"brown" news and stories

As entertaining as Alton Brown is, I can't help but think of him as more of a cook than a baker. The reason for this is that he likes to play with science and although baking is certainly scientific, the methodology is not what is going to take your baking to the next level. Technique is important, but flavor may be more so.

That said, there is plenty of flavor to be found in AB's baking book, I'm Just Here for More Food: Food x Mixing + Heat = Baking, just not the extensive range of old and new combinations that you might find in a book from a professional pastry chef - and if you're not looking to emulate cutting-edge, five-star at home, you shouldn't have any problems here. Alton is precise, thorough and very accessible, due to a generous use of entertaining illustrations sprinkled throughout the text. His recipes and methodology are well explained and will provide the reader with a solid base of knowledge of the hows and whys of baking. On top of that, they always turn out good results (barring technical difficulties, of course), so you have a built-in way to reward yourself after learning a new lesson. Recipes include topics from scones and cakes to custards and candies.

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Oxidation is essentially the process by which something starts to break down once it has been exposed to air, as some metals - notably iron and copper - will rust when left untended. When a cut fruit, such as an avocado, banana or apple is exposed to air, its flesh also begins oxidize, discoloring and turning to an unappetizing shade of brown. The trick to keep avocados, guacamole and any other dip with the buttery, green fruit from turning brown is to add citric acid to it.

Citric acid is a weak, naturally occuiring acid that is found in many fruits and vegetables, though its highest concentration is in lemons and limes, which are up to 8% citric acid. In addition to imparting a slightly sour taste to citrus fruits, it is a strong antioxidant. Adding just a teaspoon or two of the acid to a mashed avocado, or brushing a bit on the surface of an apple, will keep the fruit looking as though it were just cut. A splash of lemon or lime juice in your guacamole will keep it green and tempting from the moment it is made, until there isn't enough left to dip a chip.

I'm a firm believer in the beauty of the braise. Not familiar? A braise is any time you first brown your ingredients in hot oil (or, sauté), and then add liquid to finish the cooking. You can finish your braise on the stovetop, in the oven, or in a slow cooker - but most braises are finished in the same place they were started. And braises are often the definition of s.l.o.w. slow.

Many slow cooker recipes call for a good browning of the meats and/or veggies first, but most of them hasten to mention that the browning could be skipped. I think this is close to vital (and Sarah Gim mentions that it does, after all, speed up the cooking process). What's your take: to brown, or not to brown.

[Photo Sarah Gilbert]