"cheese" news and stories

The black-greenish powdery film of vegetable ash that runs through the middle of cheeses is often mistakenly identified as mold. In cheeses, such as Humboldt Fog, this layer of edible ash is purely aesthetic. But, when it comes to Morbier, a French cow's milk cheese, it's all about giving the impression of preserving tradition. Hundreds of years ago the line of ash separated the morning milk from the afternoon milk; sadly, that's no longer the case. Interestingly, this custom is being revived and reworked by an American dairy, Prairie Fruits Farm in Champaign, Illinois. In their pyramid-shaped Krotovina (shown above), vegetable ash divides the cheese into two distinct parts – goat's milk and sheep's milk.

Warning: Cheese washed in beer may sound like a perfect combination – and for flavorists, it definitely is – but it sure makes a stink. Garbage that's been sitting out for days, dirty undergarments, and rotting food are just a few odors that come to mind when taking a whiff of Sablé de Wissant, a raw cow's milk cheese washed in wheat beer and sprinkled with breadcrumbs. Sable de Wissant isn't alone. When researchers at Cranfield University in the U.K. used an electric nose to find the world's smelliest cheese, they identified another soft cow's milk cheese washed in beer – Vieux Boulogne. So why does beer cheese smell so bad?

When it comes to cheese, surprisingly, there is a universe of caramel and butterscotch flavors to explore. Often occurring in aged cheeses, such as French Mimolette and Dutch Roomano, the sensation of savoring the candy-like flavor happens thanks to the type of milk used to produce the cheese and the process of affinage. This is certainly the case with an aged piece of Capricious, a goat's milk cheese from Achadinha Cheese Company in Petaluma, Calif. Below its rustic brown rind is a yellowish white paste and a caramel-like treat.

This time of the year, with temperatures routinely in the nineties, no fruit is more refreshing than watermelon. Those seeking a break from the heat can enjoy the cool taste of chilled watermelon salad with feta cheese. To find out the best way to combine the sweet and salty components, we turned to Chef Glenn Harris from restaurant Jane in New York City. He shared the recipe for one of his signature dishes that's on the menu at Jane until mid-September – "Watermelon & Yellow Tomato Tartare with Baby Arugula and Catapano Goat Cheese Vinaigrette." (Catapano is a soft and creamy, feta-like cheese made with goat's milk from Catapano Dairy Farm in Peconic, N.Y., near Long Island's North Fork.)

From firm and earthy Cabot clothbound cheddar to Consider Bardwell Farm's sweet and creamy Mettowee, Vermont's cheeses run the gamut of flavors and textures. So, in preparation for the Vermont Cheesemaker's Festival, which takes place on July 25, we've put together a list of five must-visit cheesemakers. Since there are dozens of Vermont cheesemakers (exactly 41 are members of the Vermont Cheese Council), we've selected the ones that are the most innovative and worth the journey.

Consider Bardwell Farm, West Pawlet, Vt.
Located in the bucolic hills of the Champlain Valley, near the N.Y. border, this farm, which dates back to the 19th century, has gone through many transformations. It started off as a cheesemaking co-op in 1864 by Consider Stebbins Bardwell. Today it's run by Angela Miller, Russell Glover, Chris Gray and Peter Dixon and boasts some of the state's most distinct cheeses – the oozy washed-rind Dorset with an scent reminiscent of a stinky French Livarot and Manchester with its unforgettable rustic earthy taste. Make sure to call ahead of time to arrange a visit. Note that the farm is open to cheese enthusiasts only on weekends.

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