Despite New York's deli domination -- and the alarm of passionate "Seinfeld" enthusiasts -- "Save the Deli" author David Sax believes Los Angeles to be the true deli capital of the U.S.
"Top Chef" finalist Stephan Richter opens the "smart and cheeky" Stefan's at L.A. Farm restaurant in Santa Monica.
The Times marvels at the jarringly whimsical shape -- and "powerfully aromatic" flavor -- of the "Buddha's hand" fruit, and praises ragu as "fall food as its best: slow cooking that develops deep, harmonic flavors."
A Los Angeles food club has been meeting monthly for a whopping 45 years.
An ode to the breaded goodness of pork schnitzel, plus tons of good cooking tips.
Lost Coast Brewing adds to its proliferation of fruity brews with a Tangerine Wheat Beer, a beverage primed to be "a charming outdoor sipper."
The delicious aspects of Chinese Hunan cooking and a positive review of Xiang Wei Lou, a "plain but spiffy café" in San Gabriel, Calif.
This year's Anatolian Cultures & Food Festival boasted amazing, sticky dondurma ice cream, full-scale structural reproductions and even a Turkish quesadilla.
Writer Dan Neil weighs in on Carl's Jr.'s sexy Padma Lakshmi commercial and the politics of mixing sex and fast food.
A brief review for Costa Mesa's Pizzeria Ortica, which offers unusual fare like house-cured yellowtail and milk-braised Kurobuta pork short ribs ... plus a more detailed review by critic Irene Virbila.
Here's what's cooking in the Los Angeles Times Food Section today: What's hot, what's not: Russ Parsons and Amy Scattergood weigh in on what a kitchen essential really is.
Celebrity chefs will cut some costs to keep their restaurants afloat in this economy. But cutting quality remains verboten.
Spice your own: Combine spices to create something special...and uniquely you.
Yesterday the Los Angeles Times announced the results of a recent taste test of imported Italian spaghetti. The paper's five-person panel sampled 16 brands. I didn't even know there were 16 brands of imported Italian pasta to begin with. I should start paying more attention when I'm browsing the aisles of the grosseria.
The panel chose spaghetti because it was the one shape available from every pasta maker. During the blind taste test, they evaluated the spaghetti for texture, mouth-feel, intrinsic flavor and ability to deliver flavor. The flavor delivered, in this case, was a fruity olive oil, which the panel's leader felt was a good gauge as to how the spaghetti would also carry the flavor of a sauce.
The winner, as you know by now, was Latini spaghetti, an artisanal pasta from Marche. What's interesting to me about the results is that the less expensive Latini in the red box beat out the company's top-shelf variety, Latini Senatore Cappelli spaghetti, which came in sixth.
Maraschino
liqueur is a clear, slightly biting drink that's fine to sip, but works wonders as a secret ingredient in
cocktails, which you can learn to shake just
right with a few tips. And since it's the Golden Age of the Cocktail, now you can visit a
museum.
The Wine of
the Week is 2004 Albarino Pedralonga from Spanish Basque country. It's "crisp and minerally" and
pairs well with shellfish, peel 'n' eat shrimp, seafood paella, light summer dishes. At $19 a bottle, it pairs well
with my bank account, too.
Out on the dining scene, SIV is none too pleased with Il Sole Ristorante
on Sunset Strip. One star (*) seems generous after she remarks that Il Sole is "remarkably
blasé," and "that people would fork over this kind of money for this kind of cooking night after night
defies common sense."
Regina Schrambling extols the
virtues of savoy cabbage, "cabbage straight out of finishing school," with recipes for Braised
Savoy Cabbage with Anchovies, Pizzocheri (a pasta dish), and Sausage-stuffed Savoy Cabbage.
A food publication would lose its cred if it didn't do a feature on
the upcoming Mardi Gras celebration next Tuesday. Corie Brown shares two recipes
for gumbo, one that uses
duck! as well as a list of Los
Angeles resources for specialty ingredients like crawfish: Bristol Farms, Fish King Seafood, New Orleans Fish
Market, and Santa Monica Seafood. If you're shy about playing with live crutacens at home, you can look for gumbo at a
few Creole
restaurants in LA.
Truffles a little too high-brow? The Trails is a
snack shack in Griffith Park that serves up meat pies, and what looks to me like the winner, and avocado sandwich.
Everything under $5.
Tangerine, mandarin orange, or a specific variety like the Clementine, Russ Parsons looks at the teeny cousin of
the orange with something as luscious as a mandarin parfait
with candied ginger.
Charles Perry encourages us to curl up in front of the fireplace with dark, rich, creamy...hot chocolate? Coffee?
No and no. Beer. It's a long and loving
look at stouts.
Some local food
blogs get a nod for having "hyper-focus" on bacon or pho or deep-end dining. Hooray for the LA Times
playing nicely with the food blogosphere!
BBC Cafe
is a fairly new Moroccan restaurant in Beverly Hills. Susan La Tempa calls it "charming" and
"quirky" but when I use my secret decoder ring, translates to uneven service with attitude and misleading
signs. Thats okay though, it's Moroccan. And organic. And kosher. You gotta love that.