This week, the Inquirer is all about Korean food, especially in Philly's burgeoning "Koreatown" (their moniker, not mine). And in the wake of the 10-day revelry that was Beer Week, it's probably best that we load up on some home cooking to soak up all that alcohol.

• Foods like kimchi, shabu shabu and bibimbap are holding gaining in popularity as the Korean food craze continues
• Echoing the above article, Craig LeBan shares his favorite Korean dishes, especially the marinated beef ribs
  
• Shira Kamm joins the growing number of Pennsylvania's women farmers
• It's official: Philly residents are alkies
• Inquirer Columnist officially runs out of things to write about; goes on weird rant/rave about eggs
• Newbie restaurant Osteria was nominated for a James Beard Best New Restaurant Award
  

Right about now, everyone is in the final throes of their Thanksgiving prep. Maybe you've got a pie to bake tonight or you have to hit the grocery store one last time on the way home from work, but basically, you're there. You don't need our help with recipes for tasty side dishes or tips on how wedge all your leftovers into the fridge anymore.

So here's my question for all of you. What's that one food item without which your Thanksgiving is not complete? Your staple food that has to be on the table or the meal just can't go forward. It doesn't have to be traditional or even cohesive with the meal, but somehow brings everything together for you. Me, it doesn't feel like Thanksgiving until I've had a little nibble of crispy turkey skin and a glass of sparkling apple cider. Over at the Epi Log, Esther Sung writes about how there needs to be a dish of kimchi on the table for Thanksgiving to feel rounded and satisfying for her.

Share your favorites, your quirky side dishes and things that make your holiday feel special.

If yesterday's post on canning piqued your interest in food preservation, then you might want to check out this post over at Farm to Philly. Nicole took some of the Daikon radish that came in her CSA box, mixed it with ginger, garlic, Korean ground chile paste, salt, sugar and Swiss Chard and turned it into Kimchi. She skips out on the step in which you bury the jars underground for the Winter and instead just tucks them into a cool, dark place until the fermentation process is complete.

Photo link

Health magazine has picked the five healthiest foods that you can get from five different countries. The list isn't complete, of course (I'm not even sure if these are the healthiest foods in the world), but it's a quick guide to the healthy foods that a few different countries have given us.

Spain has given us olive oil, Japan soy, Greece has given us yogurt, and lentils come from India. I've never had kimchi, from Korea, but that's on the list too. You can get recipes for each food at the link above as well.

So readers, what about the United States? What healthy foods have we contributed to the world? And no, Ring Dings don't count.

The other day I found this fish-based treat in the snack aisle of a Japanese market that just opened in my neighborhood. Gotta love the packaging. It might look like a bad-ass gang tattoo related to murdering someone, but I'm pretty sure the teardrop coming from the pepper-person's eye is supposed to indicate that the dried slices of kawahagi, or file fish, are so coated with red pepper that they cause watery eyes and spontaneous combustion.

Tonight I dug it out of the cupboard for a midnight snack. The package bears an English transliteration at the top edge, "Kimuchi-kawahagi." This I take to mean kimchi-flavored file fish. I didn't find it homicidally spicy. The translucent slices of chewy fish had just enough red pepper flakes to cause a pleasant tingle. Each bite had a perfect balance of fishiness, heat, sweetness and saltiness: all of which spells drinking snack. Add to this a sprinkling of sesame seeds and soon I found myself with a half empty bag. I think I'll save the rest for another night.

If you live on either coast, or even in the Midwest in a major metropolitan area, you'll have no problem finding an Asian grocery store. Korean-specific markets are a little harder to find, and if you're somewhere where there isn't a huge population of Korean people, well, you might find yourself at a loss when a craving for kimchee strikes. You can make it yourself, or you can click over to koaMart, an online Korean food grocer.

Sure, they do the dry, non-perishable goods like ramen and rice, but they can send perishable goods like tofu and kimchee as well. I've never shopped at the store since I live in Los Angeles, but if I were in say, the mountains of Colorado (or really, really lazy) I might give them a try. Shipping isn't cheap, but hey, when you need your pickled, fermented cabbage, you gotta do what you gotta do.

Remember when the news broke out that kimchee, the stinky, spicy, fermented cabbage from Korea, might aid in fighting the bird flu? I bet half the people who read the news went out and bought a giant jar of the stuff. But unless you're Korean and you eat kimchee with every meal (even breakfast!), you probably still have more than half of that jar left, slowly ripening away in the back of your fridge. Before long, it'll be kimchee wine, which sounds absolutely...gross.

Fret not, kimchee freaks. Rachael, of the food blog Fresh Approach Cooking, has taken kimchee and made it into a pasta salad! Normally, I bristle at "fusion," but I just can't help but love any idea that incorporates one of my all time favorite foods. Fabulous!

That's right. South Korean astronauts may be taking a specially designed type of kimchi with them when they travel on a Russian spacecraft in 2008. The news comes from a recent Los Angeles Times article about kimchi's presence in the academic and scientific communities in Korea. The kimchi that the Korean astronauts will take is intended to help their digestion. Some of you may recall news about kimchi's possible ability to stave off avian flu, and the Times lists several other health claims associated with the fermented national treasure. Mice fed kimchi were apparently less stressed and had fewer wrinkles. Still, other research suggests that eating too much kimchi may be linked to increased risk of gastric cancer. According to the Times, South Koreans consume 77 pounds of kimchi annually and rates of gastric cancer are 10 times higher there than in the U.S.

[Photo: Kim Kyung-hoon / Reuters]

This is the first in a series about  pizza done with an ethnic twist in New York City, the de facto capital of straight-ahead pizza. Fuhgeddabout about whether you think my fair city's pizza is the "best." I know the answer to that one. These missives concern crosscultural pies, which I'm a little skeptical about. Nonetheless, I  like to keep an open mind and sometimes ignore the fact that I cut my teeth on home-made Calabrian square pies.

I first heard "kimchi" and "pizza" mentioned in the same sentence  on Chowhound. At the time, I was a Korean food dilettante. I gladly enjoyed gas-grilled Korean barbecue, but never imagined the splendid smoky bulgogi  that comes from a charcoal grill. Nevermind  paejun. I had little or no experience with this pancake that combines kimchi, seafood and green onion. Shapewise at least, paejun, is the closest Korean fare comes to pizza.

Kimchee bok-keum bahp is a Korean home and café food. At home, it's a way to use up kimchee before it gets too ripe to eat (at which time, it gets dumped into a big pot and turned into kimchee jji-gae). "Bok-keum" means sauteed or fried and "bahp" is steamed rice if you're only halfway through Korean 101. So essentially, kimchee bok-keum bahp is fried rice with kimchee, and yes, all those stories about Asian restaurants - today's leftover rice is tomorrow's fried rice - is totally true and totally applies here.

Here's a nasty little sercret - kimchee bokkeum bahp tastes infinitely better when cooked with chopped Spam, but since I don't ever just have Spam on hand and the point of kimchee bokkeum bahp is to use leftovers, I usually use frozen leftover galbee or bulgogi. Of course, leave all of that out and your kimchee bokeeum bahp can be vegetaarian.

January 29 may be the debut of the Year of the Dog, but I'm quite certain that 2006 will be the Year of Korean Food. It's going to be my personal mission this year to see that red (pepper) will be the new black, Korean barbecue will be the Asian answer to South Beach, and kimchee will be right up there with salsa and sauerkraut. 

If you look on the bottom shelf, toward the back, of any Korean kitchen refrigerator, you will find at least one large jar of kimchee. A house full of Koreans can eat through jar after jar of kimchee, but there may be times when a jar of kimchee lasts a little longer than usual, resulting in kimchee that has pickled to a point that makes even a hard core Korean pucker. The kimchee hasn't gone bad (I doubt that it ever does, with all that salt and red pepper), but it's a little too sour to serve straight up. There are a lot of things to make with over-ripe kimchee. Kimchee jji-gae ("jj" is pronounced somewhere between "j" and "ch") is one of my favorites. Jji-gae is a general Korean term that is similar to a stew served in a hot pot.

Like Mario Batali explains that recipes for the exact same thing varying from house to house in Italy, so does the recipe for kimchee jji-gae differ from one Korean family to the next. Traditionally, kimchee jji-gae is made with pork (that's what my family does), but some use beef, some use Spam (which I just cant bring myself to categorize under "pork"), and others leave their kimchee jji-gae vegetarian and add tofu or nothing at all. You can adjust just about everything in the recipe below from my family.