All good meals must eventually come to an end. And so it is that Gael Greene, the New York Magazine critic who shaped the taste of a generation of New York foodies, has been sacked.
Greene, now in her mid-'70s, was hired by by Clay Felker in 1968 to be the restaurant critic of his just launched New York Magazine. According to the New York Times, "It was as if New York magazine had found its own version of Colette when it came to food. She created an entirely fresh new voice, one that has never staled."
True, she dallied with more than one celebrity chef. And although that should have presented a grave conflict of interest, Greene embraced the frisson by working it into her copy. Her 1977 review of Le Cirque was deliciously titled, I Love Le Cirque, but Can I Be Trusted?" and let her readers into her fling with chef de cuisine Jean-Louis Todeschini. Her readers loved it.
Over the course of her long career, Greene could be thought of as a early prototype of Carrie Bradshaw: eating and sleeping her way through 70's-80's era New York City. Her 2006 book "Insatiable: Tales from a Life of Delicious Excess" goes into her sensual exploits in detail.
Although she gave up her gig as weekly chief reviewer eight years ago, Ms. Greene continued to write about food for the magazine. Her final column will run in New York's December 1 issue.
Fans of her wit, writing and legendary palate can continue to follow her musings on, where else, her own food blog: called the Insatiable Critic.
You know him as the Super-Size Me guy. Morgan Spurlock is the guy who ate nothing but McDonald's for 30 days and lived to tell about it in a movie. New York Magazine's food blog, Grub Street, followed the director, now several years later (after a full-recovery?) and looking a little scruffier, for a few days to see how the man eats. He hasn't eaten a Big Mac since the movie, but in the past week, he did dine at Thomas Keller's Per Se, which sounds just as belly-busting as 30 days of fast food.
While we're all busily listing the best restaurants we've eaten at in the last year, Adam Platt, from New York Magazine, already has a list put together of where to eat in New York during the next one. He gives his picks for the best eateries in fifteen different categories: Vegas on the Hudson (Buddakan, Del Posto), The Out-of-Towners (L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon), Neighborhood Chic (The Little Owl), Haute Italian (Café Boulud), Haute Barnyard (Telepan), Real Barnyard (Daisy May's BBQ USA), Gourmet Bar Food (Degustation), Makeover Madness (Tocqueville), Designer Steaks (Craftsteak), Nightclub Chinese (Shun Lee West), The Great Lunch (Adrienne's Pizza Bar), Brooklyn Ramble (The Farm on Adderley), Breakfast Ramble (Zucco: Le French Diner), Cocktail Madness (Employees Only), Dessert (Russian Tea Room, Pinkberry and Chikalicious) . And there are many more listed in each category!
As someone whose second meal yesterday was a late supper at a local sushi bar, preceded by a lunch of a succulent chicken shawarma platter chock full of bits of crunchy skin, the very idea of a near-starvation diet that may increase longevity engenders nothing less than sheer horror.
Adherents of Calorie Restriction follow a diet that leaves their bodies close to starvation in the hopes that such a regimen will radically increase their life span. Or so I learned yesterday after reading a fascinating article about it in this month's New YorkMagazine.
The author, Julian Dibbell, gives the movement a fair shake. He cites scientific evidence that curtailing caloric intake in mice increases their life span 50 percent. He also makes what I consider a monumental sacrifice by toeing the CR line for two months.
New York Magazine recently had chef Masayoshi "Masa" Takayama review 10 santoku knives. Takayama is the namesake of the much talked about, high-dollar sushi restaurant Masa in New York City. It follows that he'd be able to give some opinions on Japanese-style chef's knives. At the top of the list was the Shun Classic 6.5" knife (right), which NYM says retails for around $95. At the bottom was the Rachel Ray Füri Coppertail 7", for around $70. (It's worth mentioned that Shun has a line of knives endorsed by Alton Brown.) In between were offerings from J.A. Henkels, Global, OXO and Wüstoff, among others. Masa tested the knives without sharpening them, using them to chop onions, boneless chicken and parsley. He then tested them as he tests his own knives, by seeing how well they cut through a sheet of parchment paper.
Just in time for Easter, New York magazine offers a
breakdown of all the varieties of lamb, providing details on the difference between Colorado and Australian lamb,
for example. The article also offers up a recipe for Rack of Lamb with a Shallot Puree Chili
Crumbs Crust. If you want more lamb recipes, check out the comprehensive list at web site Recipe Hound.
Guide to Differences in Lamb
Colorado: Fed a mixture of grass and grain; lambs are larger; richer, more fatty meat.
This is the season for egg nog (I just bought some this weekend, actually). It's probably good
that we only drink the stuff one month out of the year. It's not exactly a health food.
New York mag taste tests a bunch of store-bought egg nogs and
gives the results. I'll leave the best for you to see when you click, but I will say Ronnybrook, Silk Soy Nog and
Horizon get a big thumbs down. (Hey, no Hood egg nog? Maybe it's a regional thing - I live near Boston - but I think it
tastes great!)
Waterfront Ale House's Sam Barbieri is the judge, and he gives his recipe for the ultimate eggnog.
(Side note: is egg nog one word or two? I see it both ways everywhere; in fact, it's both ways on the cartons shown in
the pics in this article. Hmmm...)