"cheesemakers" news and stories

There's no question that Wisconsin is a dairy state. From the opening of its first cottage-cheese factory in 1841 to being the first state, in 1921, to rank its cheese based on quality, Wisconsin plays a historical role in America's perception of dairy. And, that's why we're kicking off our series on cheese states to visit with Wisconsin. After all, one of the best ways to view American dairies is to head directly to the state where much of today's American cheese culture began.

The best way to approach Wisconsin cheese is to visit a few of the state's many different farms, to learn their techniques firsthand, and to meet the cheesemakers themselves. The Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board (WMMB) just created a user-friendly list of that state's cheesemakers and cheese shops. We've highlighted our top five must-see cheesemakers based on their ingenuity, their use of Wisconsin land and the overall quality of their cheese.

At the Vermont Cheesemakers Festival last weekend, it was when a girl wearing a cheese hat walked by -- we were nowhere near Wisconsin, and there were zero Packers in sight -- that we realized the extent of cheesemania 'round these parts.

The sold-out festival took place on the grounds of a farm, appropriately -- Shelburne Farms -- and its primary sponsor was Vermont Butter & Cheese. And the 50 cheesemakers present, who had lured chefs, locals and fromage freaks from far afield, delivered quite a variety of fare. From chocolate-covered cheeses to cheese-and-chili-stuffed breads, the gamut was on offer.

Tickets were cheap, too: $20 for all-you-can-cheese, with $10 for wine and beer tastes. The old and young ran amok over the verdant grounds (this one got completely lost while trying to walk from one part of the sprawling farm to another). Children sampled cheddar voraciously, farmers shook hands, and we observed more than one woman sipping beer cautiously while a baby slept nestled against her chest. It seemed like a family affair. Though panels were available on how to pair and make cheeses, it was the stuff itself that got our attention.

Our top 10 favorite cheeses and photo editor Rachel Been's attached photo gallery after the jump.

At the annual World Cheese Awards, which were held this month in London, California cheesemakers proved that the California Milk Advisory Board's slogan "California: it's the cheese" is true. The state took home 13 awards, including 3 gold medals, 3 silver and 7 bronze - more than any other state in the country. Among the winners were:

• Marin French Cheese Company, Petaluma, for Petit Dejeuner (Gold), Wild Blackberry Quark (Gold), Garlic Brie (Bronze), Pesto Brie (Bronze) and Petit Creme (Bronze)
• Fiscalini Cheese Company, Modesto, for San Joaquin Gold (Silver) and Bandage Wrapped Premium Cheddar (Bronze)
• Mozzarella Fresca, Benicia, for Fresh Mozzarella -- Acid Set (Gold) and Fresh Mozzarella -- Cryovac (Bronze)
• Bravo Farms, Visalia, for Western Sage Cheddar (Silver)
• Cantare Foods, San Diego, for Whole Milk Mozzarella Boconcini (Silver)
• Bellwether Farms, Petaluma, for Carmody Semi Hard Cows' Milk Unpressed (Bronze)
• Winchester Cheese Company, Winchester, for Sharp Gouda (Bronze).

Over the past three years, California has won a total of 24 awards at the WCAs, and the increase this year means that California cheeses, like California wines, are gaining international recognition.

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