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Baking terms defined: Autolyse

An open bag of flour on a countertop seen from above.Have you ever seen those big fluffy baguettes that the label says are one pound, but that seem really big for that weight? That's achieved through intensively mixing the dough so that the gluten is developed all the way, which allows the bread to expand quite a bit. There are several problems with this, though, not the least of which is that mixing the dough so intensively bleaches out all the color and flavor.

There's a solution to this problem that was invented by Raymond Calvel, a French baker who wrote "The Taste of Bread." Mr. Calvel developed a way to get the big fluffy bread while retaining its color and flavor. It's called autolyse, which translates as 'self destruct.' Autolyse is done when you mix only the flour and water of a bread recipe and let that rest for at least twenty minutes, and up to an hour. The flour and water are mixed enough that they are thoroughly incorporated, but not beyond that. This allows the flour to hydrate and the enzymes to start working, particularly protease which works to break down the protein in the flour.
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Filed under: Ingredients

The wonderful world of preferments: Pate fermente

Pate fermente, a type of preferment, in a bucket.
Pâte fermenté is translated as "old dough." It is literally a finished dough that is added to the freshly mixed dough. This may seem odd, but the practice probably started when home cooks had to save a piece of the old dough to make sure they had leavening for the next days bread. It can either be made especially for whatever bread you're making, or you could save a portion of the dough you make today and use it in tomorrows loaf.

Since it is an old dough, pâte fermenté does contain salt, in addition to the flour, water, and yeast. That's fine because the dough has still been able to develop the yeast and organic acids over the fermentation period. The pâte fermenté must be refrigerated overnight, and you can add it either cold or at room temperature to the new dough. Because the gluten has already been developed as well as the yeast and acids, the pâte fermenté should be added toward the end of the mix. That way, the gluten in the pâte fermenté won't get over developed.

Filed under: Ingredients

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The Boston Globe in 60 seconds: Sake and Sauerkraut

egg and cheese sandwiches

Filed under: Newspapers, In Sixty Seconds

Gluten-free pancakes for Fat Tuesday

Our pancake roundup this morning only included eight delicious recipes that were sure to tempt just about everyone to get out their frying pan and make up a batch. But as tempting as they may have been, most of the recipes presented there would not be good choices for gluten-free eaters because they were almost all flour-based. In fact, most pancake recipes are. Fortunately, there happen to be a lot of equally delicious gluten-free pancake options out there that ensure everyone who wants to can celebrate Fat Tuesday (a.k.a. National Pancake Day).

The easiest GF option is a pancake mix. Jay used Kinnikinnick Pancake Mix to make the lovely stack pictured above. There are many mixes out there to choose from, including Bob's Red Mill, which is widely available at Whole Foods Stores.

If you want to make your own, try using an alternative flour, as was done in these Rice Flour Crepes or Almond Flour Pancakes. You can find several more GF pancake recipes here, which use buckwheat, quinoa, potato flour and other gluten-free bases.

[Thanks for the reminder, Jay!]

Filed under: On the Blogs, How To

New standards for gluten-free food

Unfortunately for those who are gluten-intolerant, the standards for gluten-free foods aren't exactly standard, so it can be risky when buying many foods, especially processed foods, at the store. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) is in charge of regulating the nutritional information that gets put on food labels and they have drafted a proposal that would set a standard definition for the term "gluten free" and set standards for food producers to follow to meet it.

"Currently there is neither a regulatory definition of the term 'gluten free,' nor is there agreement among manufacturers or consumers as to what this term means," said the FDA. Their new rules state that "gluten free" foods must not have any type of wheat, rye or barley, including hybrid grains that use them. They allow for the use of such grains if the gluten is completely removed before processing, however. The terms that will be imposed on those who violate the new guidelines, assuming that they are accepted, has yet to be determined. The FDA will take comments on the proposal (PDF) for several weeks before revising it and making their final ruling.

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Filed under: Health & Medical, Ingredients

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