Unlike a book not to be judged by its cover, you can always judge a cheese by its rind. Manchester, a raw goat's milk cheese from Consider Bardwell Farm in West Pawlet, Vt., has a stunning rustic rind (that must be eaten!) with ridges and brownish-yellow molds. In the U.S., we tend to associate mold with spoiled food; however, when it comes to artisanal cheese -- especially Manchester -- this association is just plain wrong.
The clay-like appearance of Manchester's ridges (which comes from the use of Italian cheese-basket molds) cannot be separated from the cheese's smooth, sweet aromatic flavor, which makes it comparable to a French Tomme de Savoie. In fact, it's the bacteria and mold around the cheese that contribute to this deliciously well-balanced masterpiece. Just eight weeks into the aging process, Manchester's rind already develops spots of red mold on what Peter Dixon, dairy foods consultant and cheesemaker at Consider Bardwell Farm, calls a "wild rind."
By "wild," does Dixon mean to say that the molds and the bacteria grow naturally out of nowhere? Well, yes and no. After making Manchester, Dixon uses a soft brush dipped in whey to wash the rind. "Whatever microbes like that [whey] will grow," says Dixon. "We make the cheese, and then create the look by turning the cheese and rubbing it a couple of times a week."
Unlike some goat's milk cheeses that have a pronounced grassy tang (that for some is unpleasant), Coupole has a mild vegetal taste that is sure to delight all palates. The chewy, dense, creamy texture of Coupole slowly dissolves on the back of the tongue, giving way to a subtle, sweet, yeasty flavor.
In fact, those interested in a beginner's goat cheese should look no further. Coupole is the perfect cheese to educate the less experienced palate on the grassy acidity of goat's milk. And, those who simply appreciate a well-made cheese will certainly be impressed by the well-balanced taste reminiscent of a "chicken-y risotto," according to Liz Thorpe, author of "The Cheese Chronicles" and vice president of Murray's.
Its taste may be atypically mild compared to other delicious goat's milk cheeses, like the ash-coated log from Pipe Dreams Farm, but its size and shape are definitely characteristic of a chèvre, such as Crottin de Chavignol -- a cylindrical dome. Indeed, Coupole's name translates from French to "cupola" or "dome."
Eateries: The South End's Teranga boasts delicious Senegalese fare, West Roxbury's Skara Grill gives great Greek, Gill's Wagon Wheel is a classic country drive-in and Lyndell's Bakery has opened up shop in the North End.
Usually, the thought of goat's milk cheeses conjures up images of small, freshly ripened, creamy-to-crumbly chèvres, like the French Valençay or Brad Parker's ashed log, which come in pyramid and log shapes, respectively. Little Bloom on the Prairie, from Prairie Fruits Farm in Champaign, Ill., defies all such expectations. When ripe, its texture turns into a succulent cream that slowly oozes from its rind. (Trust us, that's tastier than it sounds).
Little Bloom on the Prairie is a goat's milk cheese with a bloomy rind similar to Mont Vivant, but with a luscious consistency that make its texture more comparable to a rich Brie. Still, even though the cheese's silky touch matches that of a bloomy rind, its flavors are distinctly herbal, floral and even grassy (tastes often associated with goat's milk cheeses). In short, based upon its texture and appearance (this bloomy rind cheese is in the format of a smaller Camembert), Little Bloom on the Prairie seems like a typical runny cow's milk cheese.
As with life, however, appearances can be deceiving: A bite of this fromage reveals an unexpected yet pleasant tang.
Well, if you're a cheese, lots. From log-shaped ashed goat to pyramid-shaped Mont Vivant, the cheeses we've been covering in recent weeks come in different shapes and, believe it or not, those structures have a lot to do with how they taste.
A cheese with less surface area is often also a dense cheese, and sometimes needs to be aged longer for the flavors deep within the structure to fully develop. Consequently, small chèvres, such as the disc-shaped Rond Vivant from Rainbeau Ridge Farm may be more pungent. As Lisa Schwartz from Rainbeau expresses it, "the differences in surface area produce more than subtle variations in flavor."
Pressed onto a baguette, crumbled over salads, or eaten straight, we can't get enough of goat cheese in springtime.
This year, voluptuaries and gastronomes seeking a decadently rich and creamy goat's milk cheese will go wild for Rainbeau Ridge Farm's Mont Vivant. Unlike other mold-ripened goat's milk cheeses (like Selles sur Cher or Valençay), this offering from Bedford Hills, NY has an exquisite bloomy rind (unusual in goat's milk cheeses) that seems to impart a more complex and cakey texture, as if it were a cross between Valençay and Brie.
Locavores and others yearning for an American alternative to French springtime goat's milk cheeses like Montrachet and Saint Maure de Touraine will most definitely delight in the ash-coated log from Pipe Dreams Farm in Greencastle, Penn.
This dense, 12-ounce "ashed log" of goat's milk cheese tastes mildly grassy, nutty and slightly peppery towards its edible ash rind. When the cheese is sliced, its paste exudes a seductive floral aroma with hints of citrus fruit. In a word, it's exquisite. But goat cheese is goat cheese, no?
Hoja Santa cheese looks as though it's been gift-wrapped by Mother Nature.
Pronounced OH-ha SAHN-tah, the goat's milk cheese is aged in the minty leaves of a Texan plant called hoja santa ("sacred leaves," in Spanish). It's a gift for the palate, too (unlike some cheeses wrapped in chestnut, grape or fig leaves) -- not too funky, with a clean finish reminiscent of sassafras, eucalyptus and lingering mint.
A relatively recent discovery in fromage terms, this cheese arrived on the scene courtesy of Texan Paula Lambert, a self-proclaimed "urban cheesemaker" who has been crafting it since the early 1980s. After seeing hoja santa used to wrap salmon at a local restaurants she had a "Eureka!" moment a few years later while pondering the French banon, which is covered with chestnut leaves. Wishing to create a Texan incarnation, she found herself stumped for greenery: "I wanted to use something local," she recalls, "and had a hoja santa plant in my garden. Then I remembered [those] fish dishes and voila!"
This mix of cakey, creamy goat's milk cheese and mint is a truly unique gastronomic experience. If the typically strong flavors of wrapped French cheeses are a bit much for you, give it a try. Purchase it directly from Lambert's Mozzarella Company online for $21 per pound or in specialty food shops where available.
Have you tried hoja santa or other wrapped cheeses? Got a favorite?
While this goat's milk cheese looks identical to the famous Loire valley Valencay, Mekkerbeck is a unique farmhouse goat's milk cheese handmade in Westmalle in Northern Belgium by Paul D'Haene and his wife, Veerle Minsaer. This larger format Valencay has an outstanding bright flavor that is hard to find in many of the industrialized Valencay imported from France.
You'll automatically smell the exquisite herbal and floral notes that emanate from the paste. While tasting Mekkerbeck, the thin skin of ashed rind slowly dissolves into the luscious creamy texture of this pristine white goat's-milk cheese. Both the succulent texture and complex finish produce an unforgettable and exhilarating gastronomic experience.
Mekkerbeck tastes even more exquisite during the springtime when the 200 goats are grazing on natural pasture. In a country dominated by washed-rind cow's-milk cheeses, D'Haene's passion for producing some of the finest goat's milk cheeses is truly unique. For 30 years, the couple has been perfecting their craft.
To taste this one-of-a-kind goat's milk cheese, head to Formaggio Kitchen in Cambridge, Mass., or to Formaggio Essex in New York. Formaggio is the sole purveyor of Mekkerbeck in the U.S. One piece sells for about $19. It's worth it.
Don't be mislead by the image you see above. I really do recommend making this salad with arugula, I just wasn't able to find a picture of it from the time I made it that way, so you'll have to imagine arugula (or mixed greens, if you prefer) in place of the chopped romaine. Arugula, Goat Cheese and Pomegranate Salad
1 big handful of arugula per person at your dinner 1 slivered red onion 1 package of chevre-style goat cheese (about two inches per person is what I tend to do) the seeds of one pomegranate (think 1 pomegranate for ever four people)
Honey Lemon Vinaigrette
1/2 cup lemon juice (2-3 large lemons) zest from one of the lemons (zest prior to squeezing juice - it's much easier) 2 tablespoons honey pinch of kosher salt 4-5 grinds of black pepper 1 cup olive oil
Mix lemon juice, honey and zest together in a medium sized bowl and stir until the honey dissolves into the lemon juice. Add salt and pepper. Slowly stream in olive oil as you whisk, until the oil is all incorporated. Store in a jar with a tight fitting lid until you're ready to serve, so that you can shake it to reincorporate.
Assembly
Heap the greens in a large salad bowl. Scatter the onion slices around (you don't have to use a whole onion's worth if you aren't a fan). Top with dollops of goat cheese and then scatter the pomegranate seeds on top. Just before serving, dress and toss.
Where to begin with this sweet and grassy goat's milk cheese shaped like a little bell, une clochette? Clochette emanates a gorgeous bright floral aroma. Its rich dense texture seems to melt into cream on your palate. The cheese is produced in the region of Poitou-Charentes starting at the end of March and ending some time in autumn. Its appearance varies. Sometimes, it is covered in natural green and white molds. When it's really fresh, there are almost no molds, but if there are, do not fret - you can eat them too!
Besides its distinctive luscious tang, it posseses the most adorable name, Clochette, meaning "little bell" in English. Although the flavors are not challenging, it fits its category perfectly as a fresh-ripened goat's milk cheese. It is incredibly well-balanced and not too rich. In fact, it could be aged for as little as two weeks.
You can purchase Clochette at almost any cheese shop or specialty food store with a reputable cheese department. When you bring it home, let it set out in room temperature for a couple of hours before savoring it. Clochette is delicious slightly warmed up. Try a slice of it with some fresh raspberries and a glass of sparkling white wine.
We've been talking a lot about ice cream lately, so I became extremely excited yesterday when I found this article over at The Huffington Post. It features goat's milk ice cream, an intriguing dairy creation that's apparently healthier than regular ice cream and popular with celebrities like Jim Carrey and Kate Hudson.
The brand discussed in the article is called Laloo -- check out the site for details and adorable pictures of baby goats (kids, I know, but baby goats sounds so much cuter). After consulting the list of local dealers, I found out that it's actually sold at tons of stores that are close to my home. I'm a bit cautious about trying it, but if any of you have rave reviews, I may just have to go and purchase a pint. Anyone?
Have you noticed how hard and dry goat's milk cheeses become after spending a couple of weeks in the fridge? They may seem as though they are ready to be thrown away. Although they will not taste as good on their own, there are several ways you could use these dried out morsels of cheese to add flavor to a dish.
At a Super Bowl Party filled with Velveeta-laden spreads and greasy potato chips, crostini can be a welcome alternative. This recipe is one of my favorites: it pairs creamy goat cheese, tart red peppers and a toasty baguette for a refreshing break from the norm.
When I was at the farmers market on Saturday with Sarah, I picked up a couple pounds of gorgeous-looking beets, without much of a plan other than they called out to me. Yesterday afternoon around 3 pm, they started to talk to me from the vegetable drawer and so I put a pot of water on the stove to boil them up. I had picked up a package of chevre at Trader Joe's and I started to imagine a beet and goat cheese salad with red onion, olive oil and balsamic vinegar.
While I was in the middle of making some relatives showed up and my cooked beets spent about an hour gently cooling in their skins on the kitchen counter. When I finally got back to them, they slipped out of their skins easily. I cut them into half moons, tossed them with some great olive oil that somehow wandered into my parents' kitchen, the crumbled chevre, some slivered and soaked (in attempt to make them a little less pungent) red onion, a little balsamic, a bit of cracked black pepper and some salt.
I had intended to top it with some toasted walnuts, but people came in and started eating it before I got to that step. Instead I just cut off a hunk of sourdough from a loaf I bought at New Seasons earlier in the day and scooped up a plate of beet salad for myself. They were some of the best beets I'd ever had, sweet and earthy and so tender. If you have some beets laying around, this is a great way to make them appeal to a large swath of people, as no one who has passed through the house yet has been able to say no to it.
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