"dimsum" news and stories

The thing that really whet my appetite about dim sum when I first tried it was an umistakable sense of being immersed in a neverending cavalcade of cart-borne deliciousness. Alas, as with all passions, this newfound chowlust abated.

That's not to say that I didn't still have my favorites after the honeymoon was over. I like har gao, with their crystalline wrappers bursting with shrimp, as much as the next guy. And I always try to save room for some creamy dou fu fa, spiked with a liberal splash of sorghum syrup to sweeten the nutty, fresh hot tofu. I'm also always on the lookout for such special dishes as fried whole shrimp showered in slivers of garlic and jalapenos. But for what seems like forever I haven't snatched up anything really new with my chopsticks.

Until last week. My longtime yum cha buddy and I were three-quarters through a meal at Manhattan's Jing Fong when a cart rolled by bearing the above delight. At first glance we were sure that this dainty pear-shaped  trio must be some type of dessert. I can't say whether we thought this because we were nearly stuffed or because they were fruit-shaped.

As you've no doubt guessed by now, there was nothing fruity about these pears. Encased within the golden crust was a savory mixture of chopped porky goodness. Oh, about those stems, they're stems all right – cilantro stems.

One of the best things about my Inner Richmond San Francisco nabe is its proximity to the real Chinatown in the city. Not the touristic place where dollar store owners hawk fake jade and shot glasses to tourists, but the bustling, neighborhoody area where Chinese and non-Chinese alike do their shopping.

One of my favorite establishments in the Inner Richmond is Wing Lee Bakery on Clement and 5th. Not a bakery like you are thinking (although they do offer up sweet treats), "bakery" is the traditional name for shops that sell dim sum, too. The best thing about Wing Lee is that they serve fresh dim sum and other savory tasties for cheap. An order (3 pieces) will cost you no more than $1.30, and if you just want a bite, they also sell their dim sum by the piece.

Today I shoved $5 in my pocket and headed off in search of lunch. I selected coriander dumplings, both boiled and pan-fried leek dumplings (my fave), pork siu mai, a spring roll and a couple of baked char siu bao (pork buns). Then I took it all home, brewed some chrysanthemum tea, and my daughters and I had a feast for lunch.

[Photo Stefania Butler]