"Lumiere" news and stories

• Normand Laprise urges cooks to not ignore the truffle in hard times -- suggesting how far an ounce can go -- from flavoring your in-shell eggs, to truffle ice cream (recipe included), scrambled eggs, risotto, and bread with a truffle center.
• February is the perfect time to indulge in bitter-lettuce salads, like a Simple Winter Salad of radicchio, watercress, frisee, and endives.
• Daniel Boulud opens DB Bistro Moderne in Vancouver, offering freshly ground burgers, a refusal to massacre meat to well done, and delicious and warm Madeleines -- plus the new Lumière restaurant.
• There's little as delicious as a strong beer, and Stephen Beaumont runs through the regions and beers that offer strong flavor in your brew.
• A look into Jean-Georges Vongerichten's new Vancouver restaurant and his in-kitchen process.
• Eating in the Year of the Ox, recipes for: Barbecue Pork, Sesame-Hoisin Sauce, Potstickers, Ginger Vinegar Dipping Sauce, Shrimp Dumplings, Salmon Spring Rolls, Spiced Soy Dipping Sauce, and Stir-Fried Noodles with Duck

Interesting piece over at The Boston Phoenix. The writer asks several chefs what dish they order in a restaurant to see if the kitchen knows what it's doing. That one meal that you would judge the entire restaurant by.

Rialto chef Jody Adams orders a simple pasta dish, because she says that if a restaurant can screw that up, then they'll probably screw up a more complex meal. Michael Schlow (who is chef at two Boston restaurants, Radius and Via Matta), has a different dish for each type of restaurant. At Japanese restaurants, it's the rice. At steak houses, he goes by the side dishes and the wedge salad (what the heck is a wedge salad?). Michael Leviton over at Lumiere goes by the simple dishes at Asian restaurants: Shrimp and broccoli, drunken pasta, and for Italian restaurants it's the risotto.

I'll have to agree with the author of the article and say I often go by the chicken dishes, since they're a pretty basic dish, and I also go by the salads. But then again, I've had some awful meals at some restaurants where everything else I've had is first-rate, so I go back. Readers, how do you judge restaurants overall?