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"chicken liver" news and stories

Foie gras ban takes effect in Chicago

Yesterday, August 22nd, was the last day that foie gras was served in Chicago without penalty to restaurateurs. All across the city, diners were savoring their last few bites of the rich, fatty delicacy that could be purchased within the city limits.

And instead of expressing resignation, people are still worked up over the ban. Chicago Mayor Daley, who had a change to veto the ban but did not take it, wants the City Council to reconsider and says that he won't push for aggressive enforcement of the law. Daley asserts that only a handful of restaurants even serve the food, though other sources note that even a number of "downscale" places added it to their menus, making the total higher than Daley's guess of 5 or 6 restaurants.

The city council has no intention of repealing the ban, according to Alderman Joe Moore, especially because they are not alone in banning foie gras, joining ten European countries and California that have total or partial bans on the manufacture and sale of the delicacy. Alderman also notes that the Mayor cannot "pick and choose which laws to enforce," so the ban will receive the same attention as other matters.

For those still looking to get a taste of foie gras in Chicago, chef Tony Mantuano at Spiaggia is serving up a vegetarian version "made from chickpeas, vin santo and olive oil, among other ingredients" on crostini. At Tru, the caviar lounge is serving a "faux gras" made with chicken liver.

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Filed under: Lush Life, Trends, Chefs & Restaurants, Restaurants

Cooking with Wine: Italian chicken liver sauce

wine with sage and shallotsUntil this dish, I was never a liver lover. Once again, I witnessed the amazing transformative properties of bacon, actually, in this case, pancetta. The following recipe has evolved since I started making it, and over the years I've incorporated aspects of recipes from Saveur, Marcella Hazan and Mark Bittman.

While this 'sauce' can easily serve as a fine pasta course with some pappardelle, my favorite thing to do is turn it into a paté by blending it in the food processor with a little tomato paste. The tomato paste adds an acidic sweetness to the liver and turns the color from that muddy paté-gray to a wonderful rust color.

[Photo: Nick Vagnoni]

Filed under: Spirited Cooking Day, Ingredients, Drink Recipes

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