Food writer Regina Schrambling says she's finally found a phenomenon even more annoying than Rachel "Yummo" Ray: Precocious kiddie foodies.
Writing in Slate, Schrambling points to some of her main offenders: New York Times' fawning coverage of 12-year-old "restaurant critic" David Fishman, the Times' new "Cooking With Dexter" feature written by food editor Pete Wells about his kitchen exploits with his 4-year-old son, and NPR's 5-year-old Chef Julian, the world's "youngest celebrity chef." These kids are not just being cooed at for their cuteness, she says, they're actually being held up as inspiration for adult chefs.
Schrambling claims that A) Kitchens are not nurseries - they're dangerous places filled with knives and boiling oil - so we encourage kids to cook only at the peril of their forearms and fingertips, B) Kids have less-developed taste buds, naturally craving high levels of salty and sweet, and therefore are less likely to come up with anything truly remarkable to adult palates, and C) The younger you are, the smaller your food memory bank, so a 5-year-old is probably not going to know a "good" burger from a "bad" burger.
"On a larger scale, the trend emphasizes the worst of the food frenzy today: the celebration of celebrity and novelty over authenticity and seriousness," Schrambling writes. "...Today chefs barely out of high school are competing on reality cooking shows, and the bar keeps being lowered, with Internet exposure for every little Thomas Keller."
I find over-precocious kids annoying in general, and I think that any parent who holds up little Ava or Aidan as a paragon of culinary sophistication is totally silly. At the same time, I think it's great for kids to get in the kitchen and learn a thing or two about food. Better than sitting in front of the X-Box eating Cakesters (I'm sure Schrambling would agree). And if having a few kiddie chefs on TV helps encourage a greater respect for food, that's great. Though I'm unlikely to be trying out any of their recipes any time soon.
You might think that a goofy internet meme about a football-sized lump of bacon might be worth a few blog posts, maybe a newspaper article about all the blog posts, then a swift plunge into the cold outer darkness where D-list reality TV contestants from 1998 and the band that wrote "Turning Japanese" live in eternity.
Hundreds of thousands of dollars. For the Bacon Explosion. Excuse me, I'll be in the kitchen baking a wedding cake with house-cured lardo icing and candied pancetta roses for my upcoming cookbook "Say it With Pork: 101 All-Pig Recipes for Your Special Day."
Sodexo, a company that provides food services to more than 600 college campuses in the U.S. and Canada, has just released some of their long-term data monitoring taste preferences over the decades. Check out the list of students' favorite dining hall foods from this year, compared with the list from 1989. The results are pretty interesting.
Favorite foods in 2009:
1. Locally-grown fruits and veggies 2. Crispy garlic-ginger chicken wings 3. Mac 'n five cheeses 4. Vietnamese Pho 5. Green tea and pomegranate smoothies 6. Crab cake sliders 7. Mini samosas 8. Tilapia Veracruz 9. Goat cheese salad 10. Chicken Molé
Favorite foods in 1989:
1. Fruit and cottage cheese plate 2. Chicken nuggets 3. Turkey Tetrazini 4. Chicken Chop Suey 5. Egg, bacon and cheese English muffin 6. Half sandwich and cup of soup 7. Taco bar 8. Spanish beef and rice 9. Vegetarian bean chili 10. Algerian lamb stew
The "fruit and cottage cheese plate" strikes me as particularly '80s (this was the decade of aerobics and leg warmers, after all), and the "chicken chop suey" is as retro as it gets.
For those of you who got to partake in the delights of college dining hall fare, please spill - what were your favorite dishes?
Despite the economic downturn, the kosher food market is soaring, reports the LA Times. And it's not because the Jewish community is growing, but because non-Jews increasingly view kosher food as a higher-quality product, marketers say. Sales of certified kosher foods have risen 64 percent in the past five years, earning a total of $12.5 billion in 2008. Some 28 percent of new food and dairy products launched in the U.S. last year were certified kosher. Kosher foods must confirm to Jewish laws dictating methods of slaughter and prohibitions against mixing certain foods, like meat and milk, and must be approved by a rabbi. Thus kosher food factories may have more stringent manufacturing regulations than non-kosher factories. "Kosher food has gained the reputation of being more carefully produced and thoroughly inspected than non-kosher food," says Marcia Mogelonsky, an analyst at the market research firm Mintel, which tracks food trends. The kosher meat industry, though, has not been without its share of scandal - Agriprocessors Inc., the country's larget kosher meatpacking company, was exposed last year for having illegal and unsanitary conditions in its Iowa facility.
Do you look for the kosher label when you buy food?
One of the best gastronomic experiences is the gooey rich creaminess of caramel slowly melting on one's palate. Over the past few years, we have seen an increasing number of products, such as Poco Dolce's burnt caramel toffee, adding salt into the caramel equation. A recent New York Times article explains how this extraordinarily sweet and savory combo went from elite chichi Parisian pastry shops to the American mass-market (stores such as Wal-Mart) and the soon-to-be Obama White House.
The article suggests that the financial success of this exquisite pair is due to a fortunate profitable trend cycle. Parisian pastry chefs initiated American chefs' obsession with the caramel-sea salt blend. Then, it ended up in specialty food magazines and food shows. Soon enough, chain restaurants, like the Cheesecake Factory, began selling them. Finally, Wal-Mart picked up on the trend. Of course, it would not have caught on so quickly if it were not for Americans' long-established taste for salty mixed with sweet, a flavor picked up gracias to dulce de luche from South America and Mexico.
As fellow blog Salt News states, the NY Times focuses on the financial and cultural success of the caramel-salt mix without ever delving into the gastronomic sensations it elicits. The title of the article, "How Caramel Developed a Taste for Salt," is misleading since there is never any substantial information explaining how this caramel concoction developed in small villages in the region of Brittany in France. I'm left wondering whether or not caramel indeed activates a desire for salt. Instead, the article gets carried away with Obama's love for salty caramel delights as though it would be hard to imagine. Could you blame him?
I must have read half a dozen articles in the past year which contained some sneery line about the women on Sex and the City bus tours of NYC standing outside Magnolia Bakery trying out Carrie Bradshaw's favorite cupcakes. High-end cupcakes were awesome a few years ago, the message goes, but now they're becoming a little....déclassé.
And now, a wave of imitators is spreading across the city; the Crumbs franchise is planning to open 40 shops in the next year. This leaves some to wonder whether cupcakes are the new Krispy Kreme - a beloved, slightly kitschy dessert raised to sugary highs by the media only to become overexposed and fall as flat as a punctured souffle.
Apparently there are already signs of a "cupcake backlash." Joel Stein, writing in Time, says cupcakes are "fake happiness, wrought in Wonka unfood colors. They appeal to the same unadventurous instincts that drive adults to read Harry Potter and watch Finding Nemo without a kid in the room."
I disagree. Taking something as humble as the cupcake and transforming it from cloying pink nastiness to something much more sophisticated and sublime seems to be part of the larger, positive foodie movement of reclaiming and elevating ordinary American foodstuffs - red velvet cake, mac and cheese, tuna noodle casserole.
I'm not married, so I spend a lot of time thinking about my wedding cake-to-be. I often thumb through Martha's book on wedding cakes on the floor of Barnes & Noble, and I can't pass a window full of them without gazing longingly. They're just so beautiful.
In all of this fantasizing, it's never occurred to me to think about having a cake made out of something other than cake. Like, for example, cheese. But apparently cheese cakes are becoming trendy in countries like New Zealand -- layers and layers of gorgeous, decorated cheese. Has anyone ever actually witnessed or tasted one of these? Would you consider having one?
On his blog, Notes from the Food World, Michael Ruhlman has asked his readers to identify what they believe are the next big American food trends. He's gotten a huge number of responses, with people saying everything from quinoa (I definitely agree with that) to animal genitalia (I'm not quite sure how I feel about this).
It wasn't too surprising that a number of responses had something to do with locally-grown produce or seasonal products. A bunch also mentioned molecular gastronomy -- but I wonder if that's actually on its way out, rather than in. And I was pleased to see mentions of Sous-vide and infused liquors, which tell me that I exist at least somewhat in the loop (phew). Check out the discussion here on his blog, or just let us know what you think!
Will Spanish avant-garde cuisine, as epitomized by the creations of legendary El Bulli chef Ferran Adrià, stand the test of time? Lisa Abend ponders spherified mango "caviar" and Parmesan "air" in Slate. Some critics criticize the reliance on form over substance, Abend writes, and feel that intellectually-driven, techno-heavy cuisine has gone as far as it's going to go.
According to a trend piece in the Fashion & Styles section of today's New York Times, an increasing number of young people (the word "hipster" is not used, but certainly implied) are ditching Williamsburg for the farming life, raising free range chickens and organic spinach on rural farms.
"Steeped in years of talk around college campuses and in stylish urban enclaves about the evils of factory farms," twenty- and thirty-something urbanites are getting some real dirt on their trendy Carhartts, the article says.
I guess this doesn't seem particularly new to me. Coming from the more rural environs of Chapel Hill, NC, hip young people working on organic farms is nothing new - my 22-year-old brother, for example, used to work part time in a nightclub and part time on a humane, hormone-free hog farm, and delighted in the fact that he sometimes got paid in pork shoulder. Plus, how many Baby Boomers don't have a story about working on an organic farm in the 1960s?
Miller Brewing Company has introduced a line of craft beers under the tagline, "Craft Beer, Done Lite." The line features three beers: Amber, Wheat, and Blonde Ale -- each with fewer calories and carbohydrates than regular beer (110 calories, 6.2 carbs per 12 oz). Though the beer is only available in a few test markets, it's already met some harsh critics.
Joe Sixpack at the Philadelphia Daily News called the trio "the Kenny G of beers," and likened the wheat variety to a Sprite. According to Miller's press release (which you can see here at Beer Advocate), wheat "offers especially appealing flavor dimensions, with a subtle citrus note that kicks in during the finish." Over at Lagerheads, they're giving the trio mixed reviews. And in Baltimore -- one of the test markets -- Baltimore Sun Columnist Ron Casper is not infatuated with any of the three.
Consensus seems to be that it's too early to say whether Miller's attempt to merge the trends of lite and craft beer will ultimately succeed, so I'd love to hear your opinions. Has anyone tried the stuff? Give those of us in non-test cities a taste of what's out there!
Did you catch the guy eating toasted cicadas on The Colbert Report last night? David Gracer, a Rhode Island writing teacher, is on a quest to convince chefs to cook with insects, claiming that bugs offer more edible protein per pound than beef cattle.
Lots of cultures eat insects. I've enjoyed tiny grasshoppers, known as chapulines, in Oaxaca, Mexico. Slathered in guacamole and rolled in a tortilla, they were salty and undistinguished-tasting. Toasted and tossed with salt and chili powder, they were like corn nuts with legs. Cicadas, earthworms, crickets - bring 'em on.
Colbert was not convinced though. "I might ask one of my writers to eat a bug," he said. "Let me check their contract."
Remember when everyone went crazy over soy? Products from breakfast cereal to cookies touted their "soy isoflavone" content, credited with protecting against heart disease. Now a number of studies show that soy consumption has no affect on cardiovascular health and people are fretting that it may even increase the risk of some cancers.
The jury is still waaay out on just how specific foods affect the body.
So I rolled my eyes a bit reading this article in the New York Times about California restaurants claiming to serve immunity boosting foods.
Crustacean, a Vietnamese restaurant in Beverly Hills, puts a special icon next to menu items it claims boost immunity. Its Buddha roll, made with shiitake mushrooms which contains iron and Vitamin C, gets an icon, as does its lemongrass soup (lemongrass has folate, zinc and iron).
Sounds like a good way to sell more Buddha rolls. And to make a dinner out a little more like a trip to the doctor's office. I'll stick to my reasonably balanced diet (with the occasional unreasonable quantity of ice cream or pork barbecue) and pop a vitamin pill now and then for good measure.
What do you think? Any foods you believe boost your immune system?
Sushi has become so popular in the U.S. in the last few years that most people have at least some idea what nori seaweed is. It's that lovely green wrapper encasing your favorite maki rolls. For most Americans, this is the only place to use the delicate seaweed sheets. However, a group of chefs are creating a movement to use nori in a variety of new and different ways.
According to an article in this week's Dining Out section of the New York Times, a substantial number of chefs are thinking way outside the box when it comes to using nori. From an accent ingredient (nori stirred into black truffle risotto) to the main flavor (nori ice cream "sushi"), the seaweed sheets are appearing in more and more menus. Though low grade nori is generally used for sushi, high grade sheets are available and are generally preferred for these high end uses.
I must admit, I was a bit taken aback when I first read the article. But the more I thought about it the more intrigued I became. I always like to try new things and there are some pretty interesting things happening with nori seaweed out there today. So in the words of Chef Yasuda of Sushi Yasuda, "Please, eat".
According to a study that our friends over at Green Daily unearthed, it is now officially cool to eat organic. That poll showed that the number of people buying organic is going up and that 79% of people believe that buying organic food is better for the environment. Ninety-eight percent of frequent organic food buyers believe that it also tastes better than conventional foods.
The study also broke down which groups of people are doing the organic buying and discovered that they are either mostly liberal, mostly college graduates and are frequently both. These results make me blush a little, as I fall smack dab into this demographic and I do my best to buy organic foods whenever possible. Who knew I was so predictable?
Food writer Regina Schrambling says she's finally found a phenomenon even more annoying than Rachel "Yummo" Ray: Precocious kiddie foodies. 
Despite the economic downturn, the kosher food market is soaring
I'm not married, so I spend a lot of time thinking about my wedding cake-to-be. I often thumb through 
On his blog, 
Miller Brewing Company has introduced a line of craft beers under the tagline, "Craft Beer, Done Lite." The line features three beers: Amber, Wheat, and Blonde Ale -- each with fewer calories and carbohydrates than regular beer (110 calories, 6.2 carbs per 12 oz). Though the beer is only available in a few test markets, it's already met some harsh critics. 
Sushi 
According to a study that 
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