasonality reference, including a listing of the precise seasons a given product is available and a list of some of the more obscure foods that don't have icons on the wheel itself. Take the wheel shopping with you, or just use it as a reference when you're making your grocery list at home.
The wheel is $11.95 and can be purchased online, as well as at the Berkeley farmer's market and several other Bay Area locations.