Bill Addison visits 85 taquerias in 10 weeks and picks the best of the burrito bunch. He also awards 1½ stars to Moki's Sushi and Pacific Grill (*½). Royal Cafe in Albany gets two stars (**) for their breakfast, lunch, and kitsch. Also getting two stars (**) is Baker Street Bistro.

Bottarga, cured roe sacs of gray mullet or tuna, are a finishing touch to Salad of Zolfini Beans, Dry-Farmed Tomatoes, Celery & Bottarga. The Roving Feast adds accents to Tomato-Ginger Concasse and Pears Poached with Lemongrass & Lime.The Working Cook turns the day upsaide down with Goat Cheese Pizza with Peppers & Artichokes and Corn Griddle Cakes with Smoked Salmon, Tomatoes & Cream for dinner.

With childhood obesity getting out of hand and food allergies becoming more severe, kids' school lunches require careful attention. If you're packing it to go, try: Corkscrew Pasta Salad with Edamame, Red Peppers & Crunchy Noodles, Mini Pita Pizzas, Quinoa for Kids, Sweet Potato Burritos, Chicken Nachos and Chunky Salsa Base to go with the nachos or burritos.

Lunch-to-go isn't just for back-to-school. Adults pack lunches to take to work: Sesame Soba Noodles with Tofu and Spinach, Chicken and Rice PIlaf with Tomatoes, Chilled Artichoke with Homemade Tartar Sauce, Thai-inspired Noodle & Vegetable Salad, and Pan Bagnat.

If you'd rather go out for an hour during lunch, pick from Amanda Berne's fairly long list of favorite lunch spots around the city.

The Working Cook makes Roasted Chicken with Salsa & Poblano-Corn Hash and Salmon with Grilled Romaine & Romas, while the Roving Feast goes to Sacramento and makes Pasta with Salsa Cruda.

It's too hot for the oven, and you don't necessarily want to grill everything all the time, so Georgeanne Brennan shares a few stove-top recipes, just for summer: Pan-Fried Cube Steak with Gravy, Sauteed Corn, Zucchini & Hungarian Wax Peppers, Chilled Melon Soup with Lavender, Chicken & Celery Salad, Chicken with Heirloom Tomatoes & Olives, Duck Breast Glazed with Lavender Honey, Sauteed Plums for Ice Cream or Pound Cake, Turkey Cutlets with Green Peppercorn Pan Sauce, and Lentil & Smoked Duck Breast Salad.

Out on the dining scene, Joy Luck in San Mateo receives two stars (**).

This week, the feature story is not on wine, but cocktails. Rather than relying on the standard, vodka, Bay Area bartenders are turning to artisan tequilas, locally brewed and Mexican beers, rum and other exotic spirits. There are recipes for Neptune's Garden, Leilani Volcano, China Clipper, Coconut Batido, Basil Gimlet. Watermelmon Margarita, and Sidewinder's Fang.

The Chronicle's Wine Selection of the Week is Pinot Noir, about half of which are from the Santa Cruz Mountains, the other half from the Central Coast.The opt of their favorites is 2004 Carmel Road Monterey Pinot Noir. The Bargain selections are light, summery whites, including a sparkling wine, NV Lorikeet South Eastern Australia Brut.

Black Bean Spareribs pair well with the Pinot Noir selection, and the Cheese Course of the Week is a buffalo-milk mozzarella, Bubalus Bubalis.

When is a tomato not a tomato? When it's an heirloom and goes by its own name, like "Brandywine" and Marvel "Stripe." Recipes are for: Cavatelli with Cranberry Beans, Warm Spinach Salad with Bacon & Potatoes, Bruschetta With Fresh Ricotta & Cherry Tomatoes, and Sliced Heirloom Tomatoes with Buttermilk Dressing.

The Grande Dame of Mexican cuisine, Diana Kennedy, shares recipes for Tamales Cernidos con Rajas y Queso (Tamales filled with Poblanos & Cheese) as well as an accompanying Salsa Verde.

Edna Lewis' classic The Taste of Country Cooking has been reissued, Scala's Bistro in Union Square has re-opened with a new look and a new menu, Etoile, Domaine Chandon's restaurant has reopened, and Bistro 1689 in a new French-California place in Noe Valley.

Chef Ann Cooper has been commissioned by the Chez Panisse Foundation to transform the Berkeley Public Schools' school lunches.

In the kitchen, frozen puf pastry serves as a suitable shortcut to an Apple, Rhubarb,and Raspberry Galette. A look at some of the new cookbooks offer some recipes. From chef Joyce Goldstein's Antipasti, there is a Meat-filled Omelet Roll, Glazed Lemon-Sour Cream Cake comes from The New California Cook, Chocolate-Soy Milk Frozen Pops from a Passion for Ice Cream, Country-style Onion and Potato Pie from Big Sky Cooking, and Toblerone Milk Chocolate Mousse from Maida Heatter's Book of Great Chocolate Desserts.

Sugo, a trattoria in Petaluma, receives two stars (**).

Bret Lopez names his Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon "Scarecrow" in honor of his grandfather Joseph Judson Cohn, who oversaw production of "The Wizard of Oz" as an executive at Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer Studios. Cohn planted the original vineyard that supplies the grape for the wine.

The weekly selections are summery rosé in wines, with a recipe for a Lightly Curried Pasta Salad to pair, six-months-aged Laura Chenel's Goat Tomme in cheese, and Golden Rye Fizz in cocktails.

Gratins are in the kitchen, with recipes for both sweet, like Raspberry & Blackberry Gratin with Cointreau, and savory like Gratin of Spring Vegetables and Lamb with Herbed Potatoes.

Marlena Spieler looks to Greece for artichoke inspiration and comes up with Saganaki me Anginares.

Tara Duggan, a columnist for the Chronicle, has a new cookbook aimed at the busy working person, with recipes like Pizza with Arugula and Prosciutto, Chicken Breasts with Sweet Potato Fries, and Microwave-steamed Sea Bass with Asparagus and Black Bean Sauce.

With Mother's Day coming up this weekend, the San Francisco Chronicle takes a look at baking the perfect scone, perfect for serving to Mom in bed on Sunday morning. There are recipes for Pecan Ginger, Cheese Board Corn Cherry, Blueberry Pecan from Noe Valley Bakery, and Scottish Scones, as well as a listing of Bay Area places if you'd rather leave the baking to a pro. But the best thing is the illustrated step-by-step guide.

If you trust your Mom with a tray of hot, cooked food instead of a simple scone, try eggs, made fancy in a mussel and chive omelet.

Palermo in Menlo Park receives two stars (**) all around for its Sicilian food, service, and atmosphere. Tomato with white anchovies sounds like the best thing to me.

I'm going to cheat on my own city, Los Angeles, for a moment, and wax poetic about how much I love not only the Bay Area restaurant and dining landscape, but how well the media there covers it. Every year, the Dining section of the San Francisco Chronicle compiles a list of their Top 100 restaurants in the Bay area, and this week, they have released their list for 2006. The restaurants aren't ranked, but listed geographically, covering San Francisco, Berkeley/Oakland, the North Bay, and the Peninsula, and isn't simply a list of the top most expensive, high-end restaurarants. Michael Bauer, the Chronicle's restaurant critic, has even included a podcast of how they went about choosing the 100. 

The San Francisco Food Chronicle's Food and Dining section has a story on cupcakes today, and though we all do love the things, it's hard to get excited when it doesn't seem that there is anything really new. Except today, with a recipe for Samoas Cupcakes, originally created by SF food blogger, ChockyLit.

The cupcakes don't use Samoas cookies, so there's no need to track down your favorite little Girl Scout. The brown suagr/butter cupcakes  that have a chocolate ganache filling and a caramelized coconut frosting just look and taste like the decadent chocolatey, caramel-y, coconutty cookie.

Diner Dash 2 is the follow-up to the popular online computer game Diner Dash, set in San Francisco. In the original game, you control the character Flo as she opens and runs her diner business, doing everything from waiting tables to checking the books at night. In the new Diner Dash 2, Flo branches out and helps her friends save their restaurants from an evil corporation. The brightly colored game, put out by the company PlayFirst, is relatively simple when compared to some of the fantastically complicated, graphic-heavy role playing games that are released for systems like X-box and, aside from the occasionally irate customer, the game is violence free. It is realistic, though, and all the functions of running and operating real diners can happen at any time - from placating impatient customers to getting good tips. Diner Dash 1 and 2 are marketed slightly more towards women than the average computer game and, perhaps not surprisingly, the strategy is working and more women are playing. Some of the biggest growth can be seen in the 35 women's demographic, who don't talk about their gaming habits much, but still turn to the 'net for a 20 minute break from work.