Heirloom tomato salad. Photo: Eric Diesel

If you're lucky enough to live near a farmers market, don't forget to thank your local farmer and gardener for that sparkling-fresh produce, especially those who grow heirloom vegetables and fruits. In addition to growing delicious produce, they're cultivating history, right on the vine.

Though there are some differences of opinion about its exact definition, an heirloom variety of fruit or vegetable is generally agreed to be one that has been cultivated for at least 50 years. Beans are an heirloom veggie ever-growing in popularity, but the food that truly sings of summer is the tomato.

Heirloom tomatoes are beginning to appear in gardens, at roadside stands and lining produce aisles. In honor of the unique flavors and colors of these beauties, beyond the jump is an original recipe for a summer tomato salad: history you can eat. But remember to save some seeds -- preserving them is the least we can do for these species that give so much to us.

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Melissa Clark can't resist bringing home bags of tomatoes from the farmers market this time of year. She offers up a tomato recipe for every night of the week (plus one to grow on) including Multi-colored Tomato Tartlets, Baked Stuffed Tomatoes with Goat Cheese Fondue and Green Tomato and Lemon Marmalade.

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Around these parts (and across most of the United States) tomatoes are setting, ripening and exploding with deliciousness at every turn. I took a visit to the largest seasonal farmers' market in the Philadelphia area this afternoon, and there were tomatoes everywhere I looked. Mountains of heirlooms, rows of red and orange cherry tomatoes in pint boxes and tables of perfect, round, red New Jersey tomatoes.

I left with a large shopping bag full of fresh, local, mostly organic produce, including a pint of sweet cherry tomatoes and several nice-sized yellow heirlooms. First thing I did when I got home was slice a bunch of the cherries in half and toss them with a little chevre. I drizzled the tomatoes and cheese with a little good olive oil and showed it a couple of turns of pepper. Then I dug in. The near-sugary flavor of the tomatoes coupled with softness of the cheese lifted my mood and made me wish that it could be summer all year round, so that there would never be a time when tomatoes like these weren't available.

While the name gets thrown around a lot, especially with the ever-increasing discussion of shopping at local farmers markets and avoiding conventionally grown, mass produced produce, many consumers still wonder what heirloom tomatoes really are.

While some feel that a set, defined time limit of 50 or 100 years must be included in the definition of an heirloom plant, the short definition of an heirloom tomato is that it is an open-pollinated tomato plant, meaning that it is naturally pollinated by exposure to birds, insects and animals. Hybrid plants, the commercially grown tomatoes, do not always produce reliable, viable seeds due to the fact that some (if not most) of the crosses used to generate the plants were done artificially.

The more traditional tomatoes, those that are often seen in supermarkets and the majority of restaurants, have been bred to enhance certain characteristics besides flavor. For example, many have been selected for disease resistance or for having a slightly thicker skin, which makes them hold up better during shipping. Most of these conventional tomatoes are close to spherical and very red in color. Their flavor is ordinary, with little "wow" factor.

When is a tomato not a tomato? When it's an heirloom and goes by its own name, like "Brandywine" and Marvel "Stripe." Recipes are for: Cavatelli with Cranberry Beans, Warm Spinach Salad with Bacon & Potatoes, Bruschetta With Fresh Ricotta & Cherry Tomatoes, and Sliced Heirloom Tomatoes with Buttermilk Dressing.

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Heirlooms may not always present the archetypal tomato in terms of physical appearance, but their bold stripes and unusual shapes have a certain elegance to them, not to mention that they hold the promise of a truly delicious fruit (or vegetable, of you prefer). The Heirloom Tomato Cookbook is a beautifully photographed collection of 50 recipes that all use heirloom tomatoes. The most basic way to enjoy one of these is plain, or with a bit of salt, because the flavor of the tomato itself is so wonderful. But even the most ardent tomato fan can get bored with plain tomatoes, so the recipes for gazpacho, salsas and even jams in this book can help to take full advantage of the summer's tomato crop.

The one caveat about this book is that many of the recipes call for specific types of tomatoes. Don't feel bound by that, though it will give you something to go on if deciding to grow your own or purchase them for the first time. Each tomato may have a slightly different flavor, but they are all tomatoes. Try different kinds and figure out which ones you like best. The odds are good that you won't be disappointed whether you end up with Brandywine or Purple Ball tomatoes.