"Vermont Cheese" news and stories

From firm and earthy Cabot clothbound cheddar to Consider Bardwell Farm's sweet and creamy Mettowee, Vermont's cheeses run the gamut of flavors and textures. So, in preparation for the Vermont Cheesemaker's Festival, which takes place on July 25, we've put together a list of five must-visit cheesemakers. Since there are dozens of Vermont cheesemakers (exactly 41 are members of the Vermont Cheese Council), we've selected the ones that are the most innovative and worth the journey.

Consider Bardwell Farm, West Pawlet, Vt.
Located in the bucolic hills of the Champlain Valley, near the N.Y. border, this farm, which dates back to the 19th century, has gone through many transformations. It started off as a cheesemaking co-op in 1864 by Consider Stebbins Bardwell. Today it's run by Angela Miller, Russell Glover, Chris Gray and Peter Dixon and boasts some of the state's most distinct cheeses – the oozy washed-rind Dorset with an scent reminiscent of a stinky French Livarot and Manchester with its unforgettable rustic earthy taste. Make sure to call ahead of time to arrange a visit. Note that the farm is open to cheese enthusiasts only on weekends.

More after the jump...

Photo: Cabot Creamery

It's no secret that Vermont is just as much a "cheese state" as Wisconsin. We all know about Vermont cheddars, in particular the wax-covered logs from Cabot Creamery and those from Grafton Village Cheese. But, over the past couple of months, smaller and more artisanal Vermont dairies, including Lazy Lady Farm and Willow Hill Farm, have been receiving attention from everyone from the New York Times Magazine to big names in food like Martha Stewart. What has prompted these cheesemakers to receive such positive media attention and to make it big in the marketplace? Cabot Clothbound Cheddar, the Che Guevara of cheeses.

After speaking to Mateo Kehler, co-owner of Jasper Hill Farm in Greensboro, Vt., we discovered that the artisanal Cabot Clothbound Cheddar is not only unique because of its mouthwatering, nutty, caramel-like taste, but also because of its pivotal role in allowing smaller Vermont cheese producers to blossom. The latter is responsible for the growth of Mateo's aging facility, the Cellars at Jasper Hill, where the cheddar is aged for approximately 10 months. "The cheese supplies us with the necessary cash flow to be able to financially support smaller dairies," says Kehler. He refers to the cheese as an "economic engine" in the Vermont cheese scene. Back in 2005, when Kehler took over the sales of Cabot Clothbound Cheddar, he sold 7,000 pounds of the cheese in just one week!

When it comes to American cheese, shapes and sizes can be deceiving. Smaller cheeses that come in the shape of a pyramid or disc (think Valençay or Selles-sur-Cher) are often associated with goat's milk cheeses. However, there are several American cheesemakers, like Cowgirl Creamery, that are defying these expectations by producing an array of cow's milk cheeses, including Inverness, in the shape and size of French chèvres.

Sarabande, a raw cow's milk cheese from Dancing Cow Farm in Vermont, is an astonishing example of this innovation. In a pyramid shape reminiscent of a Valençay, it shares more similarities with Taleggio and Langres.

"We have low production pastured cows that don't give a lot of milk, say 30 pounds a day average, but they give a very rich, flavorful milk," says Karen Getz, who co-owns Dancing Cow Farm with her husband, Steve. "We make cheese every day from warm, straight out of the cow milk [...], because milk is very fragile and starting with fresh milk each day allows the flavors of the pastures to shine."

Coupole. Photo: Artisanal.

Unlike some goat's milk cheeses that have a pronounced grassy tang (that for some is unpleasant), Coupole has a mild vegetal taste that is sure to delight all palates. The chewy, dense, creamy texture of Coupole slowly dissolves on the back of the tongue, giving way to a subtle, sweet, yeasty flavor.

In fact, those interested in a beginner's goat cheese should look no further. Coupole is the perfect cheese to educate the less experienced palate on the grassy acidity of goat's milk. And, those who simply appreciate a well-made cheese will certainly be impressed by the well-balanced taste reminiscent of a "chicken-y risotto," according to Liz Thorpe, author of "The Cheese Chronicles" and vice president of Murray's.

Its taste may be atypically mild compared to other delicious goat's milk cheeses, like the ash-coated log from Pipe Dreams Farm, but its size and shape are definitely characteristic of a chèvre, such as Crottin de Chavignol -- a cylindrical dome. Indeed, Coupole's name translates from French to "cupola" or "dome."

Continue reading Coupole - Cheese Course.

Though we've been covering goat's milk cheeses for the past couple of weeks, today I'd like to concentrate on an American blue raw cow's milk cheese from northern Vermont called Boucher Blue.

This sweet and creamy fromage has an earthy flavor reminiscent of the famous French Fourme d'Ambert. What sets it slightly apart is a unique taste of chestnuts and vanilla and a long finish on the palate. While Boucher Blue is certainly tasty eaten plain, it would also make a great addition to a fresh spring salad, such as one with watercress, prosciutto and hazelnuts.

Boucher Blue is handmade by brothers Daniel and Denis of the renowned Québecois Boucher family, whose 1,000 acre farm boasts 120 Holstein and French Normandy cows. The brothers have deep roots in the region: Their family has been cultivating land for nearly 400 years. Long ago they tilled the land by the Lake Champlain and St. Lawrence River valleys in what was once New France (now Quebec). Their ancestor Pierre Boucher was celebrated after the French and Indian War for making peace with the Iroquois.

Fnd their cheese at farmer's markets such as the Burlington Farmers' Market or purchase it from Saxelby Cheesemongers here in New York.