'Antojitos: Festive and Flavorful Mexican Small Plates'
by Barbara Sibley and Margaritte Malfy with Mary Goodbody
Photography by Lucy Schaeffer Ten Speed Press -- 2009 Buy it on Amazon
Antojitos, as Barbara Sibley and Margaritte Malfy explain in their book of the same name, are small bites sometimes eaten as appetizers in Mexican cuisine and sometime just downed as a street snack to satisfy between-meals hunger pangs.
The owners of New York City's La Palapa have written a book that covers all manner of these spicy snacks -- from empanadas and tacos to ceviches and mole. Along the way, they give brief stories about the dishes as well as menus perfect for any fiesta, and colorful pages filled with images of Loteria cards and stock Mexican art that add a whimsical touch to the cookbook.
See what we tested and whether it's worth buying after the jump.
These gorgeous, golden-brown churros look so enticing we can practically feel their crinkly, sugar-studded skins melting on our tongues. Though their shape deviates from that of tubular churros -- traditional Mexican treats of deep-fried dough rolled in cinnamon and sugar -- we can't really say that we care. What matters is that they look sweet, crunchy goodness personified ... or like history's most gloriously demonic matzoh balls.
The Amateur Gourmet's Adam Roberts describes these beauties as "The Churros That Saved The Dinner Party." We think he's being too modest. These look like the churros that could save the world, or at least a small principality.
There are many dishes in which the sauce can overwhelm the rest of the meal. But mole is not just a sauce; it's also the focal point of the dish. The meat that accompanies the mole plays a secondary role. Mole consists of nuts, chilies, and spices that are toasted and ground to release their spicy-sweet aroma. Mole poblano from the state of Puebla is also made with chocolate. Hence, its nickname chocolate sauce.
The word "mole" derives from the Náhuatl (language that dates back to the Aztecs) word "molli". The process of making mole is lengthy and it usually involves toasting ingredients, slow-roasting, pureeing, and frying fresh herbs. But, at the end, you have a dish full of deliciously complex tastes, a rollercoaster of flavors. And, if you're looking for the most thrilling gastronomic ride, head to the city of Oaxaca, known as the "Land of Seven Moles."
In Zarela Martinez's book "Food & Life of Oaxaca", renowned Mexican chef shares an incredible recipe for Teotitlan-style black mole. Another recipe to try out is turkey enchiladas with mole sauce. I have just recently been exposed to this fascinating sauce, and I cannot stop thinking about its richness and the fact that there are so many more for versions for me to try.
I'm posting images of sausage counters the world over each weeknight (and occasionally weekend) witching hour (until I run out), so please use the comments section to post links to your Flickr or personal site faves, and perhaps you'll see 'em posted here late some evening.
But Chipotle didn't just blend in with the lot of them. They had a twist. Chipotle went beyond Baja Fresh's
menu of no microwave ovens nor can openers, and served a very simple menu, with ingredients in front of you, sort
of like a hybrid of In n Out's minimalistic menu and Subway sandwich artistry before your eyes. I went a Chipotle kick
for about six months, but got bored a little with a rather narrow menu.
Now, the business, which launched in 1993, has just gone public, and the founder, Steve Ells, has found himself
worth $44 million (share prices doubled on IPO day). Ells originally thought the fast-food burrito place
would be the "cash cow" to fund his dream of opening a high-end restaurant after studying at the CIA and
cooking at Stars in San Francisco. Ha. He could probably buy a restaurant or a half-dozen now.
Who knew a little dried pepper could be worth $44 million?
"Drupe" is the botanical term for a fruit with an
exocarp and fleshy mesocarp surrounding a hardened endocarp that protects a seed inside. In other words, a drupe is a
stone fruit. Peaches, nectarines, plums.
But be not mistaken, not all fruits that have a hard center and a fleshy outside are drupes, and fruits
that you'd never guess were drupes, in fact, are. I thought I was brilliant when I thought an avocado was a drupe because technically, an avocado is a fruit, but
it's not a drupe. An avocado is a berry. But there are berries that are really drupes. Blackberries
and raspberries, also known as bramblefruits, are aggregates of little drupelets.
Dice a couple of mangoes, which is a drupe, a couple of avocadoes, which is a
berry, a couple of tomatoes (also a berry) and toss it with cut grilled shrimp, a squeeze of
lime juice, minced garlic, salt, and pepper. If you
are so inclined, add a splash of tequila. Serve with tortilla chips, and I guess if
you think about it, you're eating one hell of a fruit cocktail!