On his blog, Notes from the Food World, Michael Ruhlman has asked his readers to identify what they believe are the next big American food trends. He's gotten a huge number of responses, with people saying everything from quinoa (I definitely agree with that) to animal genitalia (I'm not quite sure how I feel about this).

It wasn't too surprising that a number of responses had something to do with locally-grown produce or seasonal products. A bunch also mentioned molecular gastronomy -- but I wonder if that's actually on its way out, rather than in. And I was pleased to see mentions of Sous-vide and infused liquors, which tell me that I exist at least somewhat in the loop (phew). Check out the discussion here on his blog, or just let us know what you think!

I'm trying to eat more sustainably, choosing "pastured" meats and dairy, free-range eggs, and local, organic produce from small farms; I'm also trying to virtually eliminate processed foods from my family's diet. I have three small boys and a husband who grew up on Fruit Loops and KFC. I live in the city (Portland, Oregon); I work full-time; and I'm learning to garden. This is my story.

I don't think I have an addictive personality, but it's true: I'm addicted to caffeine. Not only am I an addict, I'm something of a snob, pooh-poohing Starbucks and supermarket brands for single-estate coffee beans and PG Tips tea. It's ok: as luxuries go, my choices aren't terribly draining on family finances. At about $10 a 12-ounce bag, my coffee habit runs me less than $20 a week.

But. I'm trying to eat local, honoring as much of the spirit of the 100-mile diet and the locavores as I can (though my range is probably more like 300 miles, given how huge is my home state of Oregon).

Tired of reading about eating local? Mad that your friends are going on and on about the provenance of the sage leaves (heirlooms from my own garden, they are!) on the gourmet dinner they served you? Really sick of hearing about your college roommate's new chicken coop? Well, you may not be, but NPR commentator Amy Stewart, is.

In a piece that seemed more bitter than escarole picked past its prime, Stewart takes America to task for its focus on the word, concept, and media conglomerate behind "locavores." (In case you missed it, "locavore" was selected as the 2007 word of the year by The New Oxford American Dictionary.) She says local eating is just "another symptom of our deeply troubled relationship with food" and "our obsession with local food has gone far enough ... we have heaped all our fears and anxieties onto the dinnerplate." Umm... isn't that the whole idea of the local eating "obsession"? Isn't it that we've ignored our dinner plates too long? I thought that reconnecting with our food supply and caring about animal rights (not so much for the animals' sake as for our very health and life, mind you -- poor treatment of animals and vegetables is thought to be responsible for the majority of often-deadly foodborne illnesses we confront) was completely the point.

It sounds to me as if Amy Stewart is a little peeved she didn't get a book deal to pay for her groceries for a year.

I've been reading Barbara Kingsolver's Animal, Vegetable, Miracle, a book extolling the virtues of eating locally (and the horrors of eating veggies trucked in from California, Chile, and other places far afield). Beyond simply pushing organic food or a vegetarian lifestyle, Kingsolver suggests that eating foods grown locally, in season, by farmers using sustainable practices can, basically, save the world -- not to mention, be delicious. I've swallowed her pitch hook, line, and heirloom potato, and have begun deeply rethinking our family's grocery lists. Starting this process in the dead of winter is a challenge, and "the sustainable food project" is my way of sharing the struggle with you.

The sandwich, a staple of my family's diet, is a particularly interesting problem. Were I to open a pictorial culinary dictionary under "S," I'd imagine a photo of bread, meat, tomato, lettuce, mayo. But fresh red tomatoes and leafy green lettuce are anything but in season in Oregon, where I live -- and the vast majority of the U.S. and Europe for the next several months. Because it's easy to find a sustainably-farmed source, we've been eating lots of beef, ham, and crusty local bread, but what else?

I've been able to find lots of delicious, flavorful options utilizing local, organic produce.

Conservative MP Geoffrey Clifton-Brown has laid an Early Day Motion in the UK's House of Commons, which has been seconded by shadow DEFRA secretary Peter Ainsworth, along with other shadow spokesmen on agriculture.

The motion highlights the Farmer's Weekly's campaign and says that buying locally grown food is an excellent way for consumers to reconnect with farmers and develop a better understanding of where their food comes from. It also calls on supermarkets to promote, stock and label locally-produced food to cut food miles and support local farmers.

Mr Clifton-Brown said: "The Local Food is Miles Better campaign recognises the importance of local food to our economy, our environment and to British farming.

"I know that in Gloucestershire, there is vociferous and growing demand for high quality, locally-produced food.

"It is my hope that this Farmer's Weekly's campaign helps to spread this demand nationally, and help people understand how their food is grown. I am delighted to support the campaign."

A Suffolk town refused to give permission to build a Tesco superstore in their neighborhood in 1997 and, since that time, local businesses and agriculture have flourished. Despite an overall decrease in the number of smaller, independent stores throughout Britain, the number of businesses in town has remained the same and the number of local/regional food suppliers increased from 300 to 370, meeting the demand from local butchers, bakers and greengrocers. The local shops primarily source from local sources, and have not found themselves to be limited in what they can offer their customers. In fact, they have slowly been expanding into more diverse foods and vegetables as suppliers find people to grow them.

Over the past decade, many other store proposals from developers have been turned down and the locals' position gets stronger after each refusal. The hardest part is shaking the mindset that values convenience and sometimes price, over quality and belief. The locals would rather know where their food is coming from, who is selling it to them and that they are supporting quality food in their community, than save a few pennies on carrots from elsewhere in the world at Tesco.

Stores like Waitrose and Marks & Spencer have already put effort into sourcing more local ingredients, which has made customers and local business people alike very happy as well as demonstrating that local foods can be utilized on a larger scale. This is useful to note because it is not possible for the Suffolk strategy to work everywhere; some areas are simply not suited to agricultural purposes. What the Suffolk example does show is that the local food movement can still thrive in a modern environment as long as people are committed to it.

 

My mother grew up on a dairy farm in central Oregon, near Madras. My relatives, and those who grew up around her, now supply beef, lamb, dairy products and produce to the citified folk in Portland.

They would be sending most of their stuff to wholesalers, who would in turn send it to processors, or ship it overseas, or... who knows. A few decades ago, many of them were near bankrupt. Until New Seasons market happened along, with its commitment to sourcing locally. New Seasons is just part of a movement among those flamingly liberal Portland folk to buy local, organic, sustainable. And according to this article in the New York Times, it's working. And most ironically? Those farmers, they're conservative and straight-laced. But they're supplying the liberals.