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The world of pie and tart crusts: Ingredients and functions

The front of a package of lard.
Flour is the basic structural ingredient. It's the starch in the flour that will, when mixed with liquid and heated in the oven, gelatinize and set when cooled. Flour also contains the proteins you need to make gluten, which is great for baking bread but not so desirable for making pie crusts. All you have to do is use a flour with a lower protein content, which generally means all purpose flour (cake flour might be too weak).

Fats are considered tenderizing agents for baked goods like cakes and pie crusts, rather than shortening agents like they would be for bread. In pie crusts, fats like oil, vegetable shortening, butter, and lard prevent gluten from getting formed in the first place by coating the flour granules, thus ensuring tenderness. Flakiness is achieved by the way you mix the dough: larger chunks of fat from less mixing make for more flakiness while more mixing and smaller fat chunks make a less flaky crust. They also add a lot of flavor, especially in the case of butter and animal fats. Lard and butter are also generally considered to have a better feel in the mouth, and lard is reputed to create a flakier crust than other fats.

Water and milk are the most common liquids, while buttermilk, eggs, and cream can also be used. Liquids function as a binding agent: they allow all of the ingredients to be evenly dissolved and incorporated. They also hydrate the the starch and protein in the flour and activate whatever leavening is being used. If you're using a liquid besides water, you're also adding fats, sugar, and acidity which is a good thing. The fats add tenderness, the adds to crust color, and the acidity makes the dough more stable and easier to roll out as well as taste better. Make sure to always use a cold liquid to keep the fat nice and cold, so it'll retain its shape/temperature and produce a flaky product.

Eggs are used for hydrating the dough, creating structure, giving color to the dough, and flavor. The whites are 90% water and the rest protein, so that aids in hydration and structure. The yolks are 50% water with the rest being mostly fat, contributing to hydration and tenderness as well as flavor and crust color.

Sugar adds sweetness and contributes the most to crust color. Ths crust turns golden brown because the sugar in the dough caramelizes as it's baked. Also, the texture of the dough can be changed by using sugar ground to different levels of fineness. For instance, powdered sugar makes a dough that is smoother, even if it doesn't taste as good as granulated.

Filed under: Methods

The Globe and Mail in 60 seconds: Defending fat, baking, and more

lard
  • Jennifer McLagan defends fat and details its tasty history.
  • As prices skyrocket, bakers try to come up with cheaper alternatives.
  • It looks like Vancouver's Raincity Grill is suffering under a rain of chaos and disappointing food and service.
  • Ewenity Dairy Co-operative's battling gouda-style cheeses -- pasteurized and raw.
  • When absurd statutes bite you in the keester -- a Prohibition-era "law makes it illegal for anyone to send or carry beverage alcohol across a provincial border without the consent of the government in the destination province."

Filed under: In Sixty Seconds

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Six of the fattiest ice creams

Haagen Dazs

We all know that ice cream is fatty. My mom likes to remind me that when I'm licking an ice cream cone, I'm essentially licking a ball of fat. I try to remove that image from my mind and instead picture that I'm licking a little ball of heaven. However, it is wise to be informed of what you are eating. In that light, I present you with Newsweek's list of six of the most fattening ice creams - all nutrition information is for a serving size of a half cup.

1. Häagen-Dazs Chocolate Peanut Butter (360 calories, 24 grams of fat)

2. Ben and Jerry's Chubby Hubby (330 calories, 20 grams of fat)

3. Häagen-Dazs Butter Pecan (310 calories, 23 grams of fat)

4. Sheer Bliss Pomegranate with chocolate chips (320 calories, 20 grams fat)

5. Ben and Jerry's Vermonty Python (300 calories, 19 grams of fat)

6. Coldstone Cookie Batter (300 calories, 16 grams of fat)

Check out the complete Newsweek article for a breakdown of what makes each one as bad as it is and some ideas for healthier alternatives.

[via That's Fit]

Filed under: Newspapers, Ingredients

Cathedrals of bacon fat

cathedral of bacon fatOK, this is definitely what I want for my birthday: a 1944 booklet entitled White Art in the Meat Food Business. A Practical Handbook for Butcher, Pork Stores, Restaurants, Hotels and Delicatessens on How to Make Lasting and Transferable White Art Decorations out of Bacon Fat Back for Window Displays, Ornaments on Meat Food Cold Buffets and for Exhibits and Advertising Purposes.

The book teaches you how to construct cathedrals, vases of roses and Santa Claus faces out of nothing but white bacon fat! Who doesn't need that? And I love the euphemistic "white art." I Guess "fat art" didn't have such a nice ring.

Ptak Science Books found this in a random Library of Congress pamphlet collection years ago, but who knows, maybe a second copy will turn up at my local Goodwill? I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

Source

Filed under: Food Oddities, On the Blogs, Ingredients, Books, How To

All McDonald's locations now sans trans-fat



...Well, almost. The corporation has officially switched all of its cooking oils to trans-fat free in its U.S. and Canadian restaurants, but many of the premade products - like pies and cookies - still contain the artery-clogging ingredient.

You probably remember hearing about this - or even thinking it had already happened- because Mickie D's announced the plan awhile ago. In fact, while they were drumming up press, Wendy's, KFC and Taco Bell all made the switch to trans fat-free cooking oil.

So, thanks, McD's. Now Americans and Canadians have another way to rationalize our insane consumption of fried foods.

Source

Filed under: Newspapers, Chefs & Restaurants, Fast Food, Restaurants

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