"belgian beer" news and stories

Suds. Brewski. Barley pop. There are dozens of synonyms for beer, but I'll bet you a buck you've never heard this 16th-century Flemish phrase: De Dochter Van De Korenaar, translated into English as "the daughter of the corn ear."

It's not a phrase consigned to a dusty history book. Instead, it's the moniker for one of Belgium's newest, smallest and best breweries. In 2007, brewmaster and owner Ronald Mengerink (who has brewed since he was a teenager) opened the taps at De Dochter and soon garnered fans of his genre-bending brews.

"With every beer he creates, he's looking to invent something new," says Brian Ewing, owner of importer 12 Percent. "His beers tend to be more of hybrids -- things that blur the lines between multiple styles."

For starters, Noblesse is a 5.5 percent ABV Belgian pale ale that drinks as crisp and desert-dry as a saison, with citric flavors, slightly sour nose and heady bitterness. Courage is a potent wheat ale (8 percent ABV) with flavors recalling star anise or perhaps fennel. The Embrasse strong ale (9 percent ABV) earns its complex notes of coffee, cocoa, toffee and a touch of smoke from a blend of eight malts.

It was a furnace-like New York afternoon, and I craved a beer in the worst way. I sludged into Brooklyn bar d.b.a. and scanned the beer list for a thirst-slaker. My eyes lit up like a pinball machine: Lodged amid the pilsners and pales ales was De Ranke XX Bitter, the self-proclaimed "hoppiest beer in Belgium."

"The hoppiest beer in Belgium?" you ask, incredulous. "Is that like the finest fish tacos in North Dakota?" Not at all. While Belgium may be known for Dubbels and Tripels, De Ranke has hit a home run with its XX Bitter. It's the brainstorm of two buddies, Nino Bacelle and Guido Devos, slavishly devoted to the powers of hops flowers and high-quality ingredients.

For a while there, Alec Stefansky was pretty crazy about Thai cooking. He favored the fragrant flavors of kaffir lime leaves, lemongrass and coriander, a spice that Belgian brewers often favored. That got Stefansky thinking: If coriander (aka cilantro) was such a fine match, what would happen if he crafted a beer that incorporated Thai cuisine's other classic flavors?

Stefansky, the co-founder of Santa Cruz, California's all-organic Uncommon Brewers, hit the brew kettle hard. Very hard.

Come sunny days, I take my cues from southern-Belgium's field hands. During the summer's harvest season, they drink the farmers' saisons (French for season). These are tart, refreshing, low-alcohol beers that served as potable water. The goal is hydration, not inebriation. But a little buzz never hurts to help harvest the crops faster.

Like the field hands, I've learned to love saisons, like the snappy version from Brasserie Dupont, the style's Belgian king. But American takes are pretty terrific too, including Ommegang Hennepin, Lost Abbey Red Barn Ale and my current favorite, which hails from Pretty Things Beer & Ale Project.

This Massachusetts outfit is run by veteran brewer Dann Paquette, who, instead of opening his own bricks-and-mortar brewery, rents space at an area operation. Untethered to loan payments, he's able to explore whatever catches his fancy. One week, he'll do a hopped-up Belgian Tripel; the next, a vintage British mild that clocks nearly 10 percent ABV. Through all the experimentation, Paquette's flagship remains the unfiltered Jack D'Or saison.

With winter on its way out the door, it's time for me to start phasing out barley wines, stouts and other burly beers in lieu of the latest crop of lighter, easier-drinking brews. Here are my 10 picks for toasting the coming spring.

Firestone Walker Solace:
This April marks the first time that the Paso Robles, California, brewery has bottled its spring seasonal. It's worth the wait: The unfiltered Solace combines elements of the German hefeweizen and Belgian saison, creating a tangy refreshment with hints of banana.

Ithaca Ground Break Saison:
Hailing from upstate New York, the hazy, farmhouse-style ale drinks bright and crisp, packing heaps of fruity notes and a spicy-yeast profile. Don't worry: It's not as barnyard-tasting as its Belgian counterparts.