Time Magazine reports, with a soupçon of punny glee, that sales of offal in Great Britain have surged as of late, likely in response to the international economic downturn. Quoth London's Liz Logan:
"Tough economic times have Britons eating their hearts out and swallowing their tongues. Not literally, of course. But offal - or "variety meats," as the food category is euphemistically called in the U.K. - is experiencing a surge in popularity, with sales up 67% over the past five years."
Thing is, even in advance of the pound sterling's plunge, the nose-to-tail herd, helmed by offal stalwarts like Fergus Henderson and River Cottage's Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, had been squealing 'bout the culinary benefits of tripe, kidneys, brains, tail, giblets and trotters. Come for the savings, stay for the savoring -- the message seems to have come home to roost.
I posted a while back about my love of grilled chicken hearts, and I'm no stranger to whisking up a batch of giblet gravy, or a neckbone ragout, but I'm hungry for your favorite takes on organ meats. Post 'em in the comments below.
As the ongoing recession/inflation/credit crunch drives the cost of food higher and higher, British chain Sainsbury's has begun working to minimize food wastage. Meanwhile, ever-increasing numbers of consumers are cooking from scratch in an attempt to stretch their food budgets. Clearly, thrift is back!
As you rush around in your search for cheap things to eat, it's worth remembering that, in the kitchen at least, poverty can definitely be the mother of invention. Although cheap gas, greenhouse gardening, and factory farming drove down the price of food for most of the last century, the vast majority of human history has been characterized by the desperate search for sustenance. Keeping that in mind, here's a reminder about a few of the techniques that long-gone chefs once developed to preserve the harvest, get their vitamins, and avoid throwing anything away:
Organ meats: In the days before easy canning and greenhouse gardening, it was incredibly difficult to get the necessary daily allowance of vitamins. Lacking access to fresh fruits and vegetables, medieval farmers turned to organ meats. For example, rich in iron and Vitamin A, the liver was a dietary staple for generations. Similarly, kidneys, sweetbreads, and brains are also great sources of necessary vitamins. Much later, immigrants and the lower classes continued to eat these organs, as they were healthy and relatively inexpensive.
A while, back, I wrote a post on emotionally-based food aversions -- both my own (tuna noodle casserole), and those of loved ones (scrambled eggs, mayonnaise, garlic). Little did I know this was going to open up Pandora's icebox. More than 75,000 people weighed in on our "What food hits your yuck button?" poll, and the comments thread is at the time of this writing, 1668 strong and counting. It seems that folks have just been looking for a place to spill their long-stewing food loathings, so we've counted down the top 20, weighting them for poll votes, number of mentions in comments, and level of vitriol incurred.
Want to keep the conversation flowing? See the initial post, or hurl forth in the comments below.
As one chef put it, "We're going to paint the town with foie gras."
Um, that might be taking it a little far, but okay.
After just over a year of the law that banned restaurants from serving foie gras, the city of Chicago has done an about-face, making the fatty liver of ducks and geese available to diners. Many parties are involved with the issue of serving foie gras in Chicago restaurants, from animal rights activists to restaurant owners to foie gras producers, and even to those interested in the political process in Chicago's city administration.
Recently, German researchers fed lab mice separate "human" and "chimp" diets, and within just two weeks, were able to notice distinct psychological and genetic differences in the rodents.
There were three different diets: a raw food-only diet; meals from the researchers' local cafeteria; and a pure fast-food diet. The researchers found a huge difference in the livers of the mice with a chimp diet versus those with a human diet (I'm scared to hear about the difference in their hearts and arteries!) They found thousands of differences in the genes expressed in the mouse livers, which they think may be caused by our differences in diets.
...You got all that? Okay. The scientists also found that said genes seemed to evolve faster than other genes.
So, basically, our ancestors' adoption of meat and cooked foods may have shaped us into the carnivorous, brownie-eating, beer-guzzling beings we are today.
Just before New Year's Eve we learned from Nicole that several eateries in the Windy City intended to transform themselves into duckeasies to ring in the new year. That's right, they planned on serving foie gras in spite of the city's recent ban on the sale of the luxurious liver.
Yesterday I read that several Chicago restaurants and specialty markets are continuing to flout the ban. At Hot Doug's, a gourmet sausage store, the owner continues to sell foie gras and has framed his warning letter as a point of pride.
While some restaurants such as Sweets & Savories continue to openly sell foie gras, others have devised creative ways to fly under the radar as it were. Rumor has it that ordering the "special lobster" at several restaurants will help you score a plate of the banned delicacy.
And the award for the most straightforward way to skirt the ban goes to Bin 36, which also has the dubious honor of being the only eatery inspected to date. It seems the restaurant wasn't actually selling foie gras, it was giving it away. Well, not quite giving it away. The menu offered a complimentary foie gras terrine with its wild mushroom confit salad. The inspectors neglected to ask whether the salad would cost as much without the terrine. As anyone who's ever purchased any foie gras can tell you, it wouldn't.
What ever is a food blogger to do when offered a free lobe of foie gras from Mirepoix USA? One option is to do nothing. Another is to call Peta and complain. The best option, however, is to gather recipe suggestions, find a second blogger who received one and challenge her to a virtual face-off over who can prepare the better torchon of foie gras. In this case, the showdown was between Adam, the Amateur Gourmet, and Meg, of Megnut. Take a look at Adam's account of his adventures with the fatty liver, as well as at Meg's account from her kitchen. Since we weren't there to taste either of the finished products, we only have photos and Adam's video of his friends' reactions to the tasting to help us decide whose cuisine, in this case, reigns supreme.
Also, if you think that foie gras comes in those nice little rounds you see above, think again. Click past the jump to see what it looks like as it is being prepared.
Two new studies have shown that mandarin oranges may be good for curing more than just scurvy. One study, which was centered on a town whose residents ate a very high number of mandarins, showed that they had a lower risk of liver disease, hardened arteries and insulin resistance. The second study found that drinking mandarin juice decreased the risk of developing liver cancer in patients with chronic viral hepatitis. Right now, scientists believe that cartenoids, a specific compound from the vitamin A in the oranges, are responsible for both the results.
The scientists who ran the study say that more research is needed, perhaps over as many as five more years, before they will have the kind of data that they need to draw more solid conclusions. As it stands now, however, there are no drawbacks to eating an extra orange or two.
Wine blogger Dr. Vino has a fascinating, insightful account of a tour he took of a foie gras producer in France's Dordogne region last month. Now before anyone jumps down my throat, let me say that I've had the pleasure of eating foie gras only once or twice. And in all honesty I'm a bit conflicted as to whether force feeding geese in order to fatten their livers is indeed cruel or, rather, as some have told me, a process for which they greedily line up.
It remains to be seen whether I'll ever tour a foie gras operation, but one thing I do know is that the good doctor had the nerve and intellectual curiousity to tour one such farm while the rest of his family opted for a swim. Among the issues Dr. Vino raises are the relatively pleasant conditions the geese enjoy while they are outside in two large fields as opposed to the darkened gavage barns where they are force-fed four times daily. Even he seems uncertain as to just how cruel the process is. But in the end he concludes that it's probably best for all to know where their food comes from, foie gras or otherwise.
A few cups of coffee a day may help lower the risk of alcohol related liver cirrhosis, according to the results of a study recently published in the Archives of Internal Medicine. The New York Times recently reported on the study, which tracked the health and dietary habits of over 125,000 people from 1978 to 2001. "Compared with people who never drank coffee, those who drank one cup a day or less were about 30 percent less likely to develop alcoholic cirrhosis," the NYT article states. Likelihood of developing alcoholic cirrhosis dropped even more as the number of daily cups of coffee rose. Tea didn't produce the same effects, ruling out the possibility that caffeine is to thank. Researchers are still unsure as to what the preventative ingredient in coffee is.
A city councilman in Philidelphia, Jack Kelly, has developed a plan that would block the sale of foie gras. Modeled after the Chicago ban, which prevents foie gras from being sold by retailers and at restaurants, Kelly suggests implementing similar measures. Predictably, there is resistance from some in the restaurant community. Retailers like Assouline & Ting, which supplies foie gras to eateries, also oppose the ban, saying that they would have to lay of some employees if that sector of their business was curtailed.
There is obviously at least some support for the proposal, as there is a petition online with over 1,300 signatures in favor of a city-wide ban.
Having enjoyed an offal salad at the Anchor and Hope with a bunch of the UK's
bloggers, I can attest to being a lover of offal. Gimme kidneys, liver or heart any day. Pig's trotters I am not that
much of a fan of; and there is something about brains that I really don't want to go into that takes them off the menu
too.
Pluck is the lungs, heart and liver of an animal that is most famously used in the creation of the
Scottish delicacy haggis - stuffed with oat bran inside a sheep's stomach. Lights are the animals
lungs; again there is something about them that puts me off. They can be used though as an addition to several dishes,
finely chopped in a bolognese sauce for example. To prepare them they have to be beaten by a mallet to remove the air
and the cartilage and a broccoli looking bit sticking out of the windpipe have to be removed too.