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Posts with tag bruni

Bakers eliminate natural trans-fats: NY Times Dining in 60 seconds

Dairy and meat products have small amounts of naturally occurring trans fats in them, but they are exempt from the federal laws that require trans fats to be identified on nutrition labels because those laws are aimed at artificially produced trans fats. Some companies, like Starbucks, want to be able to assure their customers that their products are entirely trans fat free and have required their bakers to switch from butter to trans-free margarine and palm oil. The bakers aren't happy about this, but consumers shouldn't notice a difference in flavor because of careful testing.

New York may be far from Texas and the Carolinas, but you can find some great barbecue in the city. This is good news for the millions of barbecue lovers who don't have too much of a problem finding excellent smoked meats, tender and slow cooked chickens, and piles of pulled pork.

Chodorow isn't the only one upset about his restaurants' reviews. Other restaurants have been known to sue critics for simply giving their opinion on their food.

Frank Bruni eats at Sfoglia and gives it 2 stars.

The TurboChef is one impressive - and expensive - oven.

Mark Bittman, the minimalist, makes a thai-inspired Winter Squash in Coconut Milk.

Harold McGee, the curious cook, makes fried fish with vodka and beer batter.

Chodorow vs. Bruni: the conflict continues

Some seem to think that restaurateur Jeffrey Chodorow's grudge against NY Times restaurant critic Frank Bruni runs deeper than just one bad review. Chodorow has, after all, said that he feels his restaurants have always gotten the short stick from the reviewer. A recent piece on Page Six of the NY Post seems to confirm this, as Chodorow has just announce that Bruni is banned from all of his 29 restaurants.

For those of you wondering how the Chodorow plans to ban someone whose looks are supposed to be a secret, just know that restaurant staffs make it their business to unmask restaurant critics whenever possible, many kitchens will have a wall of critics and other notable people to keep an eye out for. Chodorow's employees have an extra reason to look for Bruni because Jeffrey has offered a free trip for two to the Caribbean to the first person to recognize him. As insurance to make sure he is seen, Chodorow plans to post a photo of Bruni on his personal blog sometime soon.

When restaurateurs fight back: Chodorow vs. Bruni

Restaurateurs have a love-hate relationship with food critics. They love them when they get a good review and hate them when they don't. A lot of seething goes on in the kitchen when the review is bad, but that is usually as far as it gets. Once in a while, however, a restaurant owner will be pushed over the edge, as Jeffrey Chodorow was when he read Frank Bruni's review of his Kobe Club. Chodorow took out a full-page ad (rumored to have cost around $40,000) in this week's NY Times Dining section blasting Bruni ("in crazy-person tiny type") and accusing him of being biased, unqualified and, essentially, of having a personal vendetta against him and/or his restaurants.

The letter was addressed to Pete Wells, who recently came to the NY Times as the editor of the Dining section, possibly in the hopes that Wells would take some sort of action against Bruni. Wells has since said that the Times will take no action and Bruni himself spoke to the NY Post, saying that he has no vendetta against Chodorow. Nor does New York magazine's Adam Platt or The NY Post's Steve Cuozzo - both of whom gave the restaurant less-than-flattering reviews at the same time as Bruni.

[thanks, alanna!]

Italian Spaghetti and Frozen Yogurt, NY Times Dining in sixty seconds

In Kim Severson's mind, her grandmother's "red sauce" recipe, a marinara sauce that stuck with her family through all of her many childhood moves, originated in her grandmother's Italian hometown, where there would undoubtedly be a "single iconic red sauce." After traveling to Italy and tracking down her nearest relatives in that town, she discovered that there was no such sauce because there was no one way to make sauce taste "right" - there was just good sauce.

Frozen yogurt is one of the hottest cold foods around, thanks to a growing interest in yogurt products from consumers and the desire for tasty, lower fat snacks. While some consumer still like the flavor and texture of low fat ice cream, more are drawn to the hint of tartness found in good-quality fro yo. Competition among shop owners is tough, especially for those looking to enter in to the higher end part of the market that Pinkberry (rapidly expanding in LA and NY despite lots of recent criticism) has a large chunk of.

A tribute to the artist/foodie/chef Gordon Matta-Clark will open tomorrow at the Whitney Museum of American Art.

Lamb stew is hearty, but surprisingly bright and sweet, thanks to the addition of apricots, which are complemented by olives and buttered almonds.

Frank Bruni dines at Momofuku Ssam Bar and gives it two stars.

Mark Bittman, the minimalist, makes Babbo's Maple Crema, Vanilla Pudding and Indian Cornmeal Pudding.

Red Velvet Cake and Beta Cooks, NY Times Dining in 60 seconds

Red velvet cake is, for some reason, often considered to be a retro, trashy sort of cake in spite of the fact that it is wildly popular at bakeries these days. The best cakes have a moist and tender crumb, as well as a hint of cocoa. The color can range from Marilyn red to deep mahogany and is typically made with food coloring, although those chefs who are overly concerned with making everything over-the-top natural use beets to color theirs. If the whole cake is just too much for you, you can always try red velvet cupcakes or sandwich cookies.

Beta cook disorder is a condition that arises in chefs when their partner is too dominant in the kitchen, constantly second guessing everything they do and ordering them around. Power struggles, it seems, come out in the kitchen more often than anywhere else, but by consciously working together - with an open dialog - mini dictatorships can be avoided and you'll have just enough hands stirring the pot.

Paul Bocuse, one of the greatest French chefs there is, just celebrated his 80th birthday with a huge, three-day party and a list of A-list chefs both as guests and in the kitchen.

Winter comfort food is even better it you can get it done quickly with no loss of flavor, like Baked Beans with Bacon in 2 hours, instead of 10.

Frank Bruni dines at Pera Mediterranean Brasserie and Dennis Foy, giving each one star.

Mark Bittman, the minimalist, makes stuffed chicken thighs.

Scalping Reservations and Dining Hall Cooking: NY Times Dining in 60 seconds

A business called PrimeTime Tables operates in New York City by getting primo reservations are restaurants and, effectively, scalping them to customers who want them. Restaurateurs call the service "disingenuous and parasitic," noting that it undermines the relationship between restaurant and diner because unlike any other concierge, PTT charges users for their tables. Most are trying to figure out how the service gets their reservations in the first place.

At Yale, students take lessons in dining hall cooking, where they turn simple ingredients from the condiment bar into gourmet treats the likes of which the cafeteria staff isn't going to offer on their own. And they do it in the microwave.

Mark Bittman, the minimalist, talks about broilers - a.k.a. upside down grills - and how to get the most out of yours. He recommends preheating the oven before turning on the broiler and using an ovenproof skillet for cooking, rather than a broiler pan. Recipes include Hard-Shell Clams With Parsley Pesto, Broiled Steak With Pineapple and Onion Salsa and Tortilla Soup.

Frank Bruni analyzes Top Chef and while he mentions Marcel's haircut and Ilan's cutthroat tactics, he spends more time talking about what makes the show work.

It's lemon season and there are many things to make: Spaghetti al Limone, Chicken Breasts with Fennel and Lemon and Lemon Confit Shortbread Tart.

Frank Bruni dines at Gordon Ramsay at the London and gives it two stars.

Pleasing the Chef: NY Times Dining in 60 seconds

Frank Bruni has some very astute observations about the way that restaurants present themselves these days. Chefs are artists and the meal is art. While once a diner could still eat what they wanted, when they wanted to, those decisions are now given to the restaurant and to the chef, each of which has a vision (usually of an expensive tasting menu) and vanity to preserve.

Even with advertising deals, cookbooks and tv shows, chefs are still making most of their money at their restaurants. And it's not as much as you might think, at least not until the chefs have already hit the big time in terms of popularity.

Issa Moskowitz, of the PPK, talks about being vegan, being punk and then shares some recipes: Devil's Food Cupcakes with Fluffy White Filling and Chocolate Icing, Spicy Peanut Stew with Ginger and Tomato and Butternut Squash Rice Paper Rolls.

Winter is a good time for smoking - smoking meats, that is.

Americanized haggis leaves out the offal (most of it, anyway) and is much more popular with consumers as a result.

Frank Bruni dines at The Waverly Inn and Garden and gives it one star.

Mark Bittman, the minimalist, makes Farfalle with Gorgonzola, Arugula and Cherry Tomatoes.

The Year in Food: NY Times Dining in 60 seconds

The politics of food was at the forefront, making people aware of issues like obesity and food safety, as well as introducing (or reintroducing) consumers to the idea that their food comes from farmers and fields, not faceless factories. Organics exploded in popularity and so did animal activism issues, like the ban on foie gras in Chicago. Speaking of bans, the trans fat ban in NYC has sparked nation-wide interest and prompted many politicians to suggest similar legislation.

Home cooking was also hugely popular this year, as evidenced by the growing popularity of food blogs, the fact that most of the popular food programs on TV use words like "home-style," "country" and "everyday," and that the top ten bestselling cookbooks "have a decidedly nonprofessional focus" designed to appeal to home cooks, not would-be chefs.

Frank Bruni's dream dinner takes place at a number of restaurants because he "didn't have the perfect meal in 2006," so he has imagined a restaurant crawl to take him around the city fro course to course.

Eric Asimov names key wine trends, like the growth of Spanish wineries, the popularity of Pinot Noir and the fact that you'll always remember the good, not the bad, in the long run.

Mark Bittman, the minimalist, recommends his rich and cheesy Welsh Rarebit as a perfect late-night snack on a night of overindulgence (in drinks, not food).

Frank Bruni gives Sasabune one star.

The Drinks Issue: NY Times Dining in 60 seconds

If a cocktail sounds really strange, you might want to take a chance, trust the bartender and give it a try before dismissing it out of hand. You might be surprised.

Whiskey is growing in popularity, so you might want to know what kinds of nibbles go well with it.

Long-aged tequilas are in higher demand, too - and they're not meant for making margaritas.

A specialty tonic water can really improve the quality of a drink, adding a subtly sweet flavor to take the edge off.

Tailgaters like to bring out the blenders and serve mixed drinks before the big game.

Drinking during pregnancy - not to mention a number of other food-related pleasures - is definitely frowned upon by others in the US, although not necessarily by doctors or people elsewhere in the world. It seems that there are risks associated with heavy drinking, but to be on the safe side in all situations, there is no standard for "heavy drinking" and is just considered to be a big no-no.

Big beers, usually produced by small brewers, are beers that have an alcohol content of more than 7% - far stronger than the average of 3-5% that is a common standard in most places. Fans feel that a lot more goes into making them than other beers and revere them almost as much as a fine wine.

Frank Bruni dines at Spicy & Tasty and gives it two stars.

Mark Bittman, the minimalist, makes party food: Polpetti, Grilled Chicken Wings, Gougères and Asian Corn Fritters.

Frank Bruni goes to Italy: NY Times Dining in 60 seconds

Frank Bruni returns from Italy, where he has spent time exploring all that Emilia-Romagna and Piedmont have to offer food-wise, eating his way through cheese, offal, pork, breads and sausages. The food is often heavy and rich, but for most food lovers, it sounds like a trip to these two regions could take you near to culinary heaven.

In The White House Chef , chef Walter Scheib III talks about his experiences - and difficulties - working as the head chef in one of the country's most well-known kitchens.

SmartFresh is a preservative that comes in the form of a gas. It can be sprayed on fruits and vegetables to slow ripening and increase shelf-life. Though it does not reduce the flavor in the least, it does decrease the aroma of the fruit for a time after application. It is being using for some fruits, like apples, in the US, but is popular abroad.

In Australia, high school students are learning to make wine.

The new New York Michelin guide is out and Essex House lost its three star rating because it is closing to relocate in January.

Frank Bruni dines at Harry's Steak and Cafe and gives it 1 star.

Mark Bittman, the minimalist, makes ranch, yogurt/blue cheese and carrot miso salad dressings.

Supermarket Shopping: NY Times Dining in 60 seconds

New York supermarkets are grimy and disappointing after a summer of farmer's markets, but you can find some foods that aren't completely worthless: Steel cut Irish oatmeal, Cabot sharp cheddar cheese, Progresso Lentil Soup, Walker's Shortbread, Total Greek Yogurt. Unfortunately, Moskin doesn't share which market she went to, so it may be hard to find all of her picks at home without searching a few places. While you're shopping, you might want to pick up some basics for your pantry, too.

Supermarkets are making changes to hold on to customers that are increasingly shopping elsewhere. They are increasing prepared and specialty food selections, adding new services, offering high-tech gadgets to aid consumers, and vastly increasing the quality and selection of their produce.

The secret to a good basic salad is more oil, less vinegar and lots of salt. If you don't want something quite so basic, try Dandelion, Bacon and Egg Salad, Apple Cranberry and Goat Cheese Salad or Chicken and Parsnip Salad.

Couscous was developed in the middle ages and is still made in much the same way as it was, not to mention that it is a staple of many diets

Tis the season for making soup with dumplings, preferably ones that use Matzoh.

Fran Bruni dines at Freemans and gives it a "satisfactory".

Mark Bittman, the minimalist, makes Mongolian stir-fried lamb.

Tea and Espresso: NY Times Dining in 60 seconds

After 100 years of tea bags filled with a decreasing quality of leaf, tea makers are seeing an upsurge in sales when they decide to upgrade the quality of their product. Premium teas were once sold only loose-leaf, but even small producers are bagging their wares - and with great success. Lipton, one of the largest tea producers, is putting long-leaf teas into a new line of bags, too.

Apparently, knowing how to make an espresso, or to do latte art, is now worthy of an "artisanal" tag, though they baristas aren't always the ones roasting the beans themselves and the label is usually about the production process, not the packaging.

Ferran Adria likes to "do new things with old concepts" and, after starting almost by accident at the age of 21, he has made El Bulli one of the most renowned restaurants in the world and has cemented his reputation as a master of food, magic and science.

Kung fu tea is tea that strives for perfection and requires the brewer (and server) to have an exceptional knowledge of brewing times, the quantity and type of leaf and temperatures. But it also requires someone who really knows tea to appreciate it.

Frank Bruni dines at Trestle on Tenth and gives it one star.

Mark Bittman, the minimalist, grills some chicken.

Blue Ribbon Cooking: NY Times Dining in 60 seconds

Fairground food competitions are time-honored traditions and exhibitions of home cooking at its finest, but the competitions are being revamped as modern tastes and trends show up to cook. Barbecue is a staple, as are pies, but biscotti and bagels are making an appearance. To increase their popularity even further, some fairs are opening men-only divisions and hosting "Iron-Chef"-style events. They may not be your grandmother's cooking competitions, but they're just as enjoyable.

Chef Zak Pelaccio mixes market-fresh fruits and veggies with offal, combining the peasant food movement of Mario Batali with the local and seasonal produce trend at 5 Ninth and Fatty Crab in NYC.

The NY Times examines the site chow.com and if its chowhound connection will be able to help it plant roots in the foodie community.

Here's the Times' take on ice cream machines (and here's ours).

Frank Bruni dines at Mercer Kitchen, giving it one star.

Mark Bittman, the minimalist, makes a tasty sounding mexican un-pizza, called a tlayuda.

Getting out of the city, briefly: NY Times Dining in 60 seconds

The New York Times dining section hit the road this week, though they didn't stray too far from their home base. Out on the west coast, a road trip tends to involve at least several hundred miles and more than a day of driving - not a mere two hours. A trek from New York to New Jersey or Connecticut just doesn't have the same impact (nor does Long Island), but at least they tracked down some good eats:

More parents are turning to custom-made and/or organic baby food over the jarred varieties that grace store shelves, even if they have to get it FedExed to them while traveling.

Discovering the taste of tomatoes at a tasting designed to pinpoint their unique flavors, much like a wine tasting.

Frank Bruni ate at Blue Hill and gave it 3 stars.

Mark Bittman, the minimalist, makes grilled tuna burgers.

Frank Bruni does fast food

I mentioned this story briefly in the roundup of this week's NY Times dining section, but didn't elaborate there because it really deserves its own post. Frank Bruni, the food critic known for his love of the finer foods in life, hit the road in a rented Ford Taurus and ate his way through 42 fast food restaurants, mostly in the southern half of the country. His goal was to find out the best fast food chains in the country, "from familiar national chains, relatively unfamiliar regional chains and tiny local chains [he] had never encountered." He stopped in at places like McDonald's, Dairy Queen, Chick-fil-a and Whataburger, eating burgers, fries andother fried foods in pursuit of his goal.

 

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