'The Perfect Scoop' Recipes by David Lebovitz Photographs by Lara Hata Ten Speed Press -- 2007 Buy it on Amazon
Clinging to the very last bit of warm weather, we hoped that making several batches of ice cream would encourage Mother Nature to hold out on cooler weather for a little longer. David Lebovitz, a well-known pastry chef, received much of his training at Alice Waters' Chez Panisse in California. Now based in Paris, Lebovitz merges all things sweet and makes them manageable for the home cook. "The Perfect Scoop" is a testament to how ice cream should be made: creamy, sweet, savory and with unlimited creativity.
While ice cream takes center stage, Lebovitz also includes recipes for sorbets, sherbets, granitas, sauces and toppings. Boasting both classics, such as Malted Milk and Tin Roof Ice Cream, and more modern flavors of Crème Fraiche, Goat Cheese and Roquefort Honey Ice Creams, this book lends itself to a wide audience. Strawberry and Mojito Granitas will be a big hit at the next autumn barbecue, and adults and children alike with be excited to see the bright fruit sherbet and sorbet combinations.
See what we tested and find out whether the book's worth buying after the jump.
Towering, craggy and full of inviting nooks and crannies, this mountain of white chocolate and sour cherry scones is one that cries out to be scaled.
Baked by the estimable David Lebovitz, they are, as OutKast might sing, the prototype for the perfect scone, studded with an abundance of cherries, dusted with just the enough sugar for a satisfying crunch and harboring untold depths of white chocolate.
Lebovitz admits to devouring almost two batches in the space of a week; based upon the evidence presented above, who could blame him?
Barbecuing isn't all about the meats; it's also about the sauces and toppings. The Globe looks into which Boston restaurants serve exceptional sauces.
Anybody who's eaten Chinese skewered lamb or Korean pulgogi knows that grilling isn't just for barbecues and warm weather, as this look at grilled Asian foods attests.
A Q&A with David Lebovitz about his new book, "The Sweet Life in Paris."
Talk about high-tech: Barcelona's Monvinic displays their daunting wine list on PC tablets, and pairs it with truly market-fresh food.
Looking at this cheese is a little like meditating. It's the most serene, perfect thing we've laid eyes on in the past week -- a little cloud floating innocuously against a blue (OK, teal) sky. The knife at its side hints at its imminent demise, but really, who aside from vegans or the lactose-intolerant wouldn't want to partake of the cheese's ample charms? Former Chez Panisse pastry chef David Lebovitz, the author of numerous wonderful cookbooks and a Paris resident for the past seven years, purchased this silver dollar-sized disc of Rocamadour (a raw goat's milk fromage) for a dinner party he was throwing for friends. While much of his accompanying commentary extols the virtues of the comté he also bought, it's this diminutive beauty that has us dreaming of baguettes, a drizzle of honey and deeply discounted Air France tickets.
Normally, macarons are like the one above, colorful, light, and full of sweetness. But what if it wasn't?
The world has seen chocolate on chicken and bacon cookies, so why not Ketchup Macarons? It's almost natural -- tomatoes are fruit too, yet they never get the cookie love. Just replace that center above with the spice of ketchup.
David Lebovitz recently whipped up a batch of Pierre Hermé's ketchup macarons, noting the perception in Europe that Americans put ketchup on everything. I can't say I blame them for that assessment (sandwiches, eggs, fries, meat, you name it). But making it into a cookie... That's something I want to taste for myself.
And speaking of unique cookie flavors: What's the most unique cookie flavor you've ever tasted?
It's the fourth Friday of August and my office is dead quiet. Half the staff is out on vacation and the other half is surfing the internet, trying to pass the minutes until it's time to go home. Here are some of the things I've been reading to make the moments fly by until the end of the day...
Looking for a greener way to do your grocery shopping? Check out the iZip Tricruiser.
If you grew up in California, then you probably have memories of getting ice cream cones at the Thrifty Drug store (now Rite Aid). They used a cylindrical scoop to dole out their ice cream and Kate has finally found one that replicates that experience.
I've been cooking, in one way or another, for more than 20 years. That includes my early childhood experiments like when I would try to make hashbrowns on the days when I stayed home from school. Although tasty, they were always grey, a bit mushy and very visually unappealing. In recent years I've come to be something of an adequate cook, but I know that there is always more for me to learn.
It's in that spirit of continuing food education, that I particular love the post that David Lebovitz put up the day after Thanksgiving called "Ten Easy Ways to Improve Your Cooking." His tips are really helpful and include such easy changes as using lots of shallots, making a point of incorporating fresh herbs and rethinking the oils and vinegars you cook with. Another reason to go and check out this post is for the pictures as they are just lovely (that picture of thyme up above is borrowed from his post).
There must be something in the air, because while I didn't see this post until yesterday, about a week ago on a whim I bought a large bag of shallots at my local produce market. It's been lovely having them on hand as an alternative to my normal garlic and onions. They give food a sweeter, gentler flavor that I'm loving. They aren't wimpy though and still pack a punch that stands up to many of the stronger tastes out there.
Every so often I go through phases where I try to reduce the amount of refined white sugar I eat (this is obviously not one of them, given the fact that I was baking a cake last night). It's during those times that I've acquired a variety of different sweeteners, including sucanat (basically slightly healthier cane sugar), a very large bottle of honey and a smaller squirt-bottle of agave nectar. I'm not a huge fan of the chemically constructed artificial sweeteners, I've never been able to get over their bitter aftertaste, so I haven't done any cooking with them.
Agave nectar (Nicole wrote about it here on Slashfood last February) has become my favorite substitute for sugar in drinks like iced tea and chai and now the very clever David Lebovitz has found a way to use it in agave-sweetened chocolate ice cream in order to create a frozen treat that rests at the low end of the glycemic index. I think I need to make room in my freezer for my ice cream bowl and try this one out.
I have sort of an unconventional travel resume. When I was 16 I spent three weeks in Poland, eating more pork in 21 days than I had consumed in the previous decade. The summer after I graduated from college I spent a month and a half in Indonesia, with a brief stopover in Hong Kong. Jakarta could have been a foodie paradise, except I continually made poor choices in street food and spent most of the time with a seriously uncomfortable stomach. I haven't had much luck in the way of foodie vacations.
While I'm not much of a francophile, David Lebovitz now has me longing to pack a bag and get on a plane to Paris. The reason? The most recent post on his blog, Living the Sweet Life in Paris. Friends and acquaintances often ask him to name a few places that they shouldn't miss when they visit the City of Lights and so he decided to create a post listing Ten Insanely Delicious Things You Shouldn't Miss in Paris. With pictures. Delicious!
For my last birthday, a (very generous) friend got me the ice cream maker that fits onto a Kitchen Aid mixer. I was thrilled to receive it, but then tucked it at the top of my kitchen cabinet and left it to languish for more than a month. My excuses were many, included the fact that life got busy, I didn't have room in my freezer to chill the bowl and I just didn't have any good recipes for ice cream.
However, in my travels through the many food blogs out there, I kept hearing about a book that contained fantastic and tasty recipes. The pictures and tales people posted tempted me out of my ice cream apathy, I ordered the book (David Lebovitz's The Perfect Scoop) and started my own experimentation with the wonders of homemade ice cream. My most recent batch was the Fresh Ginger Ice Cream (on page 43), and let me tell you, it was fantastic. I took it to dinner with friends, and at the end of the night I ran my finger around the bottom of the container in a vain attempt to grab the last few drops. The recipe is after the jump.
In my mind, Perfect Light Desserts: Fabulous Cakes, Cookies, Pies, and More Made with Real Butter, Sugar, Flour, and Eggs, All Under 300 Calories Per Generous Serving has more than just a few good things going for it. Obviously, it is geared towards slightly less fattening/lower calorie treats. The recipes use less butter or sugar than they might otherwise, and often make substitutions like swapping egg whites for whole eggs. No artificial sweeteners or other ingredients are incorporated into the pies, cakes, cookies and other baked goods, so the recipes will taste just as satisfying as their high-calorie counterparts with less guilt attached.
If you like to bake, this is definitely one to add to your wish list for the holidays - although if you sneak out and buy yourself a copy, you'll get to "wow" your family and friends in a way that they'll appreciate at parties and other festive (food-related) occasions.
David Lebovitz thinks that Chocolate Covered Marshmallows are a difficult food to photograph and I have to agree with him, having spent a good deal of time photographing marshmallows myself. Those little pillows of sugar have a softness and lightness to them that is hard to capture on film, although that ethereal quality is not exactly what he was referring to when he expressed that opinion. He was referring to the fact that he couldn't stop eating them once he started. I don't blame him one bit, judging from this shot that he managed to snap before they were all gone.
His marshmallows are from Pierre Marcolini in Paris, but if last year was any indication, the closer we get to the holiday shopping season, the easier it will be to find chocolate covered marshmallows at chocolatiers and specialty shops in your area.
I considered cropping the picture of these Dulce de Leche Brownies, baked by Zarah Maria of Food and Thoughts, so it wouldn't be quite so tall, but I just couldn't bring myself to cut the brownies - unless it was with a knife, of course. The recipe she used is from David Lebovitz's recipe archives. It is a fairly standard brownie recipe with dulce de leche - thick, sweet caramelized milk - spread on top. Some stores carry dulce de leche in the section with the condensed and evaporated milks, but if your store doesn't, you may have to make if yourself. David gives some tips on how to do that in his recipe for the brownies.
For a somewhat less guilty version, you could try swirling some dulce de leche on top of a batch of No Pudge Brownies before baking them, too.
Jam does not have to be sweet, though it is most often defined as a preserved mixture of cooked fruit and sugar that is quite sweet. David Lebovitz kept in some of the fruit and sugar elements of a traditional jam, but added some less traditional elements to make his Shallot, Beer, Prune, and Cocoa Nib Jam. It might not be the perfect complement for your morning scone or muffin, but the sweet and savory relish makes a nice hors d'oeuvre spread with cheese and crackers or counterpart to meaty dishes, such as lamb or, as David suggests, foie gras. And even f you don't want it on a scone, it would probably still make a lovely addition to breakfast with eggs and sausage.
I noticed that David Lebovitz mentioned a concept that occurs with food stuffs in all walks of life. It is the idea that some things are too special to eat. He mentions that even in a high end restaurant that specialized in expensive, seasonal foods and went out of their way to procure the very best ingredients, some were lost because they were deemed "too good to use."
It sounds wasteful, since the food that is so precious often goes uneaten until it is past its prime, but I know that I am not the only one who is guilty of doing the same thing on at least one occasion. I have "saved" perfect strawberries, wanting to use them with the perfect dessert, only to discover that they've gone bad by the time I want to use them. I have jars of gourmet marinades, probably from gift baskets or weekends in the wine country, that now have a thin layer of dust because I have yet to open them. Why is it that the "right time" to eat something doesn't always seem like the present?
I now make an active effort to use things up when I get them. Wonderful food is no less "special" because I don't wait too long to taste it and, in fact, may be even better because it's fresher; you will never find yourself scraping mold off the surface of a jar of a particularly wonderful chocolate spread because you waited too long to open it.
Towering, craggy and full of inviting nooks and crannies, this mountain of white chocolate and sour cherry 
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