A vintner, or perhaps a devoted wine connoisseur, would recognize "Asprinio" as a type of white Italian grape that is primarily used in sparkling wines, although it is a fairly obscure type of grape. It you're not a member of this category, you probably recognize it as the last name of Stephen Asprinio, one of the members of the cast of the first season of Top Chef. He was one of the more colorful participants in the show, not only because of his standout designer suits, but because of his confidence and charm. Stephen was, even when he first entered the public eye, a man with a plan. He didn't win the show, but that didn't stop him from going forward with his plan to change the face of dining in America by becoming a restaurateur.
I had a chance to sit down with Stephen this week to find out exactly what he has been up to since the show ended and what he is planning for the future. Currently, he has two projects approaching completion, one on each coast. The first is called Tastevin and it is a concept wine boutique aimed at 20-somethings who are increasingly developing a taste for wines, but are put off from seeking out high-quality ones by the old fashioned, pretentious way wine is usually presented. Corks, dusty bottles and wooden crates are not selling points to the under-30 crowd. Stephen is doing away with all the stuffy formality of wine buying and keeping his venture sexy and ultra-modern, with Philippe Starck furniture and beautiful displays of the bottles, appealing to his age group by improving the presentation and accessibility of one of his favorite things: wine.
With the growing popularity of social networking websites, such as MySpace, it is not very surprising to hear that people are looking to extend the concept into other spaces. Unfortunately, "other spaces" all tend to be in the real world, as opposed to the digital one, where people are likely to be interacting and networking already. One new restaurant in Los Angeles thinks that they have come up with a good balance of real and digital interactions - whether it will be a success remains to be seen.
At uWink Bistro, the customers will have computer touch screens at their tables, from which they can order food without the need for a waiter/waitress. Once their order has been placed, they can play games on the screen or challenge other tables to tournaments. Diners will be sitting in the restaurant, physically with other people, but will virtually interact with the others around them.
It looks like Mario Batali is giving up on
one of his New York eateries, Bistro du Vent, only 15 months after its opening. The Bistro is located on 9th St.
in midtown Manhattan. It received reviews ranging from "not bad" to "deeply satisfying" and
Frank Bruni gave it two
stars, so the food isn't what is causing the sale. Its downfall was probably helped by the scandal that occurred
last year, in which "four employees - including a chef - were caught on [security] videotape in a steamy
after-hours sex romp" in the restaurant. Though the employees were subsequently fired, it's not the sort of thing
that necessarily enhances a restaurant's reputation. Bistro du Vent has 12 years left on the lease and a
$13,500 monthly rent.
If you are going to travel down the organic food road, why not embrace it whole hog and
order your drinks
organic as well? In most areas such commitment to eating and drinking clean is not an option, but in several New York
eateries, organic drinks are moving into the mainstream.
The whole concept of organic alcohol might seem a bit off, after all the idea behind alcohol is to create a
concoction that might not be pure in its intentions -albeit an often tasty and comforting one. But the movement behind
bringing alcohol into the organic realm involves using ingredients and spirits distilled from grains, fruit or
sugarcane that have been certified organic. One restaurant that is on the forefront of the clean drink movement is
Counter, an East Village vegetarian-slash-vegan bistro. The eatery has always served organic food and when the
restaurant decided to start serving liquor the logical choice was to pursue organic spirits as well.
I picked up my lid about 30 minutes ago and the mixture hadn't even started bubbling yet. It was
just... resting, warmly. I turned up the heat and now it's actually simmering. I'm headed out to get those oil-cured
olives! I think I'm going to get some couscous as a side dish, that seems appropriate somehow. I'll post a wrap-up when
the simmering finally concludes.
I pick up my wide bowl and start to pour in the wine and vegetables that
marinated together with the beef for the last 24 hours. Of course, I somehow start pouring a bit before I make
it to the pan. I'm not graceful even on my best of days. I have to use four or five paper towels to sop up the
mess.
It's just as well, I decide, because all the wine might not have fit in my pan. That's a lot of beef,
carrots, onions and wine. I set the heat to medium-low and put my big cast-iron lid on cockeyed. The smell of wine
quickly permeates my home, mixing with the smell of browned beef. It's a bit overpowering, and makes me wonder how
those French bistro chefs make it through their days without being a bit tipsy from the aroma alone. It's supposed to
simmer for two hours? It's going to be a late dinner. Next time I'm starting a lot earlier.
It takes me a long time to brown all the beef, even in my huge cast-iron pan. I need three batches and
each one takes me 10 or 12 minutes to get browned on all sides. My final batch gets pretty brown because my son begs me
to play ball with him in his room. No matter, it will all even out in the end.
I start to sprinkle in my herbs;
thyme and bay leaves; and can't find the thyme, so just throw in a handful of Italian seasoning that includes basil,
thyme and marjoram, hoping that the basil flavor will just cook away (thyme and rosemary are the rare spicese that
actually hold up to long cooking times, I've learned). I add the bay and then get ready to toss in the
olives.
Uh-oh. I've somehow misread the recipe. Instead of buying oil-cured olives, I bought Nicoise olives,
decidedly different (but, umm, still French? does that count?). I decide to put in about a half-cup and pick up some
oil-cured olives while my stew is simmering.
Wow. Those beef chunks have taken on a decidedly
wine-colored hue after resting all day in their French table wine marinade. Some of them are purple-brown instead of
red. I test my pan to make sure it's hot by letting a few drops of marinade splatter in the pan. I get a satisfying
sputter from the hot oil, so I add in several pieces of beef, taking care not to crowd them.
I opened my fridge and there it was! My well-marinated
beef. All that I have to do now is throw it in a pot and cook it. Right? Whoops. There's a bunch to do today.
First, I need to let it come to room temperature. Given the fact that my three-year-old had to visit the doctor (ear
infection), I really don't have time. So I'm going to skip that step and just give the meat as much "rest" as
the time it takes to drain.
I set my beef chunks in a colander
to drain, reserving the marinade ingredients in their big bowl, while I heated up my very favorite pan: a 12-inch
cast-iron skillet. The instructions say to use two tablespoons of olive oil, and I just let the bottle do a few glugs
until it seems as if my saucepan bottom is well-covered.