Don't mourn the loss of the summer produce bounty. A guide to the dark leafy greens of fall -- like spinach, collards, Brussels sprouts, rainbow chard and savoy cabbage -- proves autumn has a cornucopia of seasonal vegetables.
Cookbook author Paula Wolfert reveals her sacred kitchen object, claiming she "never met a pot of clay she didn't like."
The common chickpea is spiced up with cumin, turmeric, coriander and cayenne.
Got a hungry man in your life? Lucinda Scala Quinn, author of "Mad Hungry, Feeding Men & Boys" offers ten tips for feeding men (and boys), like "don't ask if they're hungry" and "train them to fend for themselves." After the tips, she cooks up five guy-approved recipes, like "Flat Roast Chicken" and "Steak Pizzaiola."
Warm up with hearty stews as the weather cools down. Tomatillos, small green tomatoes popular in Mexican cooking, shine in a "lean, mean slow-cooker recipe" with beef eye of round and pinto beans.
There are several plants I am familiar with that are considered weeds. Dandelion comes to mind instantly. We'll wait till fall to talk more about our little yellow lawn devils. I was shopping in the Union Square Greenmarket recently during a lunchtime walk, and amongst the multi-colored organic carrots and varietal greens, was purslane. Purlsane is a slightly succulent sprawling weed, with thick reddish stems. It radiates out, flat to the ground from a central root. I had seen this plant in my garden and flower beds before learning from one of my books what it was. Purslane is raised as a crop in other parts of the world, where it is used raw as a salad green, or cooked like spinach. Here we relentlessly pull it from the garden, and just throw it away. I had told a neighbor of mine that seemed to be overrun with the stuff to save it for me a few years ago.
I feel like I'm revealing some deep, dark secret, but here goes: I microwave my salads.
Now, this isn't because I like my lettuce and carrots and salad dressing really hot, it's because of bacteria. I started doing this a couple of years ago, when we had all those recalls and scares involving pre-made bagged salads and spinach. I make my salad on a plate then zap it for about 20 seconds. Just enough to kill something but not make the salad get hot and shrivel.
Now, I have to stress that I have no idea if 20 seconds in the microwave will even do anything to destroy bacteria, but it makes me feel good anyway.
Clotilde over at Chocolate and Zucchini has a lovely spring-appropriate post about how to keep greens fresh. "Keeping one's greens fresh and happy seems to be the culinary equivalent of keeping one's skin young: it's a losing battle, but everyone hopes to find the magic technique," writes the ever-witty Parisienne.
Clotilde likes to rinse the greens several times, removes excess moisture with a salad spinner, lets them sit in the spinner to dry for 20 minutes, then stores them in a sealed plastic container lined with paper towels. Her blog commenters have chimed in with dozens of their own helpful tips. I'll try to remember this for next time, as I've just finished cleaning rotten spinach goop out of the crisper drawer again.
Earlier this week, I was doing a little grocery shopping at Reading Terminal Market (if you're a foodie and you're coming to visit Philadelphia, don't miss a trip to Reading Terminal) when I stumbled across a pomegranate deal. These puppies were just $.50 a piece and so I splurged and bought four (they've been so expensive here recently that I haven't indulged at all this season).
But once I got them home, I realized that I had little clue what to do with them other than just eat them straight. I've been working my way through them, pairing them with this or that to see what works (pomegranate seeds with plain yogurt was a little too bitter for me). One match-up that worked beautifully was the salad you see above. The juicy outer part of the fruit gave the salad (romaine lettuce, goat cheese, sliced apple and a honey lemon dressing) a nice sweetness and the seed gave it a nutty crunch. And they were so good with the goat cheese. It's definitely worth a shot if you have a pomegranate around.
I recently went to The Penthouse, the new restaurant at the top of The Huntley Hotel in Santa Monica. While the food was a little less than spectacular, the view of the Pacific from that high up was pretty stunning. However, there was one thing I ate that got my attention, which was their Green Crunch Salad.
The mix of crunchy greens tossed with a spicy vinaigrette was awesome, so I decided to re-create it at home, with my personal preferences, of course. The Penthouse's salad was composed of fresh sugar snap peas, cooked regular peas, and steamed edamame, which I did as well. However, instead of lightly steamed asparagus tips, I used raw snow peas cut on a bias. I dressed my vegetables with a spicy balsamic vinaigrette (3:1 olive oil: balsamic vinegar + finely minced garlic + salt/pepper + crushed red pepper) and the result was good. In fact, I might say that I liked my version with the balsamic vinaigrette a little more than The Penthouse's Asian-inspired sesame dressing.
Although it is still cold in many parts of the country, temperatures here in Southern California shot up to almost summer-like highs over the past few days. The sudden heat has cause me - and many others - to turn away from hot soup and "comfort food" cookbooks and turn back to salads and other cool, light fare. This salad is idea for moving from winter into spring, although you could make it all year round, because it incorporates fresh oranges, dried cranberries and salty-sweet candied nuts, all of which are frequently used in late fall and winter dishes and desserts. These sweet salad components are on a bed of mixed baby greens and diced avocado. I dressed the whole salad with a heavily vinegar-based dressing (a citrus flavored vinegar mixed with a bit of oil, salt and pepper) to enhance the brightness of all of the components.
We looked at a couple of spinach alternatives last week, but with the new warnings against lettuce, we're starting to reevaluate some of our salad options. After all, it is always good to have a backup plan, even though no one has become sick as a result of contaminated lettuce at this time. NPR has several suggestions for alternatives to typical salad greens. Their picks include arugula, baby bok choi, swiss chard, collard greens, watercress, cabbage and brussel sprout petals. Chef Patrick O'Connell came up with recipes for all of these alternatives, too.
The only potential drawback of this list is that most of the salads/sides are actually hot dishes, and not what you would necessarily expect to stand in for a pre-dinner salad. Fortunately, with fall and winter on the way, a warm salad can be very satisfying and this is a good opportunity to try a few new greens in a new way, such as Braised Baby Bok Choy or Brussel Sprout Petals with Coriander Vinaigrette.
Bagged greens usually state that they are pre-washed and ready to eat on their labels, but that doesn't mean that they are edible. In their most recent issue, Consumer Reports tested several types of bagged salad mixes for the "yuck factor," the phrase that they used to describe the percentage of the "ready to eat" greens that were wilted or otherwise inedible. It turned out that there was a lot of yucky stuff. Out of the 62 bags that they meticulously tested, inedible greens ranged from .5% to 83% of the salads and "the vast majority had 'off' odors, smelling like rotten vegetables, sauerkraut or chlorine... [or] imitation crab meat." Needless to say, they recommended buying greens and making your own salad mixes, or at least washing the bagged greens before eating them. Besides, as they rightly point out, it is less expensive to chop up your own lettuce - especially if you're going to have to throw away a portion of the bagged stuff that isn't as fresh as it should be.
With all the concern about this month's E. coli outbreak caused by fresh spinach, I have been operating under the assumption that one should avoid all spinach both cooked and raw. Given my meat intake, avoiding Popeye's favorite veggie in all its forms is no big deal for me.
I was ordering dinner at one of my favorite Chinese restaurants the other night when I found myself craving some greens to go with my short ribs. Without a second thought, I asked the waiter for a side of baby spinach with garlic. As he returned to the kitchen it dawned on me that I had ordered greens that might be harboring E. coli. Rather than change my order, I threw caution to the wind. The bright green baby spinach leaves studded through with tiny pieces of garlic and sitting atop a shallow pool of their cooking liquid were delicious.
As I walked home I was more than a little concerned that I might fall ill with cramps and perhaps worse. As you may now have guessed nothing of the sort occurred. The reason, as I just learned from an article in The Boston Globethis morning is that cooking destroys E. coli in spinach. So eat your greens with gusto, as long as they're cooked, that is.
Spinach salads are out for the moment, unless you feel like taking chances that even restaurants aren't willing to. Supermarkets are reporting a big drop in salad sales, but there is no reason to cut all greens out of your diet along with spinach. Now is the perfect time to experiment with some non-spinach salad greens. Some alternatives include:
Mâche - delicate, sweet and slightly nutty. It resembles a cross between young spinach and a tender lettuce.
Arugula - peppery and sharp. This green makes a great background for salads with sweet fruits or mild nuts in them
Chard - tender and sweet when cooked. Chard is a great alternative for spinach in cooked dishes (unless you opt for frozen spinach, which the USDA says is still safe to eat at the moment).
Dandelion Greens - sharper and more bitter than arugula. These are best when mixed with other greens, but choose smaller, more delicate leaves for salads
Romaine and iceberg lettuces can always stand in for other greens in salads, too, and can be a nice base for a salad when experimenting with other greens, particularly bitter greens.
A 20-year old Celtic supporter in Scotland is very devoted to his team and has taken his devotion far beyond the standards set be even the most die-hard tailgaters. He has vowed to eat only foods that are in the club's colors for the 2006/2007 season, meaning that he has eaten a diet of salad, green vegetables and white meat (mostly chicken and a little fish) since July.
Clearly, the young man, Scott Campbell, is lucky that there are actually quite a few foods that come in green and white. Had the team colors been blue and silver, he would have been wise to come up with another way to express his loyalty.
Does anyone else have any other dedication-through-food stories, or is Campbell the only one who has taken it this far?
I've read
any number of pieces waxing rhapsodic about collard greens cooked the soul food way - about how delicious was the
"pot likker" (I've really seen it spelled that way! honest!), about how wonderful the house smelled when you
set the smoked pork products to cooking. About how nothing says comfort like the rich, tender, porky piles of
essential vitamins and minerals. I doubted, but I figured I must be missing out on something really great. So, on slow
cooking day, I set out to make soul food-style greens.
Neither my expensive Italian market nor my lower-priced supermarket had smoked ham hocks (and I was secretly
relieved!) but they did have suggestion #2: smoked pork neck.
Here's how the recipe goes: you boil the smoked pork neck in several cups' water for hours until
it's falling off the bone. I used one pound, although most recipes call for two. You clean, destem,
and chop lots of collards - three to five bunches. I used three. You combine the mess
and let it cook, stirring occasionally, until the collards are tender. Salt, pepper and hot sauce to taste.
I just don't love this. I didn't enjoy the smell, and I really could barely finish my serving of collards. My mom
liked them, and so did a friend who's into soul food. Everyone else looked at them askance. I'll keep cooking collard
greens - but I think I'm going to stick to my Mediterranean-inspired version.
[Photo Sarah Gilbert. And disclaimer: I totally stole the title idea from Love My Crock]
Having not even met you, let me say this: you don't eat enough vegetables. Yeah, sure you eat loads of salads -- if
you call a handful of watery lettuce dipped in oil a "salad" -- but according to the health professionals,
you need three to twelve cups of broccoli and spinach a day just to be "average!" Those damned smug holistic
nutritionists! Do you think even they eat that much? Do you think they spend half their day holding their nose and
quaffing down carefully measured cuploads of soggy broccoli? And no, a tofu burger doesn't count as vegetables. And
yes, I too hate even thinking about satisfying my hunger at the diner with a side order of sautéed spinach when
everyone else is having cheese fries.
Don't think that slamming one of these $3 green juices at the deli is going to satisfy that measuring cup-crazed
nutritionist in the back of your mind. And here's something else: raw fresh vegetables and fresh fruit don't mix. Eat
them at the same time and you are asking for trouble… gastric, gaseous trouble. I remember temping at this ad
agency about ten years ago; it was lunch time and I was about to eat my random assemblage from the Chinese salad bar
deli next door: fresh strawberries, big vegetarian sushi roll, and fresh, raw broccoli. A visiting hippie chick friend
of mine, the sort who has read Diet for a New America all the way through, gave
me a look of concern as she and my co-worker went out to lunch. When they came back she took one look at my pale,
agonized, bloated face and told me she had been worried about my mixing all through her lunch, and that I should never
mix raw fruit and vegetables in the same meal.
She was a hippie nutritionist chick, and she knew.