"izakaya" news and stories

P.F. Chang's, the company that brought Chinese food to the masses, has decided to dip its toe into new waters with a Japanese concept.

Taneko Japanese Tavern opened two weeks ago this month at The Borgata, an upscale mall in the company's hometown of Scottsdale, Ariz. Taneko is P.F. Chang's take on one of my favorite types of Japanese eateries, the izakaya. To my knowledge no chain restaurant company has yet attempted to remake one of these Japanese bars that serve sake, shochu and small plates.

I'm usually more than a little concerned that when a chain tackles an ethnic concept that's unfamiliar to them that they'll rob it entirely of its soul. But I must admit that from what I've read P.F. Chang's sounds like its heart is in the right place. Taneko will have an exhibition kitchen and a robata grill. The menu will include wood-roasted yellowfin tuna, American kobe beef and Kurobuta pork chops.

Taneko takes its name from a combination of Tanuki, the raccoon-faced dog that is Japan's God of gluttony and sake, and maneki neko, the welcoming cat seen in front of Japanese businesses ranging from pachinko parlors to ramen shops.

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This past week I hooked up with some friends at an izakaya to watch the final game of the World Baseball Classic, Japan vs.Cuba. More on the results later. I first met these folks at the same pub. We bonded over the historic Yanks–Red Sox Game, cheering for Matsui.

Fast forward to the food. As we anxiously awaited the game's start, I noticed  hot dog, Japanese style, $2, on the handwritten specials board. At that price I knew I had to try it. What better snack for a ball game than hot dogs? Beneath that read: $5.50  –  dressing: squid sashimi, natto and seaweed. We ordered up two dogs; one with the squiddy, squishy works, and one plain.

I still remember with exceptional clarity the most disgusting thing I ever ate. Just to be clear, we're not talking about drinking spoiled milk on a dare or being a contestant on Fear Factor, but rather ordering off a menu with no coercion whatsoever. I was in an izakaya, a Japanese pub, in Manhattan and decided it was time to try something new. I am by no means leery of outlandish foods. I have gleefully savored ceviche, sweetbreads, and calf spleen sandwiches. When it comes to Japanese food I am a sushi purist who warmly embraces uni as well tuna and natto handrolls. As for izakaya grub I have no problem with liver sashimi, although I'm somewhat less enthusiastic about okra and raw octopus.