Like many exotic delicacies, bánh mì hold a mysterious place in my mind that drives me to distraction, leading me to imagine such strange, dangerous missions as finding an all-night Vietnamese gangster deli. I've since given up that pipe dream, but I still harbor some obsessions about Vietnamese sandwiches. My longstanding theory that restaurants are incapable of creating good bánh mì was recently disproved when I enjoyed a spectacular one at Zak Pelaccio's restaurant 5 Ninth in Manhattan's meatpacking district. More on that gustatory delight later, first some background.
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