This week, the New York Times Magazine's The Way We Eat column is devoted various types of syrup-soaked semolina cakes and pastries. In Macedonia, these desserts are known collectively as siropiasta. Revani and samali, both made with semolina and ground almond, are served drenched in sweet liquid - lemon-sugar, honey, rosewater syrup. In France and Italy, more pudding-like cakes are made with finely ground semolina, also known as farina, and baked in water baths. Served with caramel of fruit, they make fine summer desserts.
Tiny oyster growing operations are feeding New York's massive shellfish habit.
At "flavor tripping" parties, guests nibble miracle fruit, which turns sour flavors sweet. Vinegar becomes, for an hour or so, as sweet as apple juice; unadorned chevre turns into cheesecake.
Once considered bland, ricotta is taking center stage.
Eric Asimov, our wine and liquor critic, considers bitters.
Meet the contenders for New York's best sandwich: the Moroccan merguez sausage on grilled bread; the cemita poblana with pork butt al pastor; the pressed potato knish; the braised beef-stuffed shao bing; the Benny Mac - a chicken cutlet sandwich with macaroni and cheese and bacon; chili mackerel on a fluffy bun; a cilantro-spiced falafel.
Pollsters are now looking at how consumer behavior, including eating, affects voter choice. Dr. Pepper is for Republicans, Sprite is for Democrats. Clinton supporters snack on Fig Newtons, McCain fans on stuffed-crust pizza. While some results are weird, others are predictable - Whole Foods is a dead giveaway of liberal orientation.
Cookbook author Susie Fishbein is providing observant Jews with gourmet Passover recipes, including turmeric, tomato and spinach matzoh balls.
**#!*@! souffle! *$*#*!* emulsification! Chefs like to curse in the kitchen. Really.
Eric Asimov talks kosher wine - you don't have to be Jewish to like them.
The Minimalist does Hangtown Fry - eggs, bacon and...oysters.
Cakes masquerading as muffins make breakfast less guilty. Includes a recipe for spicy ginger muffins with currants and toasted pecans.
Food, or lack thereof, in Holocaust concentrations camps is still a taboo subject for survivors, writes Jewish cooking maven Joan Nathan.
Cindy McCain shares her favorite family recipes. Except they were ripped off from the Food Network. A rogue intern is apparently to blame.
Wine bars are multiplying in New York like Starbucks circa 1997, and they've got good food too! Is this really new?
Increasingly discriminating undergrads are prompting college dining halls to revamp their menus, offering sophisticated choices like curried butternut squash soup and à la carte lobsters. I knew I should have deferred a couple years!
Everyone's going crazy for cachaça, a Brazilian sugar cane liquor.
Traditional French food is back at upscale New York restaurants. Hello again, pâté en croûte.
Time Out New York has just done something a bit unusual. They have turned the tables on New York's critics and have given them reviews using a panel of distinguished experts in each of the various fields covered. Of course, at Slashfood, we're more interested in what they thought of NY's finest food critics, than of the art or theater reviewers. All were scored on a scale from 1 to 5 in the following categories: Knowledge, Style, Taste, Accessibility and Influence. Those scores were then averaged to reach a final score. A star rating might have been a little more appropriate, but this seems like a balanced way to quantify their performances.
Topping their list with a score of 4.08 is Peter Meehan, from the New York Times. He is usually featured in the "$25 and Under" column. His reviews were described as "smart, witty and very sensible...fair and almost always [place] the consumer first." Number two, with a score of 3.78 is Steve Cuozzo, from the New York Post. "Entertaining as hell to read... it's just too bad that he works for the least credible outlet in town." The other reviewers reviewed were: Adam Platt, multiple publications, 3.72 (No class at all: The words subtle and elegant are not in his vocabulary."); Irene Sax, NY Daily News, 3.68 ("The best cheap-eats columnist ever."); Frank Bruni, The New York Times, 3.64 ("Bruni is the George Bush of restaurant reviewers: He's a little man in a big job who got lucky but has never acknowledged the need to learn on this big job.... He's got an unfortunate, clear bias toward the Italian palate, and it shows in print."); Robert Sietsema, The Village Voice, 3.4 ("A joke."); Moira Hodgson, New York Observer, 3.3 ("stylish and congenial")
Time Out New York has just done something a bit unusual. They have turned the tables on New York's critics and have given them reviews using a panel of distinguished experts in each of the various fields covered. Of course, at Slashfood, we're more interested in what they thought of NY's finest food critics, than of the art or theater reviewers. All were scored on a scale from 1 to 5 in the following categories: Knowledge, Style, Taste, Accessibility and Influence. Those scores were then averaged to reach a final score. A star rating might have been a little more appropriate, but this seems like a balanced way to quantify their performances.
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