Would you steal this steer? Photo: longhorndave, Flickr

Law enforcement officials are blaming current economic woes for the resurgence of a very old-fashioned crime: cattle rustling.

Cattle farmers across the South are coping with an uptick in livestock theft that they claim could endanger their livelihoods. According to the Alabama Department of Agriculture, the state this year has already surpassed the number of cattle theft incidents recorded in 2008, with more than 200 cows swiped since January.

"They're getting the cattle, taking them and selling them," explains Billy Powell, executive vice president for the Alabama Cattlemen's Association.

Powell believes the rise in cattle crime reflects the desperation of some rural Alabamians. As anyone who's ever wrangled cattle will attest, cows are strong, dumb and feisty, which makes them notoriously difficult to move. There's a reason Hollywood assumed it took guys like John Wayne to get the job done.

"It's a lot easier to steal ATVs and riding lawn mowers," Powell says.

Bill Niman, founder of the brand of humanely raised beef and pork that graces the menus of trendy bistros and gastropubs from San Francisco to Austin to New York, says the standards at the company have declined to the point where he will no longer eat the meat.

The current Niman Ranch owners, who gained control of the company to keep it out of bankrupcy last month, disagree. "We believe that our protocols are stronger, the auditing of the protocols more rigorous, and the current business model is more financially viable," said Niman Ranch CEO Jeff Swain, speaking to the San Francisco Chronicle.

When Niman started Niman Ranch on 11 acres of land in Bolinas, California more than 30 years ago, he implemented practices that were previously unheard of in the meat industry, such as not using growth hormones, using antibiotics only to treat illness, and giving animals free range for grazing. Those practices produced tender, well-marbled beef beloved by Bay Area chefs like Alice Waters. But they were also expensive. The company literally never made a profit.

Now, after fighting with new management over use of antimicrobials and what he felt were inhumane cattle transport policies, Niman has sold his stake in the company. Some say he suffered from classic "founders sydrome" - complete resistance to change, even reasonable change.

"I think idealism can pay," Swain told the Chronicle. "But it has to be couched with practicality."

Alright. That's it.

First we hear that the USDA has recalled 143 million pounds of beef, then that the recall extends as far back as two years. Now this news: a fourth herd of cattle in Minnesota has tested positive for bovine tuberculosis. Maybe I'm just overly sensitive to bad beef now. Though it is unlikely that humans can contract tuberculosis from beef because "any animal showing these signs is withheld from the food supply. In addition, adequate cooking destroys the bacteria. Further, the milk pasteurization process at processing plants destroys any potential bacteria," still, it makes me wonder if I should just swear off red meat for a while.

I'm just going to think about that while I finish the last few bites of my steak.

Yesterday, I mentioned that "white beef" would be served at the UK's most expensive picnic lunch. This raised the question as to what exactly white beef was. It turns out that white beef is meat from British white cattle, cows that are related to ancient, indigenous cattle that lived in the UK. The cows are exceptionally attractive, with snowy white hides and contrasting black points, and are known for their gentle nature and hardiness. Like many rare breeds, the numbers dropped precipitously low for a time, with only 149 cows left in the breed in the 1960's. Since that time, new herds have been established and the numbers are increasing. Some are even being raised in the US.

The beef from these cows is prized not only because the cows are limited in number, but the meat is tasty. It is said to be somewhat leaner than other beef, but with very consistent marbling, which makes the meat juicy when cooked.

The USDA announced this week that it will reduce the number of cattle tested for mad cow disease by 90 percent, the Associated Press reported. Agricultural Secretary Mike Johanns said Thursday that testing one percent of the 35 million cows slaughtered annually in the U.S. is more than what's necessary. The number of cattle tested on a daily basis will now fall from 1,000 to around 110. Current testing costs are approximately $1 million per week, according to the AP. "There is no significant BSE problem in the United States," Johanns said, "and after all of this surveillance, I am able to say there never was."

McDonald's senor global supply chain manager, Gary Johnson, stressed the importance of establishing traceable beef programs worldwide. Consumers want to know where their food is coming from, he said, and consumer trust is of paramount importance to all businesses, especially those in the food industry. The call for action comes in light of the fact that the British beef industry is still recovering from the massive loss of consumer confidence it suffered following a mad cow outbreak in the mid 1990s. It is also, in part, due to the success of the Australian beef industry in implementing a system to track all beef cows back to their farm of origin. Johnson called for future programs to be modeled on the Australian example.

While there are some farms who take it upon themselves to offer traceable beef, many in the cattle industry oppose these measures, largely on the grounds that it would be too expensive to implement and maintain. If  a national or global plan were in place, however, consumers and businesses would rise to meet the price changes. "Any extra expense to introduce traceability today represents an essential investment in the security of the future safety of the food supply, [Johnson] said."

According to an Australian animal behavior scientist, beef cattle use objects in their immediate surroundings to preen. After observing cows in several pastures, Bob Kilgour found that cows groom themselves with their tongues and hooves, but also with trees, branches and fence posts, according to ABC Science Online. Kilgour says that these inanimate objects are being used by the cows as tools. One example included cows using fallen tree branches to "groom around their eyes." This then raises questions of animal rights in feedlot environments. A healthy, well-kept coat may also be a good defense against parasites, Kilgour says. Where one person may view a steer knocking over a feedlot fence post as mindless and destructive, Kilgour feels that discouraging such actions "may be thwarting what is a valuable natural behaviour." A wider acceptance of his theories could mean stronger grounds for complaints by animal rights activists opposed to the current beef industry. Still, I have to wonder where one draws the line between grooming and simply scratching an itch.