"cheese course" news and stories

Are raw-milk cheeses healthful? Recent findings of Listeria monocytogenes, the bacteria that causes Listeria, in cheeses from Montesano, Washington's Estrella Family Creamery in Missouri's Morningland Dairy unequivocally suggest the contrary. Both dairies, which were inspected by FDA (Food and Drug Administration) officials within the past few months, are going to have a particularly hard time defending their raw-milk cheeses, especially since it's just the latest raw-milk scare. Just last week, health officials found 25 E. coli O157:H7 infections linked to Bravo Farms' raw-milk Gouda being sold at Costco stores in Colorado.

When it comes to raw-milk, the conflict between cheesemakers and the FDA is not new. Many cheesemakers view the FDA as an organization of government officials with little or no experience on dairies. Sunday, the Pacific Northwest Cheese Project released a series of cheesemakers' reactions to the recent recalls of raw-milk cheese. One of them states, anonymously, of course, "I am concerned about any potential surprise investigations, because the investigators usually don't have any experience with farms at all," the cheesemaker told the Cheese Project. "The ones who recently visited here had never even been on a farm before; not a good thing in my opinion." Apart from revealing the incompetence of the FDA, their anonymous responses indicate that the health risks do not involve raw-milk, on its own.

It's easy to understand why Grana Padano is Italy's most popular (and most consumed) hard cheese. Whether eaten on its own or grated over pasta and salad, its deep golden color, fruity aroma, firm texture loaded with deliciously crunchy amino acid crystals (concentration of calcium lactate) and sweet caramel-like taste make it irresistible.

Grana Padano's rich history is reflected in its complex array of flavors. The cheese dates back over a thousand years, to the 10th century, when Cistercian monks reclaimed the region around the Po River Valley in Northern Italy (often referred to as the "bread basket of Italy"), and, decided to produce a cheese that would stand the test of time. To learn more about this cheese's current production, we spoke to Lou Di Palo, owner of Di Palo's, the legendary Italian specialty food store, located on Grand Street in New York City.

What happens when cheesemakers blend the best of goat's milk and washed-rind cheeses? Imagine the sweet grassiness of a soft-ripened chèvre, like Andante's Acapella, combined with the gaminess and spiciness of a washed-rind cheese, like Sablé de Wissant.

Ziegenhof Leiner's Zigorome is just such a cheese hybrid from Sulzberg, Germany. This washed-rind goat cheese, just 150 g (5.5 oz), is brushed with a brine (a combination of water and salt) during a four-week-long aging process that gives the rind its light orange-like color and sticky touch.

From firm and earthy Cabot clothbound cheddar to Consider Bardwell Farm's sweet and creamy Mettowee, Vermont's cheeses run the gamut of flavors and textures. So, in preparation for the Vermont Cheesemaker's Festival, which takes place on July 25, we've put together a list of five must-visit cheesemakers. Since there are dozens of Vermont cheesemakers (exactly 41 are members of the Vermont Cheese Council), we've selected the ones that are the most innovative and worth the journey.

Consider Bardwell Farm, West Pawlet, Vt.
Located in the bucolic hills of the Champlain Valley, near the N.Y. border, this farm, which dates back to the 19th century, has gone through many transformations. It started off as a cheesemaking co-op in 1864 by Consider Stebbins Bardwell. Today it's run by Angela Miller, Russell Glover, Chris Gray and Peter Dixon and boasts some of the state's most distinct cheeses – the oozy washed-rind Dorset with an scent reminiscent of a stinky French Livarot and Manchester with its unforgettable rustic earthy taste. Make sure to call ahead of time to arrange a visit. Note that the farm is open to cheese enthusiasts only on weekends.

More after the jump...

Before you get the wrong idea, this isn't a blog post about cheese-themed choir pieces sung by nerdy high school students à la TV's 'Glee.' Instead, it's about Acapella, a smooth creamy goat's milk cheese that harmoniously blends a peppery taste from its ash-coated rind with an herbal aroma emanating from its soft cake-like paste. So, what about this cheese from Andante Dairy in Petaluma, Calif. evokes a cappella singing? We spoke with Soyoung Scanlan, owner of Andante Dairy, to find out how this reference to music reflects not just the pure taste of goat's milk, but also the handmade process involved in creating the cheese.